Dinner last night and a feature article in last month’s Saveur magazine got me thinking about artichokes. Possibly the most unfriendly wine food in the world, but a definite harbinger of spring, I love 'em.
I took baby artichokes last night, cleaned them up, skewered them, and grilled over hardwood with just a little olive oil and sea salt. Next weekend I’ll take on some full size Globes and either stuff them or try a grill method I’ve read about where you flatten par cooked artichokes out and pan grill them al mattone or weighted with a brick.
What do you do with yours and what do you dare drink with them?
For a wine pairing I like sauvignon blanc, generally something South African like Southern Right or Mulderbosch.
Whole artichokes I prefer steamed and eaten with the leaves and heart dipped in garlic-herb butter. I use frozen baby artichokes in veal and lamb shank preparations, I use artichoke hearts in olive oil on pizza.
Years ago I regularly made a Chicken Marsala, using chicken legs, tomatoes, baby artichokes, onions and seasonings braised in chicken stock and Marsala wine.
I always thought that honor belonged to another spring crop - asparagus.
In my opinion, nothing beats grilled 'chokes - love the combination of smoke and veggie essence. I’m going to lift a play from you and try the al mattone preparation - I think that could be awesome. We typically pair them with kabinett reisling - which seems to go with everything short of elk jerky (except asparagus).
Angel Hair Pasta with Sun Dried Tomatoes, Artichoke Hearts, Capers and Garlic topped with sauteed shrimp.
Steamed with the leaves and do like every other kid does in France: take a little piece of bread to put under the top of your plate to tilt it, and at the bottom of the plate put some wine vinegar (not some of that balsamico crap), your preferred oil, salt, pepper, whip it with a fork gently (it’s a simplified vinaigrette) and dip. Yummy!
But yes for me asparagus is the real spring food, especially after witnessing the asparagus craze going on every spring in Germany.
BTW for the record the greatest French comedian had a funny joke about artichoke - “my father said artichoke is the best food for the poor - the only food where there’s more left in your plate when you finish than when you started!”
I also grill them. Cut in 1/2, sprinkle with S&P, olive oil and a bit of garlic powder. Grill face down for about 15 minutes, turn over, put in 1 TBSP of butter in each 1/2, grill another 15 minutes. Serve.
Goes well with many whites and a few smokier new world pinots.