Family Winemakers

WINE TALK
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The Family Winemakers Tasting was held at Fort Mason, in San Francisco yesterday and we went down to see what it’s all about. I don’t think I should have gone – nothing like being reminded of how much competition there is in this business.

Nonetheless, several wines made an impression:

The 2001 Corison, Cabernet Sauvignon is a pretty wine and so unlike most of its Napa cab. peers(?) as to be remarkable. For those who have it in the cellar, this was decanted most of the day and never lost a thing.

The vineyard designated pinots from Hartford Family (a/k/a Hartford Court) were head and shoulders more intense and substantive than any others I tried. Excellent grip and length without drying tannins. Pricey, to be sure, but certainly candidates for being worth it.

Lagier Meredith is now making mondeuse (rouge); it’s an amplified version of the Savoy wines with a ripe, rich and pretty well balanced delivery that is full of flavor and unique, as far as I know, in the country. Forty-five cases produced and will probably sell for $45; not for everyone but I like something that’s different and this is.

The 2007 Westerhold Family syrah is now fulfilling its promise as a fine and integrated Bennett Valley syrah. No oak showing and a suppleness that has only come with time in the bottle. Fine wine.

Grey Stack’s sauvignon blanc (the Italian clone) is spectacular; its rich without being cloying, has plenty of cut and the flavors are juicy without going all tropical. Very nice but sold out.

The dry riesling from Mike Dasche is not to be missed. More complex then I would ever have expected and really well made. I tried several other rieslings but none (not even Navarro’s) even came close. $20, btw.

Last year I tried Ladd Cellars pinot from the Abigail vineyard on the Sonoma Coast and was impressed by its lithe, graceful delivery. This year, again, it led the way as a feminine, precise pinot. A bargain at $36.

Lots of nice folks but none I enjoyed talking to more than Barbara Richards of Paloma. We have known each other a long time now and chatting with her is a breath of fresh air whether it’s in the Ft. Mason pavilion or on her back porch over looking Napa Valley.
I was actually thinking that I might miss this event next year; walking and standing on concrete for 5 hours isn’t as easy as it used to be. But then I’d miss Barb and that would be unthinkable.

Best, Jim

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Sorry I missed bumping into you yesterday, Jim - would have been nice to see you. I missed out on Corison and Hartford (both on my list to visit but way too many wineries and too little time) but tasted all the other wines you mention and concur on your notes. Enjoyed the Chester’s Anvil wines that Carol Meredith poured as well. And looking through my notes, there were other very nice wines from Jemrose, Alder Springs, Ispiri, Mt. Eden, Calera, Sojourn, Benovia, Cartograph, Vellum, Violet Green, Demetria, and Tablas Creek among others.

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I enjoyed the event, and though I attacked it in a very regimented manner, it was very educational.

Cabs- I enjoyed thomas’s black sears, and wallis wines, as well as Ladera svd. The parallel '08’s were great and the napa is a great qpr. Kelleher and bouncristiani were nice but ? qpr for me. Ramey, kennen, kenefick and carter all decent in a crowded market sector. The paloma merlot and the pride as well are always ones the wife likes alot.

Syrahs- I feel like the fast paced nature of these tastings is least friendly to syrah. Alot of these seemed closed to me, and tasting some that i have experience with confirmed this condition. Westerhold stood out, enough to make me carry it around in the wifes glass for 30 mins.

Pinots- I missed hartford though it was on my list, Benovia ( best i’ve had from them), pisoni/lucia, littorai, mt. eden, clos pepe ( needs time),
sojourn, and a nice but ponderously priced clouds rest. I also enjoyed ladd, and harrington . Calera also stood out for sheer uniqueness and the svd’s were a leap above the central coast. The melville estate was also a decent qpr and a good representation of the santa rita hills.

So much wine so little time…

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Jim and/or Ken – To the extent that Carole Meredith was pouring a mondeuse, was it actually labelled as Lagier Meredith, or as Chester’s Anvil? Just curious.

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Nice to know Barbara is doing well. She is an exceptional lady.

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Lagier Meredith, I believe. But the background of the label was a different color so not an identical label - just in format.
Best, jim

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Paul,
Visit soon.
For both our sakes.
Best, jim

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Corey,

Westerhold would be a well known winery if it didn’t have to overcome it’s winemakers reputation and behavior.

Tu amigo,
Russell Bevan

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I went to this event on Sunday, and probably didn’t hit 10% of the wineries there. Some interesting highlights were Ladd Cellars, I found some of the most balanced Pinots there; I also enjoyed Dragonette. The Lagier-Meredith Syrahs were outstanding, as were Amapola Creek’s (made by Dick Arrowood). Alder Springs Vineyard introduces a winery of the same name, with a Syrah made by Pax, that was priced really decently and may appeal for fans of the “old” Pax. Will Bucklin brought the best zins as well as an interesting Grenache. Tablas Creek poured some fantastic wines, the '09 Esperit showed powerful, albeit closed and tannic, and the Patelin Blanc was my favorite white QPR.

The Mondeuse was a labeled Lagier Meredith, but it was in a differently-shaped bottle which Carole indicated this represented a barrel sample.

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russell- he was there, surprised he didn’t get kicked out… haha do you guys take visitors over there? flirtysmile

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Het Larry,
What did you think about the shape of that bottle?
I ask because I thought it was really eye-catching and sort of old school.
Best, Jim

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Hey Jim,
Nice little report. I was helping Carole pour, but must have stepped away when you came by. The Mondeuse is an estate wine, planted where they ripped out a small block of syrah right next to the house. It, and all the Chester’s Anvil wines were barrel samples, so Carole used lab screwcap bottles (you wouldn’t believe how many people stopped just because of the bottles, I think they should actually use those for the final product :wink:

The Mondeuse is definitely an interesting wine! Shows some of the same character as Syrah, but I found more mulberry, anise, and dried herbs, along with the typical syrah lushness and spice. Only other Mondeuse I’ve had from California was one made by Mike Officer, though I’m not sure where that vineyard is.

BTW, the upcoming release of Chester’s Anvil wines have some beauties, particularly Malbec, Gretna Green (All Rousanne this year), and Zin.

Cheers!

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I liked the bottle and I agree, old-school. I’m not actually all that romantic about bottles, as long as they fit in my racking I’m good.

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Hi Jim,

I believe that Hartford Family is part of the Jess Jackson group.
I wonder how that fits in with the “Family Winemakers” theme ?

Pat

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I think you are right and I don’t understand how it could.
But the wines were superb.
Best, jim

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Jackson Family Wines is a privately held company and now owned by his wife Barbara Banke and various members of the family including Don Hartford of Hartford Estate who was his son in law. It is definitely a family owned business albeit a very, very large one. I think its a good thing that they do not discriminate on size because when the Cowan brand of wines grows to over $1,000,000,000 they can still participate in the Family Winemakers event. [cheers.gif]

BTW glad to see the Hartford Wines were tasting so good. I loved the wines when Mike Sullivan was winemaker. Need to try them again.

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Wasn’t Jess Jackson one of the Founders of Family Winemakers?

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He might very well have been. They had a large photo of him in remembrance at the entrance to the event.

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The Carlisle Mondeuse is from Two Acres as far as I recall. I still have two bottles left the '00 and '03 (last released vintage) but it is hard finding the right time to drink these.

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Jim,
I think Jeff Stewart (formerly of La Crema) has now taken over, although I don’t know when that happened.

BTW, these wines were very impressive (and pricey) but mostly because of the potential they have rather than showing well immediately. They are quite structured with the acidity obvious (but not unbalanced), huge grip (not drying) and length. I think these things are stuffed and, will in the long term, be exquisite examples of what the grape can do in Sonoma.
But if you want to drink them now, the decanter is your friend.
Best, jim