A recent comment got me thinking a bit. A WB’er said they’d order a cheaper cuvée along with an Echezeaux to get a read on the house style. So, which “entry-level” wines do you find mirror the expression of the top cuvées of any given maker you’re well acquainted with? To me, this is not a question that demands that a Bourgogne Blanc must reflect the taste of CBM or other rarer climats, because they obviously exist on their own merits.
Fx. to me, Jamet CdR mirrors the bigger cuvees fine.
Labet Fleur could pass for the rarer bottlings.
Chateau des Tours Grand Reserve gives an OK read on what Rayas is about.
*sorry as always if this thread already exists but I couldn’t find one.
I can’t talk about Burgundy since I’m not really a drinker but I don’t think it works with Bordeaux on the whole. As for the Loire, whether white or red, drinking entry level wines does tend to give a very good idea of what to expect with the more expensive bottles.
I think this works pretty well for Langhe Nebbiolo and higher end Barolos. I’ve bought new release LNs to get a read on (forthcoming) Barolo vintages from producers like Vajra, Vietti, Bartolo Mascarello, Trediberri, Burlotto, Fratelli Alessandria, Sandrone, and some others.
Yes that was my thought too, but many experiences in the past made me wonder a bit. I think in time a discrepancy has also happened elsewhere— there was a day too, when a Mercedes A class would be fitted with interior and engine that would give you a taste of what the overall quality was.
In recent years, for burgundy, only a Lamy Chataigniers and Lou Dumont comes to mind as entry levels overdelivering.
@Julian_Marshall Yes I agree with this. Loire producers are good with this overall. Admirable.
@R_Frankel I will consider this next time shopping. Thank you
@brodie_thomson Yes my tasting at Felton comes to mind. The ‘simple’ wine stood strong against Block 5 and 3. Donhoff and many other rieslings too speak well of what the exclusive bottlings can do. Thanks for the list.
In Montalcino, I prefer entry level Brunello’s, and even the Rosso’s, to the Riservas for many producers due to barrique use vs. big foudre’s.
Same it true often in Chianti, especially after the introduction of Grand Selectione.
In Bordeaux, the entry level’s of first growths don’t communicate to me that much.
While it’s true that if I like a wineries high end cuvee, then I’ll often like the whole line up, the reverse isn’t true for wineries that use 100% or 200% new oak on their high end wines.
As the wine ages, the fruit falls out due to oxidization and the savory notes certainly pop more. If I am awkwardly dancing in a room with 100 people and then 85 people leave, my awkward dancing will be more noticeable.
Polymerization of tannins smooths out the texture and gives a roundness (which I associate with cured bqq meat as opposed to smoked flavors).
There is also some chemical thing around “bound” aroma which release over time, but I haven’t put in the time to understand the science (maybe one of our chemists can chime in).
For me, this is all secondary development and as the CR hits really upward age these meaty notes fade to leather and truffle etc.
But they come from grape originally. rotundone / and certain volatile phenols are naturally occurring in Syrah and those things give peppery, smoky, and cured-meat aromas. Also Sulfur-containing compounds which do an umami dance (scientific term).
Actually that feels a little misleading, I believe longer macerations extract more amino acids and phenolics so that’s a wine making choice right there and not just grape related.
Oh bother, guess it’s complicated. I’ll stick with “kinda” as my answer.
Anecdotally, I had both Jamet CdR and CR 2020 two months ago and there was no smokey meaty note in the CdR.
Looking at my notes, I mostly am drinking the '21 CdR, which is more of a classic year. Rotundone survives better at lower temps (or winemaker can pick earlier to similar effect?) so I would expect to find it there
I’ve had the 2012 and 2010 CDR at around age 8 and 12 and they certainly showed a more meaty character I don’t get a lot of when they are young.
I had the 2016, 2018 and 2021 Côte-Rôtie’s at release and the meaty character was certainly not what I took most note of, but I rarely do in young Jamet (Or NR Syrah overall), thats something I’ve mostly experienced when they hit 15+.
But as you say, then maybe I just don’t notice it that much when they are younger as other notes might grab my attention.