EDITED re the 2002 CRISTAL- An epic dinner to host the Sophienwald stemware distributor for the US with 2008 Cristal and 2002 Cristal Late Release, 2017 PYCM Corton-Charlemagne and 2012 DRC Echezeaux

Almost 10 years ago, my good friend who was the CEO in charge of imports for a large wine distributor in Southern California for over 30 years, was approached by a wineglass maker from Austria to review their line and provide feedback prior to them entering the US market. They sent him a few of all of their different glasses.

When I was visiting him a few weeks later, we sampled some of the glasses with appropriate wines and were quite surprised and impressed as to how exceptional they were with only a couple of tweaks to recommend.

We were also impressed that these were elegant mouth blown, unleaded crystal, had wide bases and narrow stems plus having adequate size and shape with a low equator to allow for the more air exposure from the increased surface area and at the same time funnel the aromas for a optimal sensory experience.

The top Zalto line was the only one I could think of that would be close enough in quality and as it has turned out, it’s only the Zalto Burgundy stem that may be as good IMHO. The Sophienwald Grand Cru champagne stems far exceeded any other and the white and red wine stems are top notch. All provide a lightweight, feel good, hand held experience and I learned to safely hand wash each one properly in hot water although other people have placed them in dishwashers designed to handle such glasses gently.

Sophienwald is distributed in the US by a couple who live in Switzerland. {https://www.theperfect.glass/ } I immediately reached out to them and once they were set up to deliver, I ordered some glasses which I now have built up to having 8 of every type of wine glass they make replacing all of the Riedel Sommelier glasses I was using.

Over the years, constant email communication with this couple, Simon and Ginger, kept us connected and it was clear these are good people and we established a friendship before ever having met in person.

Ginger, who hails from Texas, is now handling the US market exclusively and visited Santa Barbara last year to provide stemware for the annual World of Pinot Noir event held locally in Santa Barbara. Roelanda and I invited her for lunch and enjoyed making the direct connection and discovering she is as wonderful as she comes off in email communications.

Over the years, I have turned on many of my wine friends to Sophienwald glasses and posted notes on WineBeserker. All of my Monday Night Blind Wine Dinner Group have them as do many others including dear friends in Arkansas.

As it turns out, Ginger is making another trip to the area and one of my friends who has purchased many more glasses than I have, invited her to stay in their guest cottage and he set up an in home dinner for her with Roelanda and I and another guest invited.

It turned out to be a stellar event orchestrated by our generous hosts with amazing food and wines served in the righteously appropriate Sophienwald stemware of course. We each had an Essential glass for our water, 2 Grand Cru Champagne stems, a red Burgundy stem for the white Burgundy and a Zalto red Burgundy stem for the DRC.


The dinner menu:

Caviar and accoutrements
Chilean Sea Bass with greens
Duck Confit with roasted potatoes and green beans
Mac and cheese vegetarian entree
Chocolate cake

And our wine list was pretty special as well:

2002 Louis Roederer Cristal Late Release
2008 Louis Roederer Cristal
2017 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Corton-Charlemagne
2012 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Echezeaux

We poured both Cristals at the same time and I first went to the 2008 which in retrospect I would have reversed as it dwarfed the 2002 with its power, depth and complexity which the 2002 did not possess.

Here’s some notes on the wines:

2008 LOUIS ROEDERER CRISTAL BRUT- the color was a still youthful light yellow and the nose offered an abundance of inviting and enticing aromas that included honey and ginger accented yellow apple with a lemon chaser; the taste profile was more of the same while showcasing its power, richness, depth and complexity which was somewhat softened by its creamy mouthfeel; with all that it had going on, the hallmark for this bottle was its amazing balance; this was the best of all of the 2008 Cristals I’ve had and even though it has years to go before reaching its apogee, it provided an epic exceptional experience.

2002 LOUIS ROEDERER CRISTAL BRUT- {edited in LATE RELEASE}- my first notes published here on this were made when I thought it was the regular 2002 release, but thanks to Brad Baker, he caught it as the LR {see below}; I’d had one other bottle of this about 2 yrs ago and it was huge in every way and mostly likely drank about 10 years before being ready; this bottle seemed to lack in power, depth and complexity and also made a statement for individuality as it was like none other featuring tropical fruit notes that included tangerine, mandarin orange, lemon, kiwi and baked apple with a brown sugar dusting; later on, some honeyed pear and apple notes joined in and the sweetness factor climbed another few degrees; the gold color was deceiving as I expected some much more advanced notes; it was good, but different and a bit too sweet for my preference.
The bottle we had was comprised of 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and was disgorged December 2014 at 9 gpl and released February 2020 as decoded from the back label.


The 2008 glass and bottle is on the left of each with the 2002 LR on thei right

2017 PIERRE-YVES COLIN-MOREY CORTON CHARLEMAGNE GRAND CRU- this was truly outstanding and like the others, I had a sip and then just admired all that I experienced afterwards; then I had another sip and sat back for another blissful journey; this wine was truly stupendous as it epitomized all that is good in white Burgundy; with nicely integrated oak influence, this balanced beauty featured toasty mineral laced lemon and yellow apple fruit with a hint of flint while being delivered in an oily texture; it had PYCM preciseness, power and energy from the nose through the tail.

2012 DOMAINE ROMANEE de la CONTI EXHEZEAUX GRAND CRU- poured into the Zalto red Burgundy glass, this amazing wine sported a youthful red purple color and inviting aromas of spicy red raspberry joined by cinnamon and pepper laced black raspberry, cranberry and strawberry on the palate; it was mindful of many of Burt Williams’s Pinots from the early 1990s with one big difference and that had to do with the body, weight and texture; the seamless layers of depth was pronounced by the velvety mouthfeel that was the hallmark for this truly wondrous wine that I would have appreciated immensely even in a blind format.

The generosity of our hosts was over the top and we had an epic night of fine food, great wines, amazing ocean views at sunset and friendships.

Cheers,
Blake


Roelanda, me and Ginger

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The first high end glassware i ever bought was sophienwald. I fell in love with there glassware after having tried the glasses at a winery in Napa. I have a lot of essential and 4 to 6 champagne glasses and 1 or 2 white glasses. No burgundy glasses. I think their essential/ universal is the one of the best glasses out their along with grassl 1855. You can use them for almost any wine. The champagne glasses are really nice but wish they had a bigger bowl. Never tried the burgundy glasses but i love the grassl cru glasses. Thats been the standard burgundy glass for me. Thanks for the note. I may need to procure more in the future, especially the burgundy glasses. The only issue is you can only buy them in 6 packs. I believe you can mix and max which is nice.

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I’m guessing you have the smaller of 2 champagne glasses. The larger one is under their Grand Cru line and definitely has an adequate size bowl; in fact, it is the classiest of all of their stems IMHO.


Grand Cru on the L

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You are 100% correct. I didnt realize they had two different lines of product. I also bought the champagne glasses 5 or 6 years ago. Maybe that line didnt exist then? Have you used the smaller one before? Thoughts? I guess there is a phoenix collection and grand cru collection. I had no idea lol. When i bought from simon and ginger i never saw the grand cru line.

The Grand Cru line has not been all that apparent, but I believe Ginger commented they were redoing the website and that would be one of the changes.

There are 3 stems: champagne, Burgundy and Bordeaux. All 3 are the best and the Burgundy only differs from the Zalto in the it is just bit smaller and has a more definite equator edge as opposed to the rounded Zalto shape.

Here’s a link: Grand Cru Collection - Sophienwald – handmade wine glasses

I use the smaller champagne glasses when I need more stems for traveling away from home.

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Thanks for the link! Have you tasted the essential and bdx grand cru side by side? The specs make it seem like same quality but different edges and shape structure. Im 99% sure all my sophienwald are from the phoenix collection.

Thanks to a very kind friend champagne is an even greater pleasure with the larger glass. Whenever drinking from them he’s obviously in my thoughts and look forward to toasting and tasting together :clinking_glasses:

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I do like the looks of those champagne glasses

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Blake,

You have a Late Release of the 2002 Cristal which was the first time Roederer did an official Late Release which means the wine saw not only more time aging on the lees, but also more time in the cellar after disgorgement and also had lees shaking at riddling which, to me, makes the wine a mini-Vinotheque and nothing like the original release or late releases of the original digorgement.

Roederer has recently done late releases with the 1999 and 2004, but they were really just original or slightly late disgorgements of the wine that were kept at the winery to age. The Late Release like your 2002 is a different animal. The next official Late Release will be the 2008.

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Yes, the BDX GC is the hands down winner. I love the Essential and use it more often as it packs easier for 1-2 times a week usage out at restaurants and I drink with and red wines out of it. My experience has been the more specific stems do consistently better, but its not that significant to pack the larger ones up when I’m usually taking 4-6 glasses..

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Just booked Amsterdam from 19 August-9 September; so, not that far away Mikael.

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This is the 2nd bottle I’ve confused with the normal vintage and it escaped me once again as to how to differentiate the two. The sticky note I placed on the bottle fell off. Lesson learned. Please tell me. Now answered below as the vintage was outside of the oval and the code on the back label provides more info.


Brad, I did some searching though my files as it seemed I had some info on this and sure enough, thanks to you. This comes from 6/27/21:

"Thanks to Brad Baker, my go to source for all things bubbly, here is some info he has provided in response to questions from me and others:

"Blake you have to be careful with the labels on the late release Roederers. They exist in both the old label format (with the vintage in the middle over the LR logo) and the new format with the vintage on the upper right of the label. It all depends on when the wines were labeled and then shipped from Roederer. The late releases (1999, 2002, 2004 are the most common) first came out in 2018 and sported the old label format just as they originally did. As Roederer has continued to release them, they have changed the labels to match the new format. This makes it easy to identify the bottles vs. the original release and fits in with the rest of the Cristal label scheme.

In terms of disgorgement of the bottles, both label types were disgorged around the same time - either the final disgorgement of the original release or around a year after. As both label types share disgorgement dates, the dosage is also the same. The difference is in when they left the Roederer cellars which dictates which label is on the bottle. Also, the QR code/lot number gives you all the info via the Roederer app so you can figure out what is what without worrying about the bottle dress."

Warren: “If I’m not misunderstanding, the only difference between the initial release and the late release is when they left the winery. There’s no additional time on the lees. So if I purchased a 2002 on its release and cellared it properly, there shouldn’t be much difference between that and the late release (for which I paid a lot more!).
Please correct me if that’s wrong.”

Brad: "The answer is ‘kinda-sorta’. In theory and very often in reality, you are correct. In general, the best bargain in Champagne is to buy on release and cellar vs. buying late releases/disgorgements. The two end products are different, but as long as the original release of the wine saw sufficient lees aging I have often found I prefer it as it ages to a late release/disgorgement or, at least, find it to be close in quality and a far better value than paying 2-3X (or more) for the later release/disgorgement version.

2002 Cristal is an interesting case as I have always felt that this wine was not given appropriate lees aging for most of the original release. All of the original release 2002 Cristals that I have had were disgorged in 2007-2009. All of the late releases that I have seen or tasted have been from 2009 or 2010. This additional lees aging makes a big difference especially with 2002 Cristal as I always felt the original release disgorgements were done far too early - espeically the 2007 disgorgements. I feel that with each year of extra lees aging, the 2002 Cristal gained depth and added in more creamy, round notes. For my palate, with each year of additional lees aging, 2002 Cristal got better. There was a big jump in quality to me between the 2007 and 2008 disgorgements and then another increase to 2009 and 2010.

I’m not going to say that this is the case with all of the late release Cristals as a number of factors come into play especially with the 2002. There is a much bigger difference between the late releases and the 2007 disgorgements of the 2002 Cristal than what you will see when comparing the late releases to an original release 2009 disgorgement (assuming storage has been correct).

Where buying late releases makes the most sense is when you want to buy a wine and want to ensure provenance. You know where the late release wine has been for its entire life. You pay for it, but you get this certainty. The other aspect is the different flavor expression of the late release/disgorgement vs. the original release. That can be quite fun, but, again, you pay a premium for the experience. With Louis Roederer, there is a much bigger difference in flavor profile with the Vinotheque late disgorgement/late release wines, but they sell at a very large premium - around 5-6X original release price.

Another aspect of late releases/disgorgements that we are beginning to see is a completely different handling of the wine for the late release/disgorgement. It used to be that most folks just did a late disgorgement or late release of a wine to meet demand and get a premium. There wasn’t a whole lot of thought put into the when and how of this. Today, we are seeing a lot more thought put into late releases in terms of time of the lees, closure for the second fermentation, bottle position when aging on the lees, timing of disgorgement, post-disgorgement aging time before release, etc… A lot of Chamagne producers do their best to make their wine as good as it can be for the original release, but now are using the late release/disgorgement program as a way to express what they would have done with a vintage had they had the ability to do anything. Supply, demand, and general business needs dictate a certain pattern to original releases even if it isn’t always optimum. Late release/disgorgement programs like the Louis Roederer Vinothque, Dom Ruinart Reserve, and even the DP Plentitudes allow more freedom to chase even higher heights for the wine."

Here`s to more Cristal in front of us,
Blake"

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Any way of telling disgorgement dates for the 02 cristal?

Thanks fot the info Blake! I may need to pick up some Grand Cru glasses soon!

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@Warren_Taranow @jon_lawrence @Mikael_OB

There may be other ways, but I do know Roederer has an app and you scan the code on the bottle to get a read out. Also, I’ve emailed the house and gotten really good replies with detained information. From what I’m learning from here, they had numerous disgorgement dates in 2002.

These are the best glasses I’ve ever tried. They are not only elegant, classy, sophisticated and well made, but they enhance every sensory component I use to enjoy and assess a wine.

I attempt to drink all wine out of these glasses to maintain at least one variable on a consistent basis; so, I take them everywhere.

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You didnt need to convince me twice! Ha! I truly appreciate the testimonials. I have a good amount of the phoenix series glasses. I think it would be best to get 2 GC champagne, 2 GC bdx, and 2 GC burg glasses so i can try them all. Im interested to see the differences with the GC glasses.

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Blake,

What I didn’t know back in 2021 is that they actually did two different versions of the late release 2002 Cristal. It wasn’t until last December that I learned about the ‘Official’ Late Release of the 2002 Cristal and what made it different. This was not communicated back then and is just being talked about now as they plan to launch and talk about the 2008 Cristal Late Release.

In 2018-2020, Roederer late released the 1999, 2002, and 2004 vintages. The 1999, 2004, and some of the 2002 were really just late releases from the winery of the very last original release disgorgement or a just after the last original release disgorgement. The wine was handled the same as the original release just with post-disgrogement aging at the winery. Wines were released with labels just like the original releases. However, with the 2002, there was a special Late Release where the wine intentionally saw 8 years on the lees prior to disgorgement and then 8 years of aging prior to release. Shaking was done at riddling to disperse more dead yeast cells into the wine, dosage was lower than the original release, and most bottles sported the modern Cristal label dress. This makes the Official late release Cristal kind of a Vinotheque Jr. It also makes it taste quite different from the original release Cristal IMO.

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