Thanks. I’m a big fan of some of the more pedestrian food and wine offerings of the burbs. I’m happy enough eating and drinking well with less pomp and glitz. I won’t begin to pretend that the food and wines reach the culinary heights of Paris. The discoveries can be really good and satisfying IMHO…if you let the food and wine speak for themselves. Here’s a piece of the Breton menu:
In what other country do they have a gameshow for people trying to spell fairly common French words? Can anyone win a French spelling B without guessing more than half wrong?
Richard - Thanks for your report. “If you let the food and wine speak for themselves” - I think you have captured what is so remarkable about French food. I’m reminded of Francois Audouze’s wine tasting notes - they are all about the emotion a wine invokes (or doesn’t invoke) - they couldn’t be more the opposite of what is “high scoring”/the “vintage of the century”/“hot”/what so many instagrammer &/or well-off Americans/tourists endlessly (but thankfully!) seem to pursue.
As an aside, we’d planned a side trip to rural Brittany near the town of Nevez. I have good friends that renovated a family farm property and we’ve been meaning to visit for several years. They were hit hard by Storm Ciaran a week ago with some added insult from Domingo as well.
They and their neighbors have had no electricity for 9 days and counting. They’re caring for a 90 year old neighbor. Temps have been in the 40s and 50s throughout with lots of cold windy rain. Repairs could still be days away. 1500 workers are reportedly on the job but 25,000+ houses are still without power. I was really looking forward to the seafood binge (she’s a very good cook). Next year.
The most we’ve ever been without power is 3 - 4 days. First time their power has been out more than a day or 2.
Thx for posting. Totally appreciate that they mentioned places outside of the usual haunts (shoutout to the 16th!!!).
Was surprised to see Magma mentioned, as I went immediately after the open (the floor manager from CAM recommended), but they were still shaking off some of the opening jitters and I hadn’t heard much about it since.
Great to see Amarante on there, specifically the table we sat at when I took @Mike_Grammer and his Canadian friends when they came to visit
Also good to see Arnaud Nicolas on the list; I don’t think he gets enough love and he’s a legend on the charcuterie/pate en croute side. The pork and foie pie dish he does is spectacular!
We ate a very good meal at Magma last month. Their smoked quail was one of the best things we ate during our fall Europe travels.
I’m a huge fan of Thomas Brachet’s cooking at Les Arlots, as well as some of the others on this list. Les Arlots doesn’t get the attention that it deserves.
My wife’s favorite Paris restaurant is L’Ami Jean and we go weekly when in town. I thought that Chef Jego was slightly off his game last year for a variety of reasons (new front of house staff after his long time foh manager, Mario departed, new sous and other chefs, and a new son), but I’m delighted to report that his cooking is now better than ever. He has expanded his menu to offer more fish/seafood, with which he is talented and creative.
Others of our favorites are on and not on the Eater list. As lists go, it isn’t bad. I’ve been going to Au Pied de Cochon since my dad took me in 1975 and am surprised to see it get love from Eater.
It seems on every trip I hear rumors of good fare in Boulogne-Billancourt. Not much press and maybe a bit of “you can’t there from here” along with “why bother?”…understandably.
The 16th is largely expats and seniors, so it’s not as compelling of a draw west of Passy, outside of the Statue of Liberty. That said, there are some pretty good restaurants - my W Europe team continued steak nights at l’Ogre well after I moved back to the US, and Mathusalem still feels like a neighborhood secret that has more great nights than “good.” Just so many great places to choose from that it’s hard to justify a metro trip out to the edge of Paris.
Yes, we met 2 retired expat couples from the 16e this past trip. The restaurant topic came up as we toured the old greenhouses of the Jardin des Serres d’Auteil next to Roland Garros. Rumors of undiscovered neighborhood gems.
Couple of comments re: Caves Auge - their best inventory is downstairs, off the main floor. You need to be pretty proactive about asking for specific bottles, and it helps to be a “friend of a friend.” It’s also dark, stuffy and cramped
@Michel_Abood - do you remember the name of the place your Somm friend referred to, around the corner from Las Enfants du Marche (picked up some PYCM and Agrapart there)?
I have been going to Cave Auge for many years. Stopping going after the owner (Marc Sibard) was convicted of multiple counts of criminal sexual assault, sexual harassment and psychological harassment. Is he still the owner?
I read that he was laid off on Paris by Mouth. Not sure what that means.
I used to try to hit it every year or 3. Once my go to for Pierre Overnoy, Yvon Metras and a small St. Romain producer (Chassorney), I always felt like I had to pass an interview to get service. My cellar is adequate so haven’t been in 10 years or so. I seem to remember that Marc Sibard had a long reputation as a “jerk”.
In the category of “if you just happen to get lost in La Defense or Puteaux and would like to buy some wine”…a gentle plug for Cave Mannevy.
Do not make a special trip! It’s strengths are the very hand curated selections and helpful owner (Helene) who speaks some English…quite informative. It’s a rung well above the neighborhood Nicholas, but they know their clientele so value is a high priority. Most of the wines are meant for meal consumption and not cellaring. Plenty of names Beserkers will recognize but not the trophies or higher end offerings. I try to hit the shop every trip for something sippable to consume right away…i.e.: this trip: Hugues Godme Grand Jardins Blanc de Noirs.