Opening a bottle of Domaine René Engel is always emotional. Opening several bottles, knowing they’re among the last I’ll ever drink, even more so.
What made this night truly special is that Philippe’s brother, Frédéric Engel, lives in Panama for part of the year. Sitting with him at the table, listening to family stories about his grandfather, father, and brother while opening these wines, felt genuinely surreal.
As we started tasting, Frédéric pulled out his phone and began showing old family photos. He spoke about his grandfather René, known as “the Professor,” who taught at the University of Dijon for more than 30 years. René was deeply scientific in his approach, he literally had a small lab in the cuverie and treated winemaking analytically. At one point he casually landed on a photo of Uncle Henri… yes, Henri Jayer. During the war, Henri grew up in their house, and later would drop by just like any normal uncle would. Burgundian legends completely normalized 
.
Frédéric then told us about his father Pierre, who took over the domaine in 1949. The transition wasn’t easy, as René was still very much present at the winery. Pierre was also the Mayor of Vosne-Romanée, which kept him busy. During the 1970s, Pierre’s health began to decline, first eye problems, then heart issues. Frédéric was very candid in admitting that many wines from that decade weren’t great, as the Domaine went into decline. A large portion of the production was sold to négociants who bottled the wines themselves. Pierre passed away in 1981, leaving Frédéric’s older brother Philippe to take over.
Under Philippe, the domaine was given a second life and truly flourished. René was still around and helped guide his grandson during the early years. I asked Frédéric whether René interfered as much as he had when Pierre was in charge. He said that by then his grandfather was already quite old, and while still present, he respected Philippe’s decisions and the path he was carving for the domaine.
Frédéric visibly lit up when talking about his brother. To him, Philippe was a true epicurean, and even today people still talk about his warmth and generosity. Alongside that were a few mischievous stories from their youth in Vosne… including both brothers returning absolutely wrecked from a whisky tasting at Jasper Morris’s house .
Frédéric began working at the domaine in the 1990s. He openly admits that wine was never his passion the way it was for Philippe. Instead, he and his mother handled the day to day administration and export side of the business. After Philippe’s death, they made the painful decision to sell the Domaine. No one wanted to continue the work, and the inheritance tax burden was overwhelming with the 2005 vintage sitting in barrels.
Just a few weeks before this dinner, the entire family gathered at the old Domaine to pack up and ship the remaining bottles from the cuverie to Baghera, where they were eventually auctioned. It was a bittersweet moment, but beyond the financial aspect, they preferred that the final bottles go to people who would genuinely appreciate them.
It’s hard to imagine that René, Pierre, or Philippe would have ever thought these wines would be opened decades later in Panama, with Frédéric at the table. The Domaine may no longer exist, but nights like this make it clear that it’s very much alive every time a bottle is opened and shared with the right people.
This dinner happened about two years ago, but I didn’t have the time to sit down and look at my notes to write it up.
Domaine René Engel Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Brûlées 1995
Asian spices leap out alongside juicy red fruits, plums, orange peel, damp soil, and smoked meats. Generous, with medium + structure and a warm, sappy texture. Mostly red berries, a refreshing mid-palate lift of candied orange peel, and medium + acidity. Long finish with smoked game, soy sauce, and lingering Asian spices.
Domaine René Engel Grands-Échezeaux 1996
Frédéric mentioned there were some cork issues with this vintage, but this bottle was pristine. Musky at first, then Chinese five spice, red berries, plums, dried rose petals, damp soil, smoked meats, and truffles. Structured and intense, packed with red and black fruit, candied orange peel, and medium + acidity. Long, savory finish with smoked game, soy sauce, and a streak of iron. My WOTN.
Domaine René Engel Vosne-Romanée 1964
Remarkably youthful. Pure red fruit right out of the gate. Layers of cherry, pomegranate, red plum, sous-bois, black tea, and hints of Chinese five spice. Medium + structure with a warm, sappy feel. Fresh acidity carries through the mid-palate with candied orange peel and savory, meaty notes. Long finish marked by black tea, soy sauce, and spice.
Pierre Engel – Alexis Lichine Clos de Vougeot 1972
From two 375 ml bottles. Very rustic aromatically. Not faulty, just underwhelming compared to the other wines. Dried black cherries, plums, dried florals, damp soil, and wood smoke. Medium structure, black fruit, a touch of VA perhaps? Medium acidity, and a short, meaty finish with mushroom stock and spice.
Domaine René Engel Clos de Vougeot 2002
Brought by Frédéric, from the last few bottles of the family cellar. Provenance matters, and this felt incredibly fresh and young. Huge floral lift of wilted rose petals, followed by black cherries, strawberries, red plums, Chinese five spice, and truffles. The most structured wine of the lineup, dominated by black fruit with a refreshing mid-palate, candied orange peel, and medium + acidity. Long, saline finish with smoked game, soy sauce, exotic spices, and hints of iron.