Indeed, very tradition, and they take a long time to come around. I bought a half case of the 02 Volnay Champans on Claude Kolm’s recommendation and thought I’d made a bad mistake. In the early years it was very light in color and shrill – acidic with little fruit. I realized eventually that my mistake was to have drunk the first five bottles too young. The last bought 10 years or so ago was shining.
I put the 99 Champans in a blind flight with a 99 Produttori Barbaresco and a 99 Mastrojanni Brunello six years or so ago and it fit right in structurally, with lots of tannin and acid. It was yummy then but still young.
She died in 2004, according to the domaine’s web site. She adopted her winemaker, Porcheret, so he could inherit it, as I recall.
There was a wonderful profile of her by Richard Olney in the New Yorker back in the 90s (?).
Chambers had some of the 99 Volnay Champans recently, but a friend said those bottles weren’t as good as the ones we purchased earlier in the 2000s.
Disclaimer: We represent the Domaine in Puerto Rico.
Very traditional well made Burgundies. Wines made by Porcheret and his daughter. IMHO the domaine strength is in Monthelie village and premier cru Duresses. The whites are solid across the board. I would drink them during the first five years or after 15. The wines go to sleep during maturation.