There doesn’t seem to be a clear correlation with Cru ratings with Champagnes as with some other wines. Grand Cru’s are not necessarily more expensive and I’m not sure that they are always qualitatively superior. So I’m wondering if Cru ratings have any real significance when it comes to Champagne.
This is a complicated (and controversial) question, but the short answer is “not necessarily” – meaning that the Cru (Premier vs. Grand) of a Champagne is not always indicative of quality. Unlike in Burgundy (for example), where individual vineyards are ranked in terms of quality, in Champagne the entire village is given a designation. Therefore, as you might imagine, there are some vineyards within a village that are better than others. And indeed, even within a particular vineyard, there are some parcels better than others.
In talking with a winemaker in Champagne a couple weeks ago, he was very frank about the fact that he thinks that a mid-slope Premier Cru parcel can outproduce a bottom-slope or valley Grand Cru vineyard almost every time.
Long story short: as with almost every wine region (Burgundy especially), it’s producer, producer, producer that is important. For example, Vilmart does not make any Champagne that is designated Grand Cru, but they make some fantastic wine! (I won’t give you an example of a Grand Cru that stinks, but trust me, there are plenty.)
Thanks for the informative response.
“Not necessarily” - completely agree. Would also agree with the same comment if it were applied to Burgundy Cru tiering, their more finite designations not withstanding. Lastly, and wholeheartedly, agree with comments re: producer.
The quick and dirty explanation is that Champagne rankings are more based upon the ultimate potential of the core of a village - essentially the best of the best of a number of top vineyards. If the weather is perfect and everyone were to farm the land identically then you would get more uniformly great grapes from a Grand Cru Champagne village than a Premier Cru Village and a Premier Cru village would do better than an unranked village. In reality, this doesn’t happen and even grape prices don’t absolutely follow the cru ranking system anymore. Folks in Champagne understand that some non-Grand Cru sites and villages are equal to or better than a number of Grand Cru ranked spots.
Brad…why dont we hear more chatter about changing the classification system? It seems like the rest of France has constant debate/arguing about changing arcane classifications but I dont think Ive ever heard discussion about Champagne. And the thing is, as you guys describe it, it sounds like one of the more broken classification systems. Is it that nobody cares enough? Are they more entrenched in tradition than the rest of France? Something else?
Humberto,
The Champagne classification system has changed; they recently added/removed some villages (appellation expansion project that is still ongoing). In 1985 they made some adjustments of which the key one was five new Grand Cru villages - Chouilly, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, Oiry and Verzy.
Now, I am not saying the classification system is great, but it actually does change and is not the most rigid one out there. As for a more broad change with things broken down at a level below villages, the data is all there for this. The CIVC has plenty of soil and historical data to show facts that can pair with how the wines taste. The issue is that it would probably cause a revolt as major land and grape value swings would occur in each direction.
People are understanding more and more about the top sites and how they may not be Grand Cru or even Premier Cru. Look at Clos des Goisses - probably the most famous spot in Champagne and the most unique vineyard - it is only a Premier Cru.
Cool thank you!