Dinner wines: '95 Venoge Louis XV and '87 Montrose

A good friend and I enjoyed a fine dinner at his local country club. We each brought a wine and blind tasted the other. Some notes:

1995 DE VENOGE LOUIS XV de VENOGE BRUT- my friend magnificently concealed the very unique and distinct clear glass bottle shape of this wine or I would have recognized it since I’ve had a few bottles including this vintage after I was turned on to it by my favorite wine shop in Amsterdam years ago; this bottle had an amber gold color denoting some age and the nose confirmed it with advanced/ oxidative notes of musty age funk, caramel and butterscotch which was also in the taste; we decided to give it some air time and re-visit occasionally and thankfully we did as we experienced an interesting dynamic of the oxidative notes being joined by some honeyed lemon, yellow apple and peach and then over time they became foremost with the oxidative notes in the background; also, some anise and licorice accents came in and it even seemed to gain more richness and after an hour or so, it was really good and worth waiting for its real gifts to show up; this is a 50% blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir sourced from numerous Grand Cru plots and was made by Eric Lebel, the winemaker for Krug from 1998 to 2020 who is now the deputy director.

Before revealing the bottle and after waffling from 1985 to 2002 and various houses, I called it 1996 Krug or Bollinger RD.

From the house’s website:

“The most prestigious Cuvée of de Venoge bears the name of the French king Louis XV, to whom the Champagne owes so much. By the decree of May 25, 1728, Louis XV authorized only the wines of Champagne to be marketed and transported in bottle. At last, the sparkling process could take place in the bottle: Champagne was born. The Cuvées of Louis XV, made exclusively of Grands Crus and produced only in the best vintages, represent the quintessence of the House’s know-how.”

1987 CHATEAU MONTROSE SAINT- ESTEPHE- I decanted this for 2 hours and checked its aromas throughout and found saddle leather accented wondrous black currant and knew this would be good; the fill was high neck and the color was a deceiving dark, unadulterated purple suggesting a much younger wine as was guessed by my friend who got it as a younger Cab based Bordeaux when first poured blind; for me, it was the epitome of what stellar Left Bank Bordeaux is all about; it had the requisite cedar, earthy leather accented black currant that was joined on the palate by ripe black cherry and blackberry; it was full bodied, silky smooth, elegant and exuded class; I wouldn’t have wanted this to be any different- it was perfect and I found myself being grateful for it giving up all of its treasures for unto enjoy on this night.

It was a fun evening of good fellowship and conversation that included some more wine exploration and education.

Cheers,
Blake

2 Likes

Quite a shock to see an 87 show so well. Not a vintage I’ve thought much of.

I’ve only had the 96 de venoge which was great

I was super surprised and delighted at its showing. It was magnificent.

I bought the '96 at the same time as the '95 and had a bad bottle after a great '95.

Here’s some notes on the bottle drunk in September 2020:

1996 de VENOGE LOUIS XV de VENOGE BRUT- I had just had a the 95` version of this release and it was absolutely stunning, so I was expecting this to be as good, if not better; having had too many bad “older” champagnes lately, I was delighted to at least have had one stellar experience and was looking forward to and expecting another, but it was not to be as this was distinctly corky; before opening it, I was more concerned about oxidative notes and was delighted to find its yellow gold color, but the nose made my shoulders and enthusiasm drop; beyond that was some truly obvious signs it could have been a grand experience. The bottle shape is quite unique and one may have the idea to buy the wine and if it’s not all that great, at least keep the bottle and create something artistic with it although at a price tag way over $!00, that’s probably not all that realistic.

I had the '95 a few weeks ago. It was wonderful and performed strikingly similar to your experience.

Decanted 30 minutes in advance it showed wonderful notes upon serving but ~45 minutes later with little remaining to share and enjoy properly the Champagne reached a magnificent level. A really stellar showing that was mostly lost due to scant amount left for anyone as well as being pre-occupied with other wines being served.

Great note. Thanks for sharing.

1 Like

I love that you decanted yours. There’s been lots of controversy about doing so, but I’ve had the thought that it might help some wines to open up when drank earlier such as those from 2008 that have so much power and complexity or perhaps older wines where undesirable compounds that form over time might blow off. I’m going to have to do some experimenting.