We finally made it back for another sensational experience at The Willows. The food was as fine as ever (Marybeth says better!). Some dishes had more Latin spice than on previous visits. Perhaps that’s due to Chef Blaine Wentzel’s marriage and collaboration with Daniela Soto-Innes, a star in her own right. We had beautiful weather marred only by smoke drifting from the nearby Chilliwack Complex fire by Mt. Baker. In contrast to the pulmonary detriments, our eyes were treated to a view enriched with a red sun.
We had a piscine-centric meal, complemented by beautifully prepared local fruit and vegetable dishes. Some examples were grilled oyters and Tequila sauce, dungeness crab gaznate, shisho and spot prawns, smoked mussels and smoked salmon, baked onion, tuna belly and more.
As is my habit, I brought my own wine. Still, I was happy to see great improvements in their wine list. Some of my favorites; a large selection grower champagnes including several Egly-Ouriet, plus Gimmonet, Vilmart and more.
We commenced with a 2006 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut, as I wanted a crowd please for my friends, and something that could stand on it’s own at the start. This opened to a slight hazelnut hint of age, despite showing some initial matchstick reduction. Then, the typical lemon and orange, brioche and cream, and glycerine texture I’ve come to expect from this wine. My formerly ample supply continues to wane.
Mid-meal, we opened one of my treasured 2008 Pierre Péters Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Speciale Blanc de Blancs Les Chetillons. It had more contrast than similarities with the Comtes. A beautiful wine, though it seems to beg for more bottle age. I preferred it with its elegance and class compared to the bombastically delicious Comtes. It perfectly straddles power and grace. Lemon cream, warm yeasty brioche, chamomile, ginger. Better with air and warmth.
Towards the end came the 1999 Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Ursules Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot. Sometimes you get lucky and catch a modest bottle at its apogee, for a dazzling wine experience. Such was this wine. Dark colored. Dense cherry and raspberry, moist earth, mushrooms, with minerals at the end of the long finish. Persistent; simply gorgeous. Bottles like this counterbalance my occasional regret after opening a disappointing wines from the region.
At the end, Blaine and some of the staff treated us to a beautiful Sherry they had opened; I neglected to catch the details. I finished with a little Chartreuse Verte as a digestif.
All in all, a fantastic experience. The staff were so attentive and friendly. Every part of the meal was a celebration.
Smoke on the water as we boarded the car ferry
Red sun
Dungeness crab gaznate
Shisho and spot prawns
Potato and cheese cream
2006 Taittinger Comtes
Smoked salmon and mussels
Heavenly
Ailsa craig onion with green mole
At its apogee!
Cheers,
Warren