Decanter: Gattinara

WINE TALK
1

Nicely done article by JaneAnson in Decanter:
Decanter:Gattinara

I didn’t realize that there are only 3 producers in Gattinara. It sounds like the new ownership (Norwegian) at Nervi are seriously upgrading the quality of those wines.
Tom

2

Interesting article. And some interesting, good and great wines. Only three main producers. I have been trying to get this one Gattinara on the list for over a year now. It is still hard as nails. And I was pouring the Travaglini by the glass back in the winter.

3

The article mentions Antoniolo, Travaglini, and Nervi but not Vallana?

4

Right, Jim. I’d forgotten about Vallana. Maybe she doesn’t include them as “main”.
Tom

5

I don’t think that Vallana is in Gattinara, though they produce one. Is Vallana in Ghemme?

6

According to “Enoteca Regionale of Gattinara”, a public wineshop, producers are:
Anzivino Emanuele
Caligaris Luca
Cantina Delsignore
Cantina Sociale Cooperativa
Il Chiosso
Franchino Mauro
Iaretti Paride
Nervi
Petterino Marco
Torraccia del Piantavigna
Travaglini Giancarlo

Moreover I think it makes no sense to talk about Gattinara without talking of Ghemme, Boca, Fara, Lessona, Sizzano and maybe Bramaterra. Instead of having multiple crus/villages as Barolo or Barbaresco they have preferred to have one denomination for each village.

7

And don’t forget Lessona. Over the years we have had some stunning wines from both Ghemme and Gattinara, with visits to Travaglini and Antoniolo being must stops when we are home. Torraccia del Piantavigna is also a favorite producer for both Ghemme and Gattinara.

8

Tasted through the Nervi two weeks ago at the distributor and was very happy. Beautiful wines with verve.

9

Had a 73 Travaglini a couple of weeks ago that was remarkably fresh and showed better than the Barolos of similar age.

10

Especially true when some are essentially a stone’s throw away from each other. Quite striking when taking the autobus, that the wine villages come thick and fast.

Also worth mentioning the Costa della Sesia and Colline Novarese DOCs which IIRC take in a wider area.

11

Yes a misleading turn of phrase - Bordeaux or Burgundy might also be defined as having ‘just 3 main producers’.

I recall a conversation at Antoniolo, and it wasn’t Phylloxera they mentioned as being the cause of the vineyards demise, but rather a brutal frost, and an economic situation that meant there wasn’t the money, prospects or motivation to re-plant, and that being smaller than Barolo and Barbaresco, they never had the size to get the name of Gattinara out there. Some interesting views also offered on the name ‘Spanna’ on labels in the region. Although generally viewed as just the local name for nebbiolo, they felt that there had been much substitution of different grapes and/or wines within bottles labelled as Spanna, such that they no longer wanted to use the name. I couldn’t help thinking at the time of Vallana (for whom such accusations have persisted), but held my tongue and didn’t ask for names.

12

Vallana is in the small town of Maggiora. They have vineyards in many areas including Gattinara, Boca, etc., most of which are within 30 minutes drive from the cantina.

Vineyard soil near Boca




fascinating diversity created by the Supervolcano

13

Ive recently had a 3 bottles of the 06 Nervi and all have been really good albeit young and yet to be evolved. Decanting is essential for earlier enjoyment. I`ve seen some major improvement 2-3 days later after opening and decanting for over an hour and then resealing and refrigerating.

Contrary to the article, the Nervi Gattinara has been pretty complex with a deeper darker color; nothing light about this wine in any way. I do get a different fruit profile, but would be hard put to distinguish this from Southern Piedmont in a blind format.

14

When should I open my singleton '01 Travaglini Riserva?

15

Now or any time in the next 30 years (conservative estimate).

16

I think it makes sense to think of those appellations as a group, but there’s a lot more soil variation up there than there is in the Langhe.

17

I had a a bottle of the `03 Travaglini a few yrs back and one of the best reds I have ever tasted in my life!

18

I’ve been a big fan of Travaglini for a number of years but boy that bottle is tough to store.

19

[thankyou.gif] [cheers.gif]

20

Bob
Whisper it quietly, but from what I’ve tried, the 2003 vintage was excellent up there - far from the baked monster in so many other European regions.