Debauchery in Paris (Allemand, Metras, Selosse, Veuve Fourny, Drappier, etc...)

WINE TALK
1

For my last night in Paris, Sharon Bowman invited me to join her and her friends Barbra, Bernie and Sarah for an orgy of wine and food and laughs. We laughed, we cried (especially over spilt wine), we ate and drank way too much. In other words, another usual night in Paris.

To get things started and to celebrate Barbra’s blog getting linked to the NY Times, Sharon popped the cork on a NV Champagne Selosse VO. Gorgeous, deep aromas of brioche, honey and lemon filled the air above the glass, and the thick palate carried its fruit with a beautiful balance. The touches of oxydation were just so, not overwhelming but really light and well-played out, and the finish coated the mouth and slipped slowly into a pleasing memory. Sadly, Barbra had to abandon us for another dinner, but she did leave us with a lovely clafouti for dessert.

Still feeling rather bubbly, we cracked a 2004 Champagne Drappier Quattuor. Whoa, vive la difference! Bright and light where the Selosse was dark and honeyed, this danced on the palate with a lovely joie de vivre. At first, the contrast was shocking, but eventually we got used to it and enjoyed it as it developped with air. This is a beautiful rendition of a Blanc de Blancs from 4 grapes: Arbanne, Pinot Meslier, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay.

Sharon served the main course, a fantastic poulet au morilles, so I began pouring the two reds. The first, a 2005 Yvon Metras Beaujolais, was a fascinating experiment in slightly-aged Bojo. The red fruits had faded somewhat, with light, funky mushroomy accents, with a thick mouthfeel that faded into a crisp, tart finish that was just fantastic. Flowery yet heavy, this was beautiful. This man makes amazing wines.

Speaking of amazing wines, we moved onto the next red, a 2005 Thierry Allemand St Joseph. Yes, you read that right, St Joseph. He only made this in 2005, returning to Cornas after a quick foray north. Wow. Absolutely amazing, beautiful red and dark fruits backed by meaty and spicy accents that went on and on, flowing on a medium-weight, beautifully balanced frame that ended every so slowly. The nose on this was intoxicating. Another guy who makes just insanely good stuff.

As the cheeses appeared, Sharon popped a white Burg, whose name escapes me. Hopefully she’ll join WB and chime in. The wine was a perfect foil for the cheeses, with just a hint of ripe Chardonnay with a touch of lightly toasted oak that was actually very nicely integrated, ending in bracing acidity.

Just for the heck of it, and since we were still thirsty, Sharon grabbed a bottle of NV Champagne Veuve Fourny Reserve Cuvee R. Somewhat uneven at first, it came together to show some yeasty, nutty notes with TONS of minerality. As it breathed, it fleshed out and rounded out, turning into a delightful wine with lots of tart green apples and grapefruity aspects. Very good, in fact so good that Sharon tried using it on Sarah as shampoo. I disagreed, and the wine was saved.

What a way to end my trip in Paris, though the next morning was a bit, er, tough… [drinkers.gif]
Cheers! [berserker.gif]

2

Sounds like a suitable last night in Paris, and good on you for rescuing the Fourny. Melissa and I enjoyed the Cuvee R very much when we visited them last summer, and I certainly agree that it’s very mineral-driven. That Metras sounds delicious - we’re beginning to really appreciate cru bojos, and will seek this one out.

3

Steve,

I love Veuve Fourny, they make some killer juice. And those Bojos are such QPRs, it’s amazing.

4

Nice stuff Michel and thanks for posting. Looking forward to trying my first Metras (07 Fleurie), purchased at Caves Auge a week or so ago. Need to keep an eye out for Allemand too.

RT

5

Richard, that’s where I got the Allemand and the Metras. I love that place. Allemand usually makes Cornas, but in 2005 he had a chance to make some St Joseph. If you can, try them side by side, it would be an interesting comparison.

6

Thanks for the notes. I’m shocked, shocked, that Sharon served Selosse.

7

Definitely a fun store. Had an interesting conversation with the young sales guy only to discover that he’d like to work at Chambers St. when he visits NY and his English improves. He understood enough of my fractured French to suggest an interesting 02 Chinon, an 05 Arbois, a funky Roussillon Grenache that he promised was not overripe, among other odds and ends.

RT

8

Oh my God Richard, that’s Max! I know him and have had a few nice dinners/tastings with him! He’s got impeccable taste in wine and is a great resource.

9

Good to know Michel. Very nice guy. Without a bit of patience and some discussion, one might mistake his youth for limited experience.

RT