Chateau Daugay - not to be confused with Tertre Daugay - is a St Emilion Grand Cru that deserves its moniker. There are so many ‘grands crus’ in St Emilion, I think it can be like grade inflation sometimes. Grand cru, that is, as opposed to grand cru classé, which is a level that for the 50 odd chateau which have it, generally lives up to its performance… although only generally, because a few clunkers are to be found there as well. But not Corbin, which is kicking you know what lately. But I digress. Anyway, I first tried Chateau Daugay, made from the same owners as Château Angélus, in the 2008 vintage at Château Angélus during the en primeur tastings in Bordeaux earlier this year, and was impressed by its smooth texture and fine structure as well pronounced and pleasing berry flavors. I also got a chance to taste some earlier vintages and was generally impressed with them, so thought I’d share some impressions:
Daugay St Emilion Grand Cru 2007: Upon opening, there is a slightly herbal note bordering on green that troubles. But over time, first after about one hour, the wine improves. Certainly this wine bears the stamp of a less than stellar vintage, but its improvement in glass is remarkable. It gains in structure and volume, and there is a lovely plum aspect with some red cherry/cranberry that seems to come around. It has a resiliency that impresses, for as late as day 3 since opening it (sealed with a vacuum enclosure), the wine has gained in fruit and substance. Still, not nearly as interesting as the 2006 or 2005, but for a 2007, this wine is fine. Enjoyed on day 2 with a steak and mushrooms, on day 3 with chicken and vegetables. I think it performed best on day 2, and held well on day 3.
Daugay St Emilion Grand Cru 2006: Unfortunately my sample was marred by seepage, and I could detect just a hint of oxidation but underneath this fault was some mighty fine cinnamon spice and ripe – riper than the 2007 – plum from the get go. This wine also showed more nuance than the 2007 but, still, not much more structure. Again, going back to the 2007, I was impressed. Now if the 2006 were a better sample, I am sure it would have thoroughly knocked the socks off the 2007…
Daugay St Emilion Grand Cru 2005: Much more corpulent, thicker but not jammy. The wine is quite full bodied, with brightness and certainly ripe fruit. But rather closed at this stage. This is like a mini Angelus at a mini price. It contains the most alcohol of all three – listed at 14 percent – and integrates it quite well, albeit with a certain heady finish which will please many palates no doubt. One to seek out and hold on to, especially because the price is probably nice. Not sure what these wines go for retail in the US, but probably around the low- to mid-$20 level?
Any ITBers stateside heard of this one?