Fans of St Emilion at enticing prices should consider Château Daugay. Friday evening, January 29 at Vidalia restaurant, owner Jean-Bernard Grenié – who also co-owns the famous Château Angélus – presented four vintages (2007, 2006, 2005 and 2001) plus two from Angélus (2006, 2001). Since 2006, he and his wife Hélène have been managing Château Daugay, a grand cru classé in St Emilion which, from 1946 to 1984, had been a part of Château Angélus (1946-1984). Lighter-styled than Angélus, Daugay retains a Merlot-driven richness with good structure and fine flavor, supported by much Cabernet Franc and a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon.
Over a delicious three-course dinner, The 2007 and 2006 vintages paired well with pheasant in a mushroom velouté and a hidden piece of foie gras. I remember trying both vintages back last summer and had found the 2007 too tight and the 2006 more promising. By the time of the dinner this year, the 2007 has opened up with lovely crispy red fruit aromas (croquant as they say in France), with raspberry, cherry and plum flavors. The estate used a selection table for the first time in the difficult 2007 vintage, and it shows. Only 25% new oak. The 2006 at this stage is not nearly as expressive on the nose, but certainly shows greater substance and structure on the palate. It was caught closed down, but I suspect that it will prove the better wine compared to the 2007, within the next five years.
For the next course – delicious bobwhite quail with truffle – diners enjoyed the 2005 and 2001 vintages. The 2001 exuded medium-bodied freshness and lovely spicy aromas and plum/damson flavors; it was not yet tertiary, but showed musk along with cinnamon. Worthy of note: zero new oak, which goes to show how good Bordeaux can be without any wood. The 2005 was certainly richer and broader, reflecting the concentration of that excellent vintage. Certainly more youthful in profile, but already a fine drink, the 2005 showed off ripe expressions of strawberry, plum and hints of chocolate.
For the final course, two wines from Château Angélus proved the perfect match for two strips of Cote du Boeuf. The 2001 was perfumed, although showing oak-derived aromas (here we have 100% new oak). Indeed it was quite youthful in its aromatic and palate profiles, but also rich and complex, exhibiting good structure. The 2001 at this stage is certainly drinking better than the far more primary 2006, which felt even thicker and more evidently oak-infused, making it a challenge to enjoy now. It was interesting to see how some people even left some Angélus in their glasses while finishing their Daugay, appreciating that wine’s relevant lightness for dining enjoyment. Of course it proved great to try the Angélus wines, which we can expect to fully blossom within the next 10 years.