I remember discussing lessor vintage wines with Aubert de Villaine many years ago. He said something along the lines of ‘if you wait long enough, you are rarely wrong’ and he is right. Time and time again I have drank delicious wines from lessor years, once they have had considerable years in bottle. The following two provided much drinking pleasure. They are probably the worst years of their respective decades but these two wines performed above expectations.
1984 Domaine Trapet Chambertin, Grand Cru : Aromas of root vegetable, leather, smoked meats and menthol. The palate is not deep but there are all sorts of interesting savoury elements. Structural elements are relaxed and whilst it lacks Chambertin’s usual authority it is quite an intriguing wine that provided pleasure.
1994 Dominique Laurent Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques : The nose has some meat, brown sugar, earth and leather. The palate is mid-weight with vinous sweetness. It is quite minerally and also engaging as it opens up in the glass and shows the class of the vineyard.
