AN EVENING OF FINE WINE AND FOOD - Black Salt Restaurant, Washington D.C. (1/16/2024)
After having been ill with a nasty cold during the holiday season, it was so good to meet with fellow wine geeks in the DC area to pop some corks. We shared one bottle of Champagne, one white Burgundy, and three Left Bank classified wines from the Médoc…
Champagne
[list][]2008 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut - France, Champagne
At first it seemed a bit “merely” citrus, especially when one considers the price of this wine, and the vintage. But do not be quick to judge. Over time, the wine showed off subtle depth and body, with structure to last, although I prefer Cristal when youthful. Over time the brightness also increased in excitement, with vivid notions of white pear, lime/lemon and gorgeously savory blood red orange. The finish was especially long and tonic. A superb wine that paired very well with briny raw oysters, which we had ordered to start. (97 pts.)
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White Burgundy
[list][]2009 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Grandes Ruchottes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
At first quite a bit reduced, with a somewhat dark hue but not at all premoxed. Indeed, the opposite, which was a good sign. We poured in glass at the beginning of the dinner and waited while enjoying the Cristal. About 30 minutes later, it started to open up with subtle butter, wet slate, and red apple. And that typical Burgundy acidity that lends so much freshness even from a hot vintage like 2009. Indeed, the balancing energy made this a super pleasure to drink, given the impressive palate density and structure. I do not drink enough white Burgundy, with many thanks to David Ehrlich for opening this bottle. Paired very well with the Atlantic Day Boat Scallops with roasted cauliflower puree, wild mushrooms, romanesco, crispy kale, verjus and of course butter… (95 pts.)
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1996 Bordeaux
[list][]1996 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Some initial brett aromatics (slight bandaid) blew off with time in glass to reveal a rather broad palate with that gorgeous cedar and graphite that one expects from top flight Pauillac like GPL. Although one senses an initial medium-bodied palate, the powerful tannins make it more full bodied with time in glass, with balancing acidity that makes the wine exciting. Lovely expression of plum and cassis fruit, medium finish. 13% alcohol. A very good match for the wood grilled ribeye steak that came with mushrooms, au gratin potatoes and haricots verts in a foie gras sauce. (94 pts.)
[]1996 Château Cos d’Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
This blend of Cos 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot, which had aged in 65% new oak was the “wildest” of the three Médocs we had over dinner, which included GPL and LLC. Above all, a powerfully tannic wine, whose tannins had a somewhat caged animal aspect but not unripe, notwithstanding hints of grilled paprika that for me added complexity to the more evident ripe cassis, truffle and tar. Fuller bodied than the Grand Puy Lacoste of the same vintage, and a longer finish, infused with peppery spice and a cooler blue-fruit aspect. In any case, at least this bottle - thanks Keith - could easily be cellared for the longer term. (95 pts.)
[*]1996 Château Léoville Las Cases - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
A close to 98-pointer, but still a bit too reserved for that high a score. LLC is notorious for opening up (cue the 1986) and this blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot and 16% Cabernet Franc is no exception. But what breeding and class to the palate! I kept thinking “gorgeous finesse” which this wine has in spades. A very polished wine. Am I repeating myself with synonyms? Yes. With the most pristine balance and refinement among the three Bordeaux we enjoyed over dinner, but over time, I could not help but noting an almost fiery single malt power within the wine, not as evidently “wild” as the Cos tasted alongside, but more subtle. This wine has the depth and density and structure to gain in complexity and to get a higher score in about 5 to 10 years, so no rush. I had opened this bottle the morning of the dinner, then double decanted to remove some deposits two hours before the dinner. And, yes, ripe but not overripe fruit, with cool blueberry, tobacco leaf and cassis. Long, long finish. 12.5% alcohol. (97 pts.)
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The wines were all at least very good. Thanks to David Ehrlich for organizing and for the Bernard Moreau, to Roland Varesko (GPL 1996), Keith Levenburg (Cos d’Estournel 1996) and Tom Mason (Cristal 2008) for their contributions! Black Salt has excellent food, with a strength for seafood and fish. Yes, it is pricey but restaurant prices in the DC area in general have been going up for a variety of reasons, from higher distribution costs, general inflation and higher required wages for restaurant personnel. Indeed, starting July 2024, the minimum wage will increase from $17 to $17.50 per hour and base minimum wage for tipped employees (restaurant front end workers) will increase from $8 to $10 an hour.
Posted from CellarTracker