Cordier! Smattering of Gruaud Larose and Talbot

Cordier! Smattering of Gruaud Larose and Talbot

Wines by both these producers have been known to hit most of the traditional claret side of the spectrum, especially with their generally regarded successes during the 70’s and the 80’s.

Seven of the local Bordeaux group stretched what usually would have been a single producer vertical theme into a sort-of singles match between 2 of Cordier’s stablemates. Dinner was at midtown’s Bobby Van’s with mains of steaks for all. Fun catching up and bantering, as always, with this group, and in this evening included Neil, a non-regular but a very knowledgeable and enjoyable addition.

2016 Emmanuel Brochet ‘Le Mont Benoit’ Premier Cru Extra Brut Champagne
A little subdued on the bouquet, but sip after sip infused mineral, some saline notes, within tight acidity and a lip-smacking finish. B+

1978 Gruaud Larose, Saint Julien (1.5L)
Hint of ferric-metal on the nose, some say nose hinted on being corked, but not enough for my less-than sensitive smell and taste buds to drink my pour and able to experience some plump and some drying fruit, earth, and rusticity. B

1979 Talbot, Saint Julien
In a very nice drinking zone that highlighted cigar, old wood, lively cherry acidity, herbs and crisp dark fruit all in a very nice overall make-up. Good length. B+/A-

1982 Gruaud Larose
Even as I felt that this would have been better served at just a touch lower temperature that it was, this wine still rocked-and-rolled on all fronts. The bouquet evoking the classic leather and cigar notes, in the mouth the red-fruit acidity, cool ripeness, impeccable balance and elegant texture, closed out by a smooth, long finish. A

1985 Gruaud Larose
Very expressive on the nose, all classic Bordeaux, some earth and herbs. Delineated red and blue berries, just enough to complement the overall classic make-up. B+/A-

1986 Talbot
More classic tobacco, leather and a very slight hint of band-aid. Still showed the harshness that the vintage had generally exhibited throughout most of its life, but the dry herbs, cool dark fruit and burst of acidity made this wine more than interesting. B/B+

1986 Gruaud Larose
Superb expressive classic bouquet, adding in a touch of fruit confection. Just as in the same vintage Talbot, all the classic Claret make-up are present, except that there seems to be something that lacks, when I mentally compare with those mind-blowingly good ones in multiple tastings I’ve been in where this vintage was included. Speculating that this was stored deep in a very cold cellar that did not allow for that bit more of evolvement. B+

1990 Gruaud Larose
Declared corked by the attendees.

2000 Talbot and 2000 Gruaud Larose
Wtf happened here? It’s like everything was perfect and serene in laid back town of Hill Valley in the movie Back To The Future and then suddenly fast-forwarded to the scene with the futuristic sleazy Hill Valley where Biff becomes the mayor. These wines were nowhere near the style, elegance and classical complexity that the earlier ones showed. If blinded, these would have been declared as bad ringers. Not undrinkable and admittedly may appeal to some, but certainly not in my sphere of preference. C/B-

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thanks Ramon. My opinions were a little different, but same faves:

The city Bordeaux crew met at Bobby Van’s Tuesday, for a look at Gruaud and its sister (once) Talbot.We started with NV Emmanuel Brochet Le Mont Benoit Champagne Extra Brut. Crisp, taut, very dry, B+/B

I had a wedge salad, ribeye, spinach and fries

1978 Ch. Gruaud Larose (magnum)
Cordier funk squared, this is on the sweaty horse end of the spectrum. Couple times I wondered if corked, but the cardboard note was transient. Some nice cassis and plum underneath though, some others liked more than I did. . B

1979 Ch. Talbot
Surprise of the night. Double-decanted midafternoon. Very ‘79- bright acids, low tannin, floral.
Nice depth to the cassis and black raspberry fruit, some cigarbox. A-

1990 Ch. Gruaud Larose
This wasn’t corked, but there was a weird note- VA overlaid with pickle and prune. C

1982 Ch. Gruaud Larose
Even though I thought this wasn’t best bottle of this I’ve had, it was still damn good! Powerful. ripe but balanced, still some structure, bit of the funk. A-

1985 Ch. Gruaud Larose
Pretty, elegant, some called flat but I never got that. Redder fruits than others, just a hint of pasture, tobacco on finish. A-/B+

1986 Ch. Gruaud Larose
This is usually a candidate for WOTN, while I enjoyed this didn’t seem as vibrant as I am used to. Still some powerful tannin, dark fruits, but a little clipped compared to other bottles. B+/B

1986 Ch. Talbot
Again, a wine I usually enjoy more, still good, tannic, some brett, fruit a little more subdued than expected. B/B+

2000 Ch. Gruaud Larose
I really didn’t care for this, thought a roasted note, came across as international and soulless. But there’s a lot of structure there, so it might come out better in a decade or more. For now B-
2000 Ch. Talbot
Double-decanted midafternoon, Ripe and a bit glossy, but to me still recognizably Bordeaux, if in a fat style than ain’t my thing. B.


Group voting
1st (18 pts each, tie)
1979 Talbot, 1982 Gruaud
2nd (10 pts)
1985 Gruaud
3rd (2 pts)
1978 Gruaud

Fun night with good crowd

Grade disclaimer: I’m a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C
drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn’t drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

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FYI, Cordier sold Gruaud Larose in 1983 and it passed through two hands after that before the current owner acquired it:

In 1983 it was purchased by the [French utility] Compagnie de Suez, and in 1993 by Alcatel-Alsthom [the electrical and telecom equipment maker], and in 1997 by the Taillan Group, headed by Jacques Merlaut, which owns a number of other properties, most notably Château Haut-Bages-Liberal. – > Wikipedia >

Talbot has remained in the Cordier family.

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Yet, somehow, they forgot to change the Cordier-tagged labels on GL bottles through to the 1990 vintage.

Wow, what a killer line-up. Have always loved these Corder wines. Yea, I assumed because of the labels that Cordier owned these estates through the 1980s, a fantastic era for truly classic Bordeaux. It remains my reference point, same as my adoration for The Smiths, Depeche Mode, New Order, et al. A great decade.

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Suez was pretty hands off in terms of the actual winemaking, as they were really just a financial buyer of the property - I can’t recall the winemaker’s name at Gruaud LaRose in the 80’s, but the style was consistent throughout that decade and my recall is that even after the sale by Cordier, he was retained in that position by Suez.

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I’m not sure, but I think Cordier may still have had a role in distribution, too. That might explain the name on the labels.

Some of our bottles.


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I thought the 2000 Talbot was pretty good, as was the 1996, but maybe comparing them to all the other years in one marathon session made them ‘feel’ different.

My impression was that Cordier was managing the estates for many owners in that era. I read a book about Cantemerle, and they were involved in that too. The book was very cagey in describing how/why they parted ways; perhaps when owners/managers separated there was a non disparagement agreement. I seem to also remember seeing bottles of Plagnac and Lafaurie Peyraguey with Cordier bands on the top too.

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82 Gruaud Larose has always been very special! Great lineup.

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I just drank a 1986 Gruaud Larose last weekend. It was the best one I’ve had (out of 5 so far I think).
The few bottles of 1986 Talbot I’ve had were grade A material.

Georges Pauli

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Firstly, thanks Ramon for the excellent notes about some of my favourite wines! Regarding Cordier, it is not surprising that they still had their name on the bottles, because they still owned GL until 1993: Suez bought a minority share, if I remember correctly, in Cordier itself rather than GL. In 1993 Alcatel bought GL and invested a huge amount of money before strangely deciding to sell to the Merlaut family in 1997, who have continued the investments since, including the “lovely” tower! Art is quite right that the winemaker was Georges Pauli, who left I believe in 2007.

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Could be, but the Cordier “funk” is gone.

Appreciate the historical context that provides rationalization for the Cordier labels and helped straighten out the somewhat inaccurate picture that Wikipedia’s information conveyed.