Jojo Madrid, a longtime friend now based in Vancouver, is a partner of Premium Wine Exchange, one of Manila’s fine wine distributors. He invited me to attend what was billed as their most important dinner of the year, featuring library wines of Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé.
Jojo flew in from Vancouver to host. Though a bit worse for wear from the past few days’ over-indulgence(s); I made sure not to miss it.
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé’s Commercial Director, Jean-Luc Pépin, & his charming wife, Brigitte were the special guests. Jean-Luc gave a brief yet very informative talk about the domaine’s history, wine making technique, and the philosophy behind it. Jojo seated me beside Brigitte and had asked me to help entertain her while her husband “works”.
2004 de Vogüé Bourgogne Blanc (fruit from the younger vines of the domaine’s grand cru vineyard, as I understand); and, 1990 de Vogüé Grand Cru Musigny Blanc. All wines were poured generously - no “tasting portions” here. All one had to do was say “yes”.
After tasting both, the appetisingly bright, nervy 2004 Bourgogne Blanc I had with the Sea Urchin Pasta course; and had the heavier, more complex, yet elegantly understated 1990 Musigny Blanc alone.
With the fowl course, the comparatively svelte, well-poised 1998 de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru & the riper, marginally earthier & easily approachable/accessible 2002 de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny.
With the tender, juicy, earthy meat course, the nicely rounded, patrician 1999 de Vogüé Grand Cru Musigny; the young (yet already somewhat approachable), firmly structured, clean-lined/fruited 2009 de Vogüé Grand Cru Bonnes-Mares; and, the comparatively generous, open, hefty, more immediately accessible 2001 de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses. Lovely wines; all dignifiedly self-possessed and refined. The ‘01 1er Cru would be the “crowd pleaser” of the trio to my mind.
Jean-Luc concisely briefed everyone about each wine/flight for each respective course.
After the cheese and dessert courses, Jean-Luc called for and led the singing/chanting of the “Ban Bourguignon”, a traditional Burgundy drinking song identified with the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin…
…which ended with an enthusiastic flourish.
Brigitte, myself, Jojo, Alex, Jean-Luc.
Coffee & cigars after the dinner at the cigar & whisky lounge of Alex’s family’s nearby hotel.
Thank you for this interesting report …
I tasted the 1998 (Chambolle, Chambolle Amoureuses, Bonnes-Mares, Musigny VV) from barrel in 1999.
We wrote :
Nous avons goûté des vins caractérisés par la pureté du fruit et l’élégance, très racés, actuellement assez réservés, presque hautains. Les termes de classicisme, d’aristocratie, de caractère viennent à l’esprit dans ce chai aux volumes impressionnants.
Time seems a clue to optimize these wines (see the 1993). But I still have doubts about the Musigny VV 2006 and even more about the Musigny VV 2005 (both tasted this year).
Time is, indeed, needed for such wines. I opened a 1992 Musigny VV (wedding year) for my anniversary dinner in 2017. Very deep & elegant; and, at that time, I perceived that it was not yet at all tiring.
This ‘97 that my friend, Alex (the tall fellow in the photos of the subject dinner), shared over dinner in 2014, while already quite lush/generous, still had quite a way to go before true maturity.
Looks like an incredible dinner. Thanks for sharing
I always enjoy your posts. Nice story.
My pleasure John.
Cheers to you both:clinking_glasses:
any reason why you don’t post this on your blog anymore, Noel?
Thanks for the notes Noel.
Jean-Luc Pépin is a true gentleman.
Hi, no good reason, really; just laziness. Because of the photos, it’s easier/quicker to post here.
My pleasure, Jeremy.
Yes, that he is; and Brigitte most charming.
Thanks Noel, Manila does seem to have a super vibrant fine wine market.
Well done my friend. I think the 78 Musigny is the best truly great wine I’ve enjoyed more than once in my life.