Clos du Marquis Vertical

WINE TALK
1

Met up with some wino brits at ‘The Bell’ last night in Aldgate for a vertical tasting of Clos du Marquis.

Until last night, I had no experience whatsoever with CdM, always being of the unsubstantiated opinion that there were better wines for my money, in St. Julien and elsewhere.

A few takeaways:

1.) If served double blind, I think I would have been surprised to learn that these were all the same producer. The wines seemed like very good expressions of their respective vintages, which I suppose suggests that they should be described as ‘transparent,’ but there is not too much linking them to each other IMHO. In fact, in at least 2 cases (98 and 97), I would likely have guessed right bank!

2.) It is curious that virtually all of these vintages generally sell for roughly similar prices (especially on release, but even in the secondary market).

3.) While I generally like serious bottle age on wines, my three favorite wines of the night were the 00, 98, and 97 (in that order). This seems to suggest that CdM is perhaps a more early maturing wine than most bdx producers that I have experienced.

4.) At today’s prices ($60 for the 2000, $42 for the 1998), I can’t say I think any of the wines I enjoyed represent good value relative to other wines in the marketplace.

A fun and educational evening, as always.

2006 Clos du Marquis

Surprisingly open for such a young wine. Plump nose. Round and full in the mouth, but not very expressive/dynamic. This is obviously young, but seems to have all essential elements for a quality wine. Tannins are obvious, but not at all harsh/green/herbaceous. 87(+?)

2004 Clos du Marquis

A bit lean and angular. Somewhat lacking in fruit, which is never a good sign for a bottle this young, IMHO. Lots of tannin on the back end, and a fairly obvious, though not entirely offputting green component on the finish. I’ve generally had decent luck thus far with the 04 vintage, but I suspect this will be a case of the wine’s fruit never really overpowering the tannin. Maybe like a modern day 86, in a curious way. Not bad, just not good. 85

2005 Clos du Marquis

First so far with a really expressive nose. Bit of mocha maybe mixed in with the red fruits. Wine has tons of potential, great structure, solid fruit, etc. Only concern is that at the moment, the alcohol, tannin and oak are still a bit overpowering for my taste. 88+ (with obvious upside potential).

2003 Clos du Marquis

Rubbing alcohol on the nose. Actually a better midpallet than I was expecting based on the initial attack. Very fruit-forward, sweet, but not a bomb. Transition to the finish is pretty abrupt, and, given that the finish is strongly alcoholic, I’d say, a bit unpleasant. Will be curious to see what happens over time. 87

2000 Clos du Marquis

Now we’re talking! This wine was a worthy wine. Elegant, complete, well made, great balance, and drinking very well now. Wish I wrote down more specific flavors. Got the stuffing to go quite a few years more, but no reason to wait, as far as I can see. 91+

1998 Clos du Marquis

I’ve always found left bank '98s underrated, and this was no exception. Another very solid, classic wine. Maybe a bit of pepper & onion pizza on the finish. Would have made a great daily drinker had I bought it on futures. 90

1997 Clos du Marquis

Bring on the funk! This seems to express the character of St. Julien (to the extent I know what that is) better than any of the previous wines. Strong moss/forest floor/underbrush/etc component, mixed with a bit of tobacco and just a hint of cedar box. Nice wine. 89+

1996 Clos du Marquis

Not corked, but not in good shape. Someone had warned at the outset of the night that the 1996s were prone to significant bottle variation. Pity. FLAWED/NR

1986 Clos du Marquis

Most muted nose of the night. Soft in the mouth, but all tannin at this point. Surprisingly hollow and uninteresting. No ‘there’ there. 82


1982 Clos du Marquis

Pretty light nose at this point. Had a curious bbq/soy component that I’ve seen on several 82s in recent months. Good grip in the mouth, but the fruit has gone to hang out with Elvis. 87


Finshed with some sweeties

1989 Chateau Lafaurie Peyraguey

Nice orange color. In my limited experience, I’ve enjoyed 89 vintage stickies, but this really didn’t blow much wind up my dress. Missing some of that botrytis and acid that makes these wines seductive. A bit flat and flabby, without much personality. 85

2001 Domaine Weinbach Pinot Gris Altenbourg Vendanges Tardives

Very nice wine. WTF is that fruit?! Damn it – what is that?! Ahh F it. Anyway, this was good. 88+

2

Had the '00 a short time back. I agree that it’s finally starting to show something. A very nice wine, especially for the release price.

3

Serge –

I had been very excited about the 96. I believe the particular bottle we had came from a case that had generally shown very nicely (the guy who brought it said he had one less than a month ago that was showing great stuff).

Serge/Paul –

I thought the 00 was just lovely, and I believe the person who brought it paid <$15 for it – which would indeed make it quite an exceptional QPR.

4

Thanks for note on the '98. I have a bottle or two. Agree with your comment on underrated '98 left bank, especially enjoyed Sociando Mallet not long ago that was drinking great.

5

My '96s were underwhelming, which is why I sold the ones I hadn’t drunk. I wouldn’t call them flawed, just not the least bit interesting.

6

Gregg –

98 was really strutting the other day. Could have consumed it all night long. Do you remember what you paid? First thing I thought was ‘damn, whoever bought this on/near release was one clever motha’

Bob –

This 96 was clearly flawed. I actually thought that the underlying wine showed some promise. I might actually seek some out. If nothing else, it will quench my curiosity.

7

I’m far from the biggest fan of Claret, but I have tasted quite a lot over the years. I feel the vast majority of the affordable Bordeaux is made in a dated and utterly charmless style. Far too many of the really affordable ones are downright badly made, I’ve encountered so many stinking Brett monsters (these are stunningly difficult to be evasively polite but non-committal about when a wine no-hoper opens a bottle at dinner and expects you to drink it). The very best red Bordeaux are undoubtedly properly fine wines, but the prices, the prices!

Getting back to Clos du Marquis. I have a chum who loves the stuff (the misguided fellow) and opens it from time to time. The last two he popped were an 1996 and a 1986. The 1996 had a staggeringly unattractive filth character, it was actively unpleasant and I refused a second glass. Not corked but clearly something went deeply wrong with that vintage. The 1986 had just dried out and, much as you noted Chris, it was too tannic and too flat with no interest at all. Your ‘hollow’ descriptor would have worked a treat when I was roundly abusing this wine.

I think Leoville-les-Cazes wines can be brilliant, so many stunning bottles of that which I have necked, but they are very, very far removed from the realm of a poor lunatic wine-writer’s budget. I could afford Clos du Marquis, but as you rightly point out, even this cheaper wine is poor value. Your excellent report on these wines just confirms that I shouldn’t throw my valuable fun tokens (aka money) away on such things.

Cheers,
David.