Classic Right Bank Bordeaux with Classy WB's

I had to visit the Northeast for a family wedding last week and was lucky enough to meet some long time WB friends. For a variety of reasons, my traveling ability currently is limited, so I have not been keeping in touch as much as I would like. Despite that, the group graciously pulled together an incredible lineup of older right bank Bordeaux and great food. Notes were taken, but are brief, as merriment was high.

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We started with sparkling & whites

NV? Les Mesnil Blanc de Blancs [Champagne] Still fresh, and a Manny Berk RW import.

2010 Keller Abtserde Grosses Gewächs My first experience with this producer. It’s zippy and deep. I wrote down Vom Boden, but I do not recall what that meant.

2021 Tiberio “Fonte Canale” [Trebbiano d’Abruzzo] I thought this was a bit too low acid for my preferences in blancs

2016 Envinate Taganan Blanco This is an orange wine from the Canary Islands. 12.5% abv. From the Vinos Atlantico group, 4 families with wine making skills, but still hunting for vineyards.

The above were all served with fine cheeses, grilled shrimp, smoked scallops, and sliced sausages. We then segued into the older Bordeaux.

1953 Canon [St Emilion] Quite lovely with some tanginess. Look at that color!

1949 Canon [St Emilion] Caramel, brown sugar notes

1971 Canon [St Emilion] darker than you might expect for the age. Some stinkiness but also citrus & oleander notes. (TN now corrected, had been appended to the above)

1982 Canon [St Emilion] Fabulous! A hint of sweatiness.

1982 Certan de May [Pomerol] Also fabulous, great texture and balance. It’s been 20 years since I have tasted one, when I recall that bottle being the WOTN at a Bordeaux dinner.

1998 Bourgneuf [Pomerol] Full bodied but some acidity. I have always liked this, and it has rounded out with the years. Both the 1998’s were presented blind in decanters, and I thought - incorrectly - that neither was a JP Moueix influenced bottling.

1998 l’Evangile [Pomerol] Full bodied, complex, herbal, saddle. For fortunate owners, it’s ready to drink.

And then dinner was closed out with a

1994 Kracher Scheurbe BA which seemed less electric than I thought it would be. I still see current releases from time to time, but it doesn’t seem like they have the same ‘mindshare’ among dessert wine fans anymore.

It was a great evening and I much appreciated the food, friends, wine, and ride back!

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Separately, there were wine professionals / writers there and we had a discussion about stemware. I was using a pair of Zaalto and Gabriel Glas, quite nervously, as they were more delicate than I had anticipated. I do not have either of those marques at home but they are impressive glasses that are not appropriate for our (gleefully destructive!) pets. But more interestingly, one of the attendees observed that a) Riedel’s Vinums work just fine b) it’s more important to clean glasses by hand than to have the most delicate/thin/expensive ones and c) varietal specific decanters - as recommended by Maximillien - are unnecessary.

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Damn, I felt like I was there! Have had the 82 Canon and 98 L’Evangile in the last two years. Both absolutely wonderful wines. Quite a night, thanks for sharing the notes and the pics!

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Fun night. My notes (you forgot the '71 Canon):

An old Wine friend who lives in Sacramento was going to a wedding in CT, came to dinner at our place. A nice group gathered to welcome him.

We started with cheese, smoked bay scallops, and charcuterie, with the NV Rare Wine Company Le Mesnil Champagne. I had found this after John was doing an article on aging NV Champagne, realized this would have fit the theme. I haven’t bought from Rare since they stopped shipping to NY about 7 years ago, so this is probably 2015 or earlier disgorgement. Bread dough, apple, toasted nuts, bright BdB. B+/B

2010 Keller Abtserde Grosses Gewachs
My initial reaction was “Electric KoolAid Acid Test”. Truly electric acids (2010!) , yet so full and fine that it is impeccably balanced. Rounds in glass, lovely mix of citrus, chalk, and green apple. Complex and a finish that won’t quit. A

I grilled some giant prawns and served with maybe the last caprese of the season

2016 Envinate Taganan Blanco
This was a little grumpy and reticent, but solid broad flavors of orange peel and lemon. B

2021 Tiberio “Fonte Canale” Trebbiano d’Abruzzo
Very young, but bright and exciting, Citrus, pit fruit, and almonds. Give some time, but still pleasant. B+ for now, A potential.

Next up were the first reds- I told everyone 1998 Pomerol, but made them guess the wine,

#1 - First guess was Conseillante, but they got around to Evangile in a few guesses. Black plum, cassis, herbs and cigar ash. Young but with developed complexity. 1998 L’Evangile A-/B+

#2 - black fruits, green herbs, tobacco leaf. No one got estate, but most liked a lot. 1998 Bourgneuf B+

Betsy had made beef stew and salad. Rest of wines weren’t blind

1982 Certan de May
Black cherry, plum, mocha. Lovely midweight with long toasty finish. B+/A-

1982 Canon
Great showing, lively acid, resolved tannin, dark fruit with menthol/eucalyptus. A-

1971 Canon
Tangy , black and red currant, a little nutty note. No hurry. B+/B

1953 Canon
Just absolutely lovely. Sweet cassis and black cherry, pipe tobacco, saddle leather, Long and complex, gets better and better. A/A-
1949 Canon
Nose is a bit lifted, too volatile for some, redder fruit, leather, plenty of life and I quite enjoyed. B+/B

1994 Kracher Zwischen den Seen Scheurebe Beerenauslese (375)
Orange marmalade, sweet and empty, low acid. This is a Crock-er of S#$% (though not bretty)
C/C+

Fun fun night/

Grade disclaimer: I’m a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn’t drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

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Great stuff, Arv and Dale. Some of my favorite wines, though I’ve not had any Canon nearly that old.

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For me, the stand out was the Canon1953. So good, I I am on the hunt for a couple of bottles.

Great job with the notes.

Hi Arv!

Great notes, what an absolute treat!

My only contribution would be that Vom Boden is the current importer for Keller, and I would assume you either saw it on the bottle or someone mentioned something about them.

Cheers!

What fun! Great summary - thanks Arv!

This is awesome. 82 Canon indeed an excellent wine.

Cheers

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Dale, sounds like you were an awesome host as always.

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