A buddy of ours bought a leg of Cinco Jotas acorn-fed 100% ibérico Jamon, so of course we had to have an impromptu wine night. One really needs very little excuse to gather, but over this dreamy Jamon, it’s a must! Honestly, the ham glistens, truly melts on the palate. We had an array of gourmet pizzas and cheeses as well, but I would have been happy just gnawing on the Jamon.
And most of the wines were up to the challenge!
2008 Chateau Ausone, St Emilion
I remain enthralled with this classic vintage, and this Ausone, easily the best wine from the vintage that I have had. In a line-up of wines across an interesting spectrum, the class and impeccable balance of this wine shines through. Gorgeously fragrant perfume of briary red fruits, dry earth, crushed rocks, spice and some florals. Silky palate with a range of red to dark fruits that caress the palate with medium weight and a soft graceful texture. Still showing some tannins and structure, still needing 5+ years for optimal drinking, but oh is this so damn good. Eclipses the 2015 Ausone I had recently, and makes the 2015 Figeac that followed seem so garish.
*97 pts.
2015 Chateau Figeac
*
I find this wine grotesque. Sure it’s a baby, but that’s no excuse. It’s gloppy grape juice. WTF has happened to my beloved Figeac? Fuk what Rolland and this solar vintage has done to this once-heralded estate. Over-ripe fruit, lush, bitter tannins. I hope the 2016 shows better as I own some. I had half a glass of this wine, passed on any more, really unpleasant. I know the change happened even with the 2014 vintage, but I’m good with that Figeac.
75 pts.
2015 Clos Rougeard Les Clos
Compare a successful Cab Franc from the same 2015 vintage to that Figeac. This wine is excellent. Love the archetype Loire nose, a bit barnyardy, cigar leaf and ash, red fruit and dry earthy. Tart but full on the palate, leaning to silky on the finish with just a slight grainy texture. An interesting melange of herbaceous, sweet and tart, like a gummy. A structured finish, suggesting this wine will go for some distance. I’m not a big fan of 2015 Loire but this wine wins big. A step behind, however, the most excellent and classic 2014 Les Clos. Cannot wait to try the Les Poyeaux, but was disappointed to see A So’s recent note, sounds like it either needs more time or just missed the mark for this wonderful vineyard.
94 pts.
2010 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único
Of course we had to have at least one Spanish wine with the Jamon, and it might as well be this one. God this is a gorgeous wine. This is a Bordeaux-lover’s Spanish wine. Impeccable balance and structure, built for the 50+ year long haul. Might fool me as a Pauilliac with this structure, dark cassis, dry earth and the pencil/cedar note. The American oak is so in the background, deftly handled here. A wine that truly coats the palate, full-scaled but dances like a heavy-weight boxer. Truly enjoyable wine but give this wine a minimum of 10 years, it deserves to be treated like that, and undoubtedly will reward even more than it did tonight.
95+ pts.
2004 Smith Haut Lafite
This is a MarcF wine. And yes, he brought it. I’m still amazed by how many bottles of this 2004 that I have had with him, it’s like he just pulls them out of his pockets. Love the aromatics on this wine. Such classic funky earthy Bordeaux perfume. Wafts of big rich wet earth, tobacco and leather. Dark fruited and fairly large-scaled for a 2004 Graves. Delicious and in the zone. This wine in subsequent vintages has gone to total shit. Pardon the language.
93 pts.
2014 2014 Antinori Tignanello Toscana IGT
A baby, but this is a damn fine Super Tuscan. Composed, I believe, of around 75% Sangiovese and 25% Cab/Cab Franc. I loved the melange here, with the heavy dollop of the Cabs giving significant structure and darkness, and the Sangiovese providing the acids and red tones. Still a bit austere and in need of time. I do not recall hearing much about the 2014 vintage for Tuscany, but this wine wins for me.
93 pts.
2016 Caymus Special Select
So we had reached that point in the evening where the alcohol had taken over, wives were out, so judgment was headed down-wind fast. The Oban 18 was open, and apparently some fool (me) declared, “we need another bottle”. And our buddy grabs this out of his mudroom. He had opened it for lunch and had a glass. After ragging on him for drinking this stuff, and during the day while the rest of us suckers worked, we all engaged. I really have nothing to say. A few sips and I’m out, if I want a cocktail I start with the Oban.
Hell of a night.
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