Château Lafleur to leave Pomerol appellation

Received notification today from the Guinaudeau family that Lafleur and Grand Village are leaving the Pomerol and Bordeaux appellations. An excerpt from their letter:

Climate is changing fast and hard, that much is clear. The vintages 2015, 2019, and above all 2022, were all strong evidence of that. 2025 goes a step further. We must think, readapt, act.

Our decision-making and the resulting practices are in fact evolving much faster than what is authorised in our Appellations of Origine system.

Consequently, while maintaining the utmost respect for our fellow producers and the appellations of Pomerol and Bordeaux, we have decided to cease adhering to the appellations of Pomerol and Bordeaux beginning with the 2025 vintage.

The six wines of Société Civile du Château Lafleur will be designated as Vin de France beginning with the 2025 vintage.

There is no real detail on exactly how the Guinaudeau family plan to take advantage of this move into Vin de France in the letter. I have asked for more detail, but don’t expect a rapid response.

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Chris, do you have any more details?
I always thought the AOC in Pomerol was not particularly onerous, so I’m curious what Lafleur wanted that was outside the rules. I imagine this decision did not come easily, so it must have been something pretty major that would prompt them leaving the appellation

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Wow. Thanks for the news.

irrigation related?

Leaving a Pomerol designation is definitely a big deal, with Lafleur being Lafleur.

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I assumed it was irrigation related when I read it–unless they want to plant Cabernet Sauvignon (ripens later) or something along those lines.

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No I don’t. The letter is vague on exactly what they want to do that the appellation forbids. I have asked for more detail but I don’t anticipate a quick response.

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Nothing to stop you planting Cabernet Sauvignon in Pomerol. Although I can’t see them moving away from their beloved Bouchet, as they call Cabernet Franc.

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Fair enough on the planting front, but I suppose I was wondering if a Cab-dominant wine would get approved by the AOC as being typical enough?

Looks like Pomerol AOC has already started to relax the rule on irrigation (permitted with 2 days’ advance notice in case of extreme weather) since 2022. Unless they want even more latitude around that…?

Also hard to imagine Lafleur would get dinged for typicity because they used too much cab. Pomerol AOC benefits more from Lafleur being one of the stars than Lafleur has need for the Pomerol AOC tag on its bottles.

Perhaps they’re thinking to experiment with non-BDX varieties? Or something else outside the box? Who knows. Would be interesting to find out.

That was my first supposition

I’d wager its varietals.

Roll on the Lafleur Grenache blend :)!

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Watch yer back, Priorat!!

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The news is way bigger than Pomerol. Bordeaux! Don’t know why everyone is focused on Pomerol…

Even Lafleur knows that Bordeaux is swill and doesn’t want to be a part of it. :rofl:

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I think the suggestions above are probably the most likely reasons.

The only other I could offer, is that they don’t like where other Pomerols are heading, and don’t want to be associated with them. I think this is doubtful, as Pomerol is not St. Emilion, and is less susceptible to the bigger/riper is better mindset.

The DNA of Lafleur is embedded in its Cabernet-Merot blend. Their love of Cabernet Franc, or Bouchet, is almost cult-like in its intensity, and I think a move away from this variety/blend is highly unlikely.

Also, if they wanted to experiment with new varieties, they could plant and experiment as they wish without leaving the appellation as some varieties are permitted for the Bordeaux appellation. They could do so at Grand Village with no drama.

Coming at the end of another warm and dry season, with another early harvest just weeks away, I suspect this is more to do with wanting to try modern irrigation techniques free from appellation restrictions. But as I said I don’t want to speculate any more than that, I hope the Guinaudeau family will say more.

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Pardon my ignorance, but I gather the AOC limits irrigation? I’m curious as to the thinking behind that. All I can think of is some fear of a sort of dilution, but shouldn’t that be up to each wine maker? What’s next, mandated picking date?

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I suppose it is intended to reduce yields, but there’s probably also some aspect of it being counter to the notion of terroir. See also "If You Irrigate, It's Not Terroir..."

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So climate is the issue.

Mitigation that might fall foul of AOP rules - misting systems, shade netting, irrigation (although this is allowed with notice - is this enough notice for dealing with heat spikes?)
Then there’s also the enhanced risk of frost - some frost-prevention systems might not be permitted, such as baches or heated wires or frolight systems
In terms of disease risk, there are some systems that act as umbrellas covering the canopies only when it rains - and this is 100% effective against downy mildew. These aren’t currently permitted, but Lafite has trialled them, among others (called Viti Tunnel).

I think new varieties is a slight stretch here - something a bit more urgent is needed

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