Chateau-Grillet

While I’m familiar with the basic story of this estate, I just had my first bottle ever of the wine the other night (a 2006) and found it fascinating. I also understand that the family who had owned the estate since the 19th century sold out to an investor a couple of years ago.

Anyone here have lots of experience with the wines of this estate? Quality/ageability/context? Any comments about the intentions of the new owner?

I’d love to know more, and there’s not too much available on the web…

It is my understanding that Chateau Latour bought it. They apparently thought it was an exceptional opportunity. WS reported they are making a significant investment to upgrade it.

Yeah I saw this mentioned in Audoze’s post and had no idea what he was talking about so I Googled it. Unique appellation owned by a single producer, like DRC RC.

I visited a long time ago and have had the wine from 3 or 4 vintages.
Sadly, like Coulée de Serrant, I have never been able to see the magic that others crow about.

I have one bottle left in my cellar (2008) which I will age on the off-chance that my other disappointing experiences were due to the fact that I opened the bottles too soon.

I’m willing to bet that Pinault will turn the wine around and that it will become quite another animal in years to come.

And that it’s price will be multiplied by three or four :slight_smile:.

Best regards,
Alex R.

I am with Alex. I have had the wine on a number of occasions, seeking the magic that ought to be there and never finding it. This wine has been a chronic underperformer for virtually its entire history, at least as judged by reports on drinkable bottles in this century and the last. Still, a distinct majority of those with vineyard expertise have always believed in the location. Even if its new owner changes the wine beyond recognition, it is one of those cases where the resulting product almost certainly has to be better. In this case, perhaps much, much better…

A great, unique wine …
See here with pics : In Vino Veritas Toulouse – In Vino Veritas Toulouse – Le site du club Toulousain presente ses plus belles degustations. Des commentaires de degustation sur plusieurs milliers de vins.

Grillet is a tough wine to “get.” It is - for whatever reason - so radically different from Condrieu that ones expectations are confounded. (Rostaing’s La Bonnette is the only C that in the same direction, even if only faintly.) It is a severe wine versus Condrieu’s obviousness. It also really, really takes time to sort itself out - 13-15 yrs min. The quality vintages also don’t match with the rest of N. Rhone - the '97 was a gorgeous wine last time I had it in '11.

That said, it is not a wine for everyone and I think that is a good thing.

A.

Grillet was my first introduction to Viognier. I had a couple from the late '60’s that were good…but just that.
But that ethereal scent of Viognier was there and it opened my eyes to the variety. I segued on over to Condrieu and
never looked back.
I’ve had maybe 5-6 Grillets since the early '70’s. Pretty underwhelmed…especially for the price. They seemed
rather lean and eviscerated and didn’t deliver the previous glories I recall. Not enough ripeness I felt.
Maybe the new owners can reclaim its early glories that it must of had to carry such reknown? Maybe what we get
is all that terroir can deliver? Maybe Grillet is destined to just exist as the answer to that trivia question?
I certainly don’t know…clueless.
Tom

Agree, Rostaings La Bonette can really age for 10, 12, 15 years (had a 1996 last fall that was actually better than 10 years ago), with fine minerality and very lively acidity.

About Chateau Grillet: I had some 5-6 vintages so far, and only one (1984!) was really kind of outstanding … and the comparison to Coulee de Serrant is not bad (although my successes with this wine are more frequent).
I once had a talk with Philippe Guigal about Grillet. He stated that the terroir is indeed THE Grand Cru for Viognier (like Montrachet), simply perfect soil and micro-climat, but the long-time owners were really underachievers … he would very much long to try making a great Chateau Grillet, but at these times nothing about a sale was known.
I´m sure Guigal made an offer for this estate … maybe it wasn´t high enough [soap.gif]

Haven´t tasted any Grillet after vintage 2001.

The last vintage I tried was 1998 due to prices. I may still have 2 bottles left…

I’m not sure Guigal’s heavy-handed new oak regime would be a great fit with Grillet. Would rather that someone with a more sensible approach to ‘wine-making’ took over.

I had the '98 with Doug S. from this forum last year. I have to say that I was really bummed. It was flat, no acidity, and while the nose was nice…the rest was just blah…here’s my note from 1/21/12

Smell: show-stopping scents of tropical fruits, honeycomb, and floral notes that are almost perfumed they are so beautiful.
Taste: this was a HUGE disappointment! Now open almost 14 hours and some subtle favors of lemon and pie crust with a hint of banana and meringue linger.
Overall: to say I’ve never had a Viognier like this is absolutely true…but this was just such a big disappointment on the palate that I was crushed. If the palate is ever as complex as the nose, I’d be in love! I rated this “very good” because the nose was so complex that I’m still just sitting here smelling it…if not for the nose this would just be a “good” wine.

I have a couple bottles of Cuvée Renaissance. It is good and interesting but never something special. In general viognier don’t age well and this is no exception.

June 2007 :
12. Château Grillet 1969 “Cuvée Renaissance” Tirage limité à 1730 btls :
DS17+ - PC19 - LG18,5 - PR19 - CD18. Note moyenne : 18,3 - Prix : 60 € (TN by Philippe Ricard/PR)
• Robe au doré franc et vif, toujours « raisonnable », avec de superbes relfets or fluo. Grasse, auguste, elle confirme, malgré ses 38 ans, que l’âge n’a pas d’emprise sur elle…
• Nez avec cette réduction noble initialement perçue, puis évoluant ensuite sur le pain d’épice, le citron, les agrumes, une touche de café, la réglisse, la pêche… Intense, frais, sans aucune trace d’oxydation, il continue à défier le temps…
• Bouche très grasse, ample, marquée d’une subtile note d’alcool, mais qui ne renie jamais son équilibre : toujours fraîche, pleine d’allant, de peps, elle a su conserver sa nervosité… Matière de grande concentration, riche, elle exhibe généreusement ses arômes de citron confit, de camphre, de lavande, de réglisse, de fruits à l’eau de vie, sans jamais concéder la moindre faiblesse à une tenue exemplaire malgré un minéral moins expressif. Finale très distinguée, épicée (poivre, gingembre), elle affirme sa puissance et sa longueur sans jamais céder à la lourdeur. Encore une merveille que nous dégustons avec retenue, à la manière d’une liqueur. Que du bonheur !

Vin Exceptionnel
1998 Château Grillet 18,7 18,7/20 stands for 96,75/100

Grand Vin
1983 Château Grillet 18,3
1969 Château Grillet 18,3
1973 Château Grillet 18,2
1990 Château Grillet 18,1
1985 Château Grillet 18
1979 Château Grillet 18

Excellent
1989 Château Grillet 17,9
2000 Château Grillet 17,8
1986 Château Grillet 17,7
1995 Château Grillet 17,6
1994 Château Grillet 17,6
1980 Château Grillet 17,4
2002 Château Grillet 17,3
1996 Château Grillet 17,3

Très bons vins
1982 Château Grillet 16,9
2001 Château Grillet 16,8
1991 Château Grillet 16,8
1997 Château Grillet 16,7
1987 Château Grillet 16,6
1988 Château Grillet 16,3
1984 Château Grillet 16

Bons vins
1999 Château Grillet 15,6
1992 Château Grillet 15,1

Assez bons vins
1993 Château Grillet 14,8

Which international wine (red or white) could score more ?
The various last encounters also showed a great unique wine … an idiosyncrasic Condrieu