Charleston 2025 Day 2: Blind Tasting

[MChang]

Big thanks to @Mason_H for hosting us at his house and making his signature fried chicken and lobster Mac and cheese! The food and company was phenomenal.

Tonight’s theme was generally blind tasting, although there were some non-blind wines poured as well which I’ll highlight first.

Starters:

2015 Cedric Bouchard Boloree:

Intellectual wine with beautiful nose of purest light lemon zest and hay. Incredible transparent palate presence with little weight. Super long and transfixing finish.

2006 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rose

This was lovely, with beautiful aromatics of strawberry and cherry, with rich palate presence and a brilliant finish.

1990 Salon Le Mesnil Blanc de Blanc

I had heard mixed notes about this wine so was slightly concerned, and a little more concerned when it was a hint darker than expected. I needn’t have worried, this was fresh as a daisy and an absolute showstopper. Incredible Meyer lemon curd on the nose with a few tertiary notes including a hint of crème anglaise. The palate had crisp and brisk acidity, stone fruit, and was incredibly well integrated and elegant. The finish was supremely long. Benchmark aged salon and one of the best mature champagnes I’ve had. My wife who loves Salon, adored this wine. In her view a perfectly aged vintage Chanpagne allows time to focus their best characteristics, which this wine absolutely did. Time can both reveal strengths and expose weaknesses and this Salon has only gained in strength over time.

2023 Wolves Above Blueberry Wine

This was another nice iteration of this wine although I think the 22 showed better last year. It was a bit more fruit forward and more easily recognizable as a fruit wine, perhaps needs more time to integrate.

Blind Flight 1:

Wine 1: Beautiful stone fruits, roundness and richness. Got some calls of Meursault, and most people thought this was a bit more mature. Incredible density on the palate and length. A lot of guesses of Meursault here. Almost everyone was sure this was a white Burgundy.

Reveal: 2017 Vincent Dureuil-Janthial Rully 1st Les Meix Cadot

Wine 2: A little lighter in color, with some lime and a hint of mint on the nose, with some struck match. This was elegant, and had great length. Certainly younger and needs more time than wine 1.

Reveal: 2019 Goodfellow Temperance Hill

Other white blinds:

Wine 3:

Recognizable to me immediately as Riesling, but I got a bit more mouthfeel and alcohol than usual, it didn’t feel as light bodied, so I questioned Austria which was correct. A hint of petrol on the nose along with lemon and a streak of lovely acidity. There was great length and this was very pleasant; I quite liked it despite not caring much for Riesling

Reveal: 2013 FX Pichler Loebner Oberhauer

Wine 4:

This was young but much denser with some beeswax to on the nose, clearly not a Chardonnay. There were exotic notes like banana and passion fruit. The finish was long and pretty. I was immediately drawn to something like a white rioja but it also didn’t seem right, so I said white Priorat which was correct. Had no idea about producer or vintage.

Reveal: 2016 Terre de Cueques Priorat

Wine 5:

Lovely aromatics with beautiful Meyer lemon on the nose, with a bit rounder mouthfeel. I didn’t think this was one of the chiseled chards from places like Walter Scott, Morgen Long, or Goodfellow, so ended up with Antica Terra which was correct: didn’t know anything about the vintage which ended up being 22.

Reveal: 2022 Antica Terra Aequorin

Red Blinds:

Flight 2:

Wine 1:

Haunting aromatics with purest transparent ripe cherry. A bit more density and fruit on the palate, elegantly into an incredibly long finish. Initial guesses were all over the board for vintage, mostly younger ones like 17, before after some prompting, they got to 2009. Village guesses were all over the board initially. @robertl proposed Chassagne rouge which wasn’t right, but I can see why it was proposed. but once it was revealed it was from the Cote de Nuits, every other village was proposed until Chambolle was revealed. @Steve_McL couldn’t believe the Chambolle reveal. After a bit more discussion, everyone agreed it was 1er, and after several other guesses on vineyard happened including Amoureuses, fuees was proposed. People were still a bit surprised by.

Reveal: 2009 JF Mugnier Chambolle 1er Fuees

I was commenting to @Nick_Christie that I was excited to bring this as he’d mentioned and recommended this exact wine to someone a couple weeks before.

Wine 2: people called this pretty but muted, although after a couple hours this opened up into a beautiful wine with a bit more structure than the Mugnier, but with a bit less lift. Ripe strawberry fruits, with a bit less tension, but stately elegance on the finish. This gained a lot in power and elegance over time, and by the end of the night, to me at least, surpassed the Mugnier. Lots of guesses, including a lot of Jadot, but people ultimately were not that surprised by:

Reveal: 2009 Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle 1er Fuees

Wine 3:

I was on the edge of whether this was a Pinot, but it was confirmed it wasn’t: I got a hint of VA, and there were lovely lifted aromatics with a streak of cherry. I quickly guessed Grenache which was correct then I deferred because I knew what the wine was. @Mason_H then confident stated we were drinking Rayas from a warm vintage, which ended up being correct.

Reveal: 2009 Chateau Rayas

Wine 4:

Immediately I got a bunch of funk and barnyard, along with cassis and Garrique with a long finish. This drew me to the Rhône; I guessed southern Rhône which was incorrect so we went with northern Rhône. Cornas, Cote Rotie, and Hermitage were shot down so I guessed Chave St Joseph which was right. I was very surprised to see that this was a 95, as it tasted much younger.

Reveal: 1995 Chave St Joseph

Wine 5:

Immediately we got dried fruit, and someone quickly tossed out Amarone which was correct. This was lovely and was showing very well.

Reveal: 1999 Allegrini Amarone

Wine 6:

Big broad-shouldered bottle, which quickly identified it as from Spain or Napa, but this was clearly Spanish. Beautiful dark fruits and a lot of palate density, with a very pretty finish I was between Rioja and Priorat as I didn’t get that dill initially, but once we got to Rioja, I went with Muga which was correct.

Reveal: 2006 Torre Muga

Wine 7 (sweet):

I wasn’t involved in the blind tasting for this one, which @Mason_H got in very short order; this was incredibly dark with beautiful aromatics with overripe pineapple, lovely lanolin and incredible texture. The length was immense and so pleasurable. Wonderful bring by @John_Davila

Reveal: 1990 Huet Mollueux Premiere Trie Le Mont

[Nick_Christie]

As Michael fills in the details, let me thank him (& everyone else) for a fantastic evening . Mason & Brittany’s house is so welcoming. It’s a joy to do blinds in such a relaxed, warm setting. We even had a little help from their two beautiful children, although they eventually left, incredulous that we could celebrate with this much wine :).

Mason’s fried chicken is fantastic, and fresh from the fryer complimented so many of the wines. Particularly the 1990 Salon which was every bit as incredible as Michael describes. Gentle hints of ginger toast alongside the myriad of fruits & such lingering complexity on the finish. It’s a very warm feeling to be at leisure with this stunning wine. I loved the home decor, particularly the kids’ accolades on the walls (Their son is crushing the third grade).

The Spanish and Austrian whites also went fantastically with the chicken. I love that Michael spent so much time working & living in Austria (it is one of my favorite little facts about him). I appreciate him humoring me by going through the exercise with a Riesling :). And I’m glad he found it “pleasant.” I enjoy those wines very much.

It’s really fun & valuable to do blinds altogether. It’s important to talk through beautiful wines, even if afterwards one can feel a bit chagrined that one couldn’t be as specific & clear with one’s blind translations…

Michael’s Fuees Flight was utterly gorgeous. I definitely thought younger (2017, or 2012). I had never had this vintage of these two wines, which I suppose makes it trickier in trying to recall similarities. But honestly: having jewels blind reminds one that sometimes we all have a cautious instinct in blinding. And we should fight that . We need reminders to push ourselves. I do, anyway. And lean in for more, besides just cautiously settling on “really beautiful, high-end premier cru… maybe chambolle?”

These wines showed so well. Beautiful ‘Mugnier’ aromatics, more strong, ripe cherry than other versions I have had, but still with the dried flowers and sweet spices. Exploding from the glass. Michael was right to (gently) chastise me for not zeroing in on this with better clarity . This wine was gloriously saying what it was, and I should have heard it better!

The Barthod was excellent, and as the night wore on impressed the hell out of me with its velvet, rich texture. Aromatics were very quiet for first 30-60 minutes (hence actually making the Mugnier even more powerful by comparison), but very high quality in texture immediately. I did not think these wines were the same vintage, also due to the aromatics and differences in depth. And yet, the Barthod really shined as we sat with it. Light rose petals and hints of leather. And a joyous, concentrated purity to its fruit. Less winemaker signature. A Gorgeous wine.

Michael spoiled us. The wines were phenomenal, and it’s good to go through the process. Honestly, I wish we took even more time with them blind :). Thankfully we could follow them throughout the evening, too. A very singular flight.

The Reds from anywhere went very smoothly, actually. Some excellent representations of mature, noteworthy wines & regions. I was really pleased (and impressed) that folks were so quick & decisive with recognizing these beautiful expressions. I have to run off to lunch, but shall hope to add more later. A wonderful, wonderful evening. Some exceptional wines. And very grateful to share them with so many happy friends enjoying them at a calm pace. With lots of warmth & laughter.

[MChang]

Yeah I think it was a really fun night; we didn’t take it too seriously but I think everyone learned a lot while also having a great time!

The Rioja was really great, I’m a big fan of those muga wines, and all of the wines showed well!

The food was also phenomenal, especially the lobster Mac, key lime pie, and fried chicken!

[Karl_K]

Great notes.

Strong call Michael on the white Priorat and Chave.

[Steve_McL]

There was a a bit of unpleasantness early on.

Genteel chef: “Hon, should I plate up extra green beans?”
Lady of the house: “Nah”
Clueless yankee: “OMG we need more vegetables!”

——- Shocked silence reigns ————

Genteel chef: “I declare suh, you have contradicted mah wife, and I do believe you have forgotten where you are.”
Clueless yankee: “Say what now?”
Genteel chef: “This is South Carolina where mac-and-cheese, especially lobster Mac-and-cheese is a vegetable!”
Then in show of true Berserker courtesy, he gave me lobster off his own plate. This son of Maine was impressed.

@Nick_Christie smiling for the camera while @MChang gets some Mac-vegetables

Full disclosure: there was a mountain of green beans left at the end of the night, and about six molecules of fried chicken…

Always fun (and humbling) to taste blind. Many standouts last night, but for me the 09 Mugnier Chambolle Fuees was my favorite, the belle of the ball. I was sure it was Morey.

The 06’ Muga and the 90 Huet were outliers that really grabbed my attention. Thank you @John_Davila !

[Nick_Christie]

@robertl was told by one of his new clients to get a fancy photographer to make him a new Portrait ID.

We think we nailed it

[Karl_K]

Sure looks like it!

[Mike_Grammer]

Super notes and pics, guys—best of all, I feel you captured the warmth and easygoing camaraderie that infused this blind night. Awesome that the humble Rully showed so well. Nick has been generous to share some 13 Pichlers with me and they have all been very good at least. Champagne and fried chicken = heaven-sent match. I have to thank Leslie Fisher for introducing me to this concept (I’m organizing the Toronto crew’s 4th one of these in mid-November). Those old-ish 1er tries from Huet can be stunning.

Sante!

[MChang]

@Mike_Grammer

Super notes and pics, guys—best of all, I feel you captured the warmth and easygoing camaraderie that infused this blind night. Awesome that the humble Rully showed so well. Nick has been generous to share some 13 Pichlers with me and they have all been very good at least. Champagne and fried chicken = heaven-sent match. I have to thank Leslie Fisher for introducing me to this concept (I’m organizing the Toronto crew’s 4th one of these in mid-November). Those old-ish 1er tries from Huet can be stunning.

Sante!

Burgundy is all about producer; the dureuil janthial wines are among the best white burgs regardless of location, and meix cadot is one of the best sites for white wine in the world.

[MChang]

That 90 salon really was a standout, we’re still discussing it!

[Andrew_K]

Very good luck. I’ve heard most from that era were long shot.

[MChang]

@Andrew_K

Very good luck. I’ve heard most from that era were long shot.

Yeah that’s why I was concerned. We had opened 90s of dom, Krug and Cristal at last year’s event and all the 750s were tired. This bottle had been kept at low temps (mid 40s) for quite a few years so that may have helped.

[dcornutt]

Great job guys!
Sounds like a couple of great days.

[MChang]

I’ve been thinking about the blind 09s a bit lately, and actually think that by the end of the night the Barthod was better. I think the Mugnier was an aromatic powerhouse and was initially so great, but I think freddy’s wines are better in vintages like 01 and 07 that weren’t quite as warm, while barthod may do better in warmer vintages and be ready a little earlier than in extremely structured vintages like 16.

[maureen_nelson]

@MChang

1990 Huet Mollueux Premiere Trie

Which vineyard?

[MChang]

Le Mont

[maureen_nelson]

Thanks. I was about to post a “never mind” after I saw the picture.

[Nick_Christie]

That evolution of the Barthod was my favorite evolution of the weekend. Fascinating wine. At the outset I felt like I could tell immediately, even with the quiet aromatics, that there was some real class in the fruit/mid-body of the wine… Probably added even more to my Blind confusion, actually . The depth and aromatics which developed completed the wine to a very, very high degree.

As we’ve talked about a lot, I’m often a little puzzled by some 2009 showings at this moment. You’re 100% right to emphasize it’s kind of remarkable how pure and restrained that Barthod was. A great reminder for the thread & posterity .

[MChang]

@Nick_Christie

That evolution of the Barthod was my favorite evolution of the weekend. Fascinating wine. At the outset I felt like I could tell immediately, even with the quiet aromatics, that there was some real class in the fruit/mid-body of the wine… Probably added even more to my Blind confusion, actually . The depth and aromatics which developed completed the wine to a very, very high degree.

As we’ve talked about a lot, I’m often a little puzzled by some 2009 showings at this moment. You’re 100% right to emphasize it’s kind of remarkable how pure and restrained that Barthod was. A great reminder for the thread & posterity .

Yeah I think they’re just one of those producers who make wine in a very classic way and it’s intended to be many years before they are ready. I had some 59 and 78 barthod 1ers that were really phenomenal.