Three of us joined forces to host a wonderful group of guests for an evening of great company, expertly prepared cuisine, and fine wines.
To start the night
I opened this while we were preparing for the event. There was enough to share with our guests upon their arrival.
- NV Laurent-Perrier Champagne Héritage Brut - France, Champagne
Another gorgeous bottle of Hêritage. Rich, with the malolactic fermentation softening the edges. White fruit, citrus, brioche, and Marcona almonds, with excellent balance and complexity.
The aromas, flavors, and texture resemble the Grand Siècle, but this drinks beautifully young, while in my experience Grand Siècle has incredible complexity and benefits from more bottle age.
About 55:45 Chardonnay to Pinot Noir, using reserve wines from 2019, 2018, 2016, and 2014. Four years on the lees and around 6 g/L dosage.
Classic pairing: Fresh oysters and Muscadet
- 2018 Domaine Luneau-Papin Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Excelsior Clos des Noelles - France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine
Opened to achieve a classic pairing with fresh Kumamoto oysters. I've loved the "L" d'Or in the past, so I had high expectations. I told the guests to expect a dry, acidic, saline beauty with more mineral than fruit. I was terribly mistaken. Softer and rounder than imaginable for a muscadet. More melon and pear than citrus, and no saline or oyster shell. I was left disappointed.
Champagne with our lighter dishes
- 2008 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne
A fortunate mistake for the guests. This had a "2007" neck tag, and since I own more '07 than '08, I assumed that's what I'd opened. I'd read credible notes saying the 2008 is shut down, and my bottle two months ago certainly was. But after a swirl, a sniff, and a taste, I thought, "Wow...this has to be my Champagne of the Year from 2007." Then I looked at the label and realized my mistake.
This bottle showed beautifully. One of the wines of the night, and perhaps one of my wines of the year. Typical Comtes' luscious mouthfeel, with ripe apple, lemon cream, buttery brioche, and a strong mineral streak. Beautifully balanced with outstanding complexity. I was honestly surprised how well this showed compared to my last bottle. - NV André Clouet Champagne Un jour de 1911... - France, Champagne
I wanted to contrast this Blanc de Noirs with the preceding 2008 Taittinger Comtes Blanc de Blancs. It walks the line between freshness and maturity beautifully. Generous notes of biscuit and ripe pear, plus apple, lemon zest, a touch of ginger, and even a hint of coffee bean. Rich yet vibrant and precise. Great wine, but hard to follow the Comtes.
100% Pinot Noir, aged at least six years on the lees in stainless steel and neutral oak. Dosage is in the brut range. No markings on the cork or bottle to identify the release. - NV Fallet-Dart Champagne Les Hauts des Clos du Mont - France, Champagne
I'd brought this as a backup bottle, but the weather and the cuisine called for another Champagne.
Dense mandarin, dried apricot, and brioche. Deep, rich and concentrated. I might say it's slightly inelegant, but it's from the warm '06 vintage, and it was quite enjoyable.
Burgundy/Pinot contrast, served with Duck and with Salmon
- 2005 Domaine Y. Clerget Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Verseuil - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
I'm down to my last two bottles from more than a case. These were an incredible bargain back in the day, and this was the best bottle yet. I opened it to pair with smoked duck breast and broiled salmon, and to contrast mature Volnay with a younger Sonoma Pinot.
Just gorgeous. Black cherry and moist earth, with hints of clove and violet. Silky, beautifully balanced, and still somewhat youthful. After all these years, these bottles continue to improve. - 2019 Arnot-Roberts Pinot Noir Heaven and Earth - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
Bright red fruit, a touch of spice, good balance, and nice cut. Easy to like, but hard to follow a beautiful mature Volnay.
Left Bank Bordeaux and Sierra Foothills Cabernet with Waygu
- 1986 Domaine de Chevalier - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
I opened this to help celebrate the birth year of the guest who had bid on the charity dinner. I pulled the cork and Audouzed the wine that morning, decanting it off the sediment just before serving.
This was shockingly youthful, both in appearance and in the glass. Barely a hint of amber at the rim, and far more fruit-driven than tertiary. Cassis, cherry, cacao, and spice. Light to medium-bodied for a Pessac-Léognan, yet beautifully balanced. Had I tasted this blind, I would have underestimated its age by decades. - 2001 Renaissance Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - USA, California, Sierra Foothills, North Yuba
I opened this alongside the remarkably youthful 40-year-old Left Banker to pair with Wagyu.
Like the Bordeaux, this was startlingly youthful. I told the guests it's a true cult wine, made by Gideon Beinstock during his time with the Fellowship of Friends in North Yuba, in the Sierra Foothills.
Also like the Chevalier, it showed far more youthful fruit than tertiary character. It came across as low in alcohol with bright acidity, yet everything was beautifully integrated. The tannins were still intense but never overbearing. Crunchy red and black fruit, great minerality, and outstanding balance. This was one of the host's WsOTN.
The more of Beinstock's wines I taste, the more I appreciate his talent as both a winemaker and a grower, and the more convinced I am that the Sierra Foothills is a seriously underappreciated appellation.
Last but not least, a beautiful dessert
- 2001 Château Suduiraut - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
We finished the night with dessert and this fine Sauternes. Suduiraut absolutely nailed the 2001 vintage. Honeyed botrytis, caramelized pineapple, orange marmalade, apricot, and warm brown spice. Fantastic wine.
I think everyone had as much fun as I did. It's always fun to collaborate with friends, meet new ones over great food and wine, all while supporting a great charity.
Posted from CellarTracker
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