Casual Saturday at Domaine (64 Thorin, 90 Burgaud, 11 Ilan, 71 SWG Eltville)

WINE TALK
1

SATURDAY FUN AT DOMAINE - Chicago, IL (11/15/2014)

  • 1964 J. Thorin Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
    Truffled and earthy nose with a good hint of stems. Very astringent and bizarrely, almost spicy (and not in the Vosne spice sense – literally spicy). The palate had a little of everything, but this completely fell apart with more air. Very, very tired. Drink up.
  • 1990 Bernard Burgaud Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
    Fantastic bright colour for such an old wine. Tons of life with fruit and some of those savory aged syrah elements. Very old school and restrained, but somehow still rich and plush. This can definitely be held for the long haul, but if you enjoy your syrah with a bit of fruit, why wait? (93 pts.)
  • 1971 Staatsweingüter Eltville am Rhein Steinberger Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Rheingau
    #45-72. No indication as to abv. Deteriorated cork that came out in one piece thanks to a Durand. Advanced golden colour. Very funky and musty smell initially, but with more air this definitely blew off to reveal some faint hints of ripe apricot and lychee. The palate has an auslese-level richness to it, but this comes off drier than a modern Kabinett. Still some good acid and fruit left, though this is definitely running towards the end of its life. Not bad. (90 pts.)
  • 2005 Domaine Georges Vernay Côte-Rôtie Blonde du Seigneur - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
    Another old-styled syrah, with some purple fruit showing more prominently. The nose still strikes me as one of a very young wine – this will need a lot of time to come together. When it does, it’s going to be awesome. A bit of animale on the palate, this finishes a bit astringently, which does take a bit of the experience away. (90 pts.)
  • 2011 Maison Ilan Charmes-Chambertin Aux Charmes Hautes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
    This promised to be an interesting wine but with a bit of air, the telltale signs of chemical weirdness from 2011 start to show up. Otherwise, there’s quite a bit to like here – this is dark and spicy balanced by some black fruit on the palate. Obviously young, this needs time, but the weird nose really doesn’t do it for me. I’d be much more interested in the 2010. (85 pts.)
  • 1993 Domaine Daniel Rion et Fils Vosne-Romanée - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
    Way too barnyardy for me. Some air helped blow a bit of it off, and on the palate, you can find some red cherry and spice notes. Strangely there was a herbal/cough syrup quality and none of the barnyard on the palate. But the nose, man, I just can’t…

Posted from CellarTracker

2

Fun time today - the 1990 Burgaud was really showing well - incredibly dense but refined fruit on the palate, with some great savory notes. The Ilan has potential, but has a stalky/herbaceous quality that, for me, keeps it from reaching the next level.

3

Interesting mix of wines - tried the Burgaud at Domaine a while ago and loved it. I’ve bought some more recent releases of Burgaud as a result, but they’ve all been so angular and tight. Hard to see if they’ll eventually turn the corner or if there’s been a change in winemaking style/technique.

4

I stopped by to do some work and grabbed a few snorts. My brief impressions and remember I left early.

I found the 64 Thorin lightly corked.

The 90 Cote Rotie was very nice. Amazing color and still a pronounced fruit profile. Ever so slightly over ripe for me. I’d give it a 90.

The 05 Cote Rotie again was nice. Still young with classic flavor profile. Again 90.

11 Ilan Charmes. My bottle if that matters to some. Kind of surprised to be honest. Decent fruit and very accessible. Light greenness indicative of the vintage. NOT LADY BUG TAINT. Better than the 11 Roumier Chambolle village Chris and I had on Tuesday. Reminds me a lot of 07’s.

5

It’s definitely not the ladybug, but it ain’t pleasant either. I don’t get reminded of the '07s by '11. '11 strikes me as darker, much less charming and pretty (disclosure: I didn’t taste many '07s on release), and simply put, worse.

6

Hmm funny. I prefer 11. More fruit to me. Plus I felt the 07’s were greener on release. I’m not hatin now. I’ve been using 07 burgs at business dinners lately to great effect.

7

I won’t hate on '11 either, but considering how much it goes for, backfilling time!

8

Can’t blame you. By the way if you don’t like them don’t drink em I say.