I know lots of people like this estate and I’m one of them - it has been a stalwart among the Cru Bourgeois I buy since the 80s. Nasty surprises are practically unheard of. Anyway, I wanted to try the 09 and the 15 together, because these are not what I would expect to be “my” sort of vintages, and in the case of the 2015, I really didn’t like the first bottle I tried in 2017.
Caronne Ste Gemme Haut Médoc 2009
Quite a candied nose of ripe blackcurrant, raspberry and vanilla, almost too much but not quite. Likewise, the taste is similarly lush at first, but thankfully the blackcurrant on the finish has enough freshness to ensure that it is not at all gloopy. In fact, I really enjoyed it, this is a more charming and winsome Caronne than the 05 or the 10, but no less classy. It does lack a bit of structure so perhaps not one for the long haul.
Caronne Ste Gemme Haut Médoc 2015
Much earthier and deeper on the nose, this had a blend of blackberry (maybe a little stalky) and dark cherry, with tobacco and herbs. The attack was completely different compared to the 09, with more crispness and less charm, before broadening into a fairly tannic middle section featuring some spicy blackberry reminiscent of St.Julien, then a very profound finish that lingered at the back of the throat. Really impressive. It needs a few more years, but this is one of the best I’ve tried from Caronne. It’ll be fun comparing it with the 2016 in the future.
Both wines were excellent, but the 2015 was the one I preferred. I think many people have the wrong impression about 2015 in general - it is not at all like 2009, on the basis of what I have tried so far. Here at least, the 2015 is like a hypothetical blend of the 2005 and the 2009 - and that suits me fine.
This estate is such an over-achiever. Both these wines are of CC standard and both cost 10€.
Sadly, the estate was sold in 2022 to Bernard Magrez. I fear the worst, knowing his track record. So it’s a good time to backfill!