Carignan Renaissance, Part Deux

Thanks, Jeff!

If you paid only $17 for the CarlislePapera Ranch” RRV Carignan, then you got quite a deal!!! I posted a TN on CellarTracker for the same wine, and thoroughly enjoyed it. :slight_smile:


January 15, 2016 - Carlisle Papera Ranch Carignan 2007: the rim of bottle around the cork had a white, crystalline lining, which I wiped off with a towel. The cork was ‘squishy’ and semi-saturated with wine. Nevertheless, this 8-year-old wine was a good, if not great, showing for Carlisle. Color was very deep purple. One guest declared that it was the best Carlisle she’d tasted so far (previous experience of 4 others). I tasted a pleasant ‘tart cherries stomped on by muddle work boots’ flavor, with a long, slightly alcoholic finish. I bought the bottle from an online auction about six-months-ago. I would guess that my Carlisle bottle probably saw a little rough handling in its lifetime, but it performed better than many wines on the market today.”


For the record, Carignan is higher in acidity than a lot of red grapes, thus making it a valuable contributor to the Zinfandel-dominant old-vine “field blends”. Some of the Bedrock reds consist of large proportions of Carignan (“Papera”, “Bedrock”, some vintages of “Evangelho”…); I am not sure which Carlisle reds - if any - have +30% Carignan in them, as Mr Officer’s wines often possess less than 10% of non-Zinfandel grapes.

Mr Michael Klouda of MK Wines responded to my email about his experiences with Carignan in the vineyard and the winery:


• What special factors in geology, climate, etc, do you find help make Carignan a viable grape for your area of California?


MK: “Here in Lodi we have extremely sandy soils that are also rich in loam. Carignan used to be planted all over the place and produced big crops with yields of 8-10 ton per acre or more I have heard. now there are very few Carignan vineyards left in Lodi but the ones that are still in the ground can throw a good crop with out proper thinning. We have hot days and cool nights in Lodi so it helps with the ripening of the grape.”
ChrisStormdaughter.jpg
• Do you believe that old-vine Carignan is necessary for the production of top-quality fruit, or can younger vines also yield superior wines?


MK: “To be honest, I have never seen a Carignan vine younger than 40 years. I would not know.”


• MK Wines has worked with Carignan fruit from the “Storm Vineyard”. Have you had experience with other Lodi Carignan vineyards? If so, which ones, and why have you chosen the Storm (and others) in particular?


MK: “I work for Michael David Winery as the viniculturist full time and over see all out vineyards. We have one block of Carignan that we get and it is a whole mother animal. The ‘Storm Vineyard’ is low-yielding and has tiny berry size, where the ‘Bishofberger Vineyard’ has large bunches and berry size and grows like crazy. It is also surrounded on 2 sides by irrigation canals. One of my projects this year is to hone in on that field to control the vigor and get better fruit out of it.”
BishofbergerVineyardCarignan.jpg
• Why do you think Carignan commonly proves to be more challenging to farm and produce than other Rhône-style varieties?


MK: “I don’t think in Lodi Carignan is a challenge compared to other Rhône-style wines.”


• Have you noticed any special qualities of Lodi Carignan compared with Carignan from other areas?


MK: "I only have had very few Lodi Carignans - maybe 5 in total. Seems to me the are all different depending on the vineyard and the winemaker.

“I try and have a light touch to let the grape express itself while others put Petite Sirah and Cab in theirs.”

email-img_carignane.jpg
• What special considerations have you discovered in producing a Carignan-dominant wine?


MK: “Pick at the right time! It is a hard one to get right. if you pick to soon even if the bris are 24-ish you get under ripe flavors but if you wait to long 26° brix, plus you might get jammy flavors and no acid. Also Carignan ripens late around here so you got to get it in before any rain.”


• What thoughts do you have regarding the recent increase in the public’s general awareness of Carignan’s potential to create delicious varietal wines?


MK: “I think a lot of the farmers I know who ripped out 40 acres of Carignan at a time a few years ago are kicking themselves in the ass when smaller wineries started offering them 4 times more than the district average for their grapes they no longer have.”


MK Wines website

Lodi Winegrape Commission blog
“MK’s Lodi Carignan is a Phenomenal Expression of this Underappreciated Varietal”
by Randy Caparoso
September 15, 2016

Just tasted the P&P Carignan and Pinot with Dan and Stephanie a few hours ago at Joe Webb’s beautiful spot, Foursight, in Boonville.

The wine is indeed delicious with a brambly bite complementing the juicy, lip-smackingly bright cherry/blackberry notes on the mouth.

Do yourselves a favor and order some of this wine.
3F3EF878-4C1E-4DB7-87EA-28751A8F4120.jpeg

Thanks for your impressions on the wines of The Princess & The Peasant, Jorge!!!

Their “Poor Ranch” Carignan blew me away!

Just opened a berserkerday P&P Carignan the other day, a delicious wine indeed!

But how do you pronounce it (or does that depend on where you’re from)?

ka-REE-nin

-or-

KA-ra-nin

??

It’s a French word. I think a French speaker would say “ka-hree-nyah”. Being French, there is no accented syllable, but I guess if you placed a slight accent, it might be the middle syllable.

Outside of France, I’ve always assumed it was “care-in-yawn,” but someone please correct me if I’m wrong.

Hi all,
I couldn’t help but notice the following statement (in post 54) about the preconceived idea of Cariñena (pronounced ‘car-i-NYEN-ah’): “… a meaty, reductive and rustic wine was the exception rather than the rule”.

Cariñena as you probably already know is a Spanish Denominación de Origen (DO) for wines located in Cariñena in the province of Zaragoza (Aragón, Spain).
Carignane (pronounced ‘karrin-YAAN’) is the identical cultivar found in Southern France and also in California.

The above statement about Carignane is interesting to me because I have reported previously on ResearchGate (DOI: 10.13140/RG.2.2.31177.65123) that the American hybrid cultivar, known as Jacquez (a.k.a. Black Spanish or Lenoir), was the result of hybridization between a wild Vitis aestivalis and one or more Vitis vinifera cultivars. This hybridization event likely took place on the southeast coast of the American colonies, sometime in the 18th century.

The microsatellite DNA fingerprint (simple sequence repeats or SSRs) of Jacquez shows that Jacquez was likely the result of hybridization between the wild aestivalis and the Vitis
vinifera cultivars Cabernet franc plus a second vinifera candidate identified as Carignan noir (both making up approximately 60% - 70% of the Jacquez genome).

It is common knowledge (at least in Texas) that dry red wine made from the Jacquez grape needs to be exposed to the air for a period of time before one should drink it. This is because the Jacquez wine is ‘reductive’ and ‘rustic’ in character and needs to be somewhat oxidized to improve the palate feel. Jacquez is also high in acidity and it reminds me of Cariñena.

Go well… :wink:

Dr Jerry Rodrigues

Thanks for your thoughtful contribution, Dr Rodrigues!!!

As a resident of Louisiana, I have tasted a “Black Spanish” red from Dry Comal Creek - it definitely needed a good amount of aeration prior to drinking!!!

Kaz Winery in California used to bottle a varietal “Lenior” from the “Pagani Ranch” in Sonoma Valley, but I never got my hands on a bottle.



I previously exchanged emails with Elina Coneva, PhD, of Auburn’s Department of Horticulture, as well as Jim Kamas, the
Asst. Professor & Extension Fruit Specialist for Texas A&M’s Agrilife Extension Viticulture & Fruit Lab.

My interest was related to their collaboration with Andy Walker (of UC Davis) to develop Pierce’s Disease-resistant winegrape selections that could be cultivated in the South. If my memory serves, Carignan contributed some genetics to the high-percentage-vinifera grapevine test materials for the fieldwork in Texas. It’s been a while since I have looked into any of this, however. :neutral_face:


Jim Kamas stated (in an email to me) back in January of 2016:

"We have worked extensively with the 88% material and will have our first full crop of four of his 94% selections. Our winemakers here really like some of the 88% [vinifera] stuff and we are anticipating that at some point, U.C. Davis will release them into the public domain."


UC Davis BFTV Cluster News
“Research Spot Light on Dr. Andy Walker: Classical Breeding is Conquering Pierce’s Disease”
August 15, 2017


Growing Alabama
“Development and Productivity of Pierce’s Disease Resistant Vitis Vinifera Grape Selections in Central Alabama”
January 19, 2016


Alabama Agricultural Experimental Station
“Specialty Crops to Boost Rural Economies”
by Dr Elina Coneva
October 28, 2015

Jeff Cohn Cellars has offered the varietally-bottled “Broken Compass” Carignane for several years. The grapes come from the old-vine Saitone Vineyard in Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley.
15BROKFT.jpg
From the website:

2015 Broken Compass Carignane

_"Amazing deep purple color, with a cranberry nose and touches of sweet oak and bramble and salted black licorice. Lush on the front palate, it shows a more rustic midpalate that screams for charcuterie and other dried aged beef, then rounds out with a savory finish.
\

  • Alcohol: 15.2%
  • 100% Carignane
  • Aged 16 mos in all neutral 350L to 600L French oak barrels"_
    Saitonevin65pic3.jpg
    "We have sourced from the Saitone Vineyard’s head-trained 130-year-old Carignane vines for 4 years now. The Huchica loam soil brings depth to this variety without being overly heavy. It seems to tame the Carignane and bring a zen-like component to the grapes through higher acid levels. Flavors of cranberry, and raspberry shine through with a very spicy bramble component. and layered complexity.

“Why do we source here? For the love of Old Vine Carignane.”[/i]



The recent release of the Jeff Cohn Cellars 2015 “Broken Compass” Carignane has received the praise of two critics:

“91 Pts Jeb Dunnuck: The 2015 Broken Compass is all old vine Carignane sourced from Sonoma County. It offers loads of black fruits, beetroot, violets, and resinous herbs in a medium to full-bodied, juicy, vibrant style. It has good acidity, fine tannin, classic Carignane character and is going to drink nicely for 5-6 years.”


“90+ Pts Wine Advocate: Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2015 Carignane Old Vine Broken Compass opens with baked blackberries and preserved plums notes with hints of pencil lead, fertile soil and dried herbs. Big, full-bodied, rich and firmly textured with chewy tannins, it has a tart, refreshing acid line and long, earthy finish.”




Jeff Cohn Cellars website: https://www.jeffcohncellars.com

Since 1999, the Buchignani Ranch, located in the North-West corner of the Alexander Valley AVA, has provided fruit for vineyard-designated Carignan wines for Ridge Vineyards.
2410-RDG-Sonoma-Cty-Map_Buchignani-Ranch.jpg
Buchignani Ranch profile on the Ridge Vineyards website:

History: “Stan Buchignani’s ranch is located on Dutcher Creek Road, in the hills on the far western edge of the Alexander Valley appellation. The majority of the vineyard’s carignane was planted in the 1940s. Stan’s grandfather, Dominico Cerruti, planted the first block in 1927; his father, Dino, planted the last in the early 1950s. The vineyard’s climate bears a strong resemblance to that of upper Dry Creek Valley three miles to the south, where days are warm. Fog, which tends to hang low in the valley, burns off sooner in the hills. Carignane from Buchignani is complex, its fine structure much like that of a field-blend zinfandel.”


Here are the producer notes for the Ridge VineyardsBuchignani Ranch” 2016 Carignan.

In 2011, Geyserville’s Triangle Vineyard also provided fruit for a vineyard-designated Ridge Carignan wine:

History: “Carignane is such an important part of our Geyserville that it is rare to have enough for a separate bottling. This is the first separate bottling from the hundred and ten-year-old Triangle block on the same stretch of gravelly soil that defines the entire Geyserville vineyard.”

I emailed questions to the staff at Ridge Vineyards in hopes of gaining better insight into the growing and production of Carignan wines. I am awaiting a response at this time.

On a side note after a concert saturday we ended up in Sabastapol on Sunday getting coffee across from PAX. So I had to stop in and taste…

My favorite of the flight was this Gem. Brought a few home for the cellar…

https://paxwine.com/detail?item=2016-pax-carignan-testa-vineyard-mendocino-county

Sean

Best approximation I can do of French pronunciation is:
Cah rih NYON. There is a very slight accent on the first syllable and a touch more of one on the last syllable.

Carinena [sorry, don’t know how to put a tilde on the first ‘n’], as pointed out, is both the Spanish name of the variety and the name of a D.O. Ironically, there is almost no Carinena grown in Carinena… it is maybe 2% of the vineyard. I am a great lover of this grape as I’ve stated. With the exception of the superb albeit oaky Puech Haut I mentioned before, the best Carignans I’ve had have come from Catalonia, both Spanish and French. The only better pure Carignan I have had than the Puech Haut was from Emporda, Spain, just over the border from France. I am the importer for the producer but did not bring the wine in. There were less than 100 cases and it had five strikes against it.

  1. pure Carignan
  2. almost unknown DO
  3. vintage with mediocre reputation in Catalonia (2011)
  4. one hundred bucks retail
  5. snake on the label
    Succeeding vintages have not been as good, but I will keep hoping.

As soon as it either cools down or I can get out there, I will try some of these California bottlings.

Dan Kravitz

Dan, I look forward to reading your additional information on Spanish & French Carignan/Carignane/Cariñena!

Had a 2015 Lioco Carignan that was very fun and fresh and only 12.5%. At $25bucks I think I’m going back for more.

Larry @ Tercero is doing 100% Carignan. It is light and elegant and somewhat floral. Nice for warm weather. Can’t think of another winery in SB or Paso doing this as usual Larry is pushing the boundaries and not satisfied with doing the just the typical. Not to mention the clear bottles that make wine look awesome.

Perhaps I should send an email “interview” to this guy.

Tercero sounds like a great winery - Mourvèdre and Carignan?!!? :slight_smile:

_20180716_180047.JPG

Lodi’s Carignan vineyards seem to be getting more attention from various wineries as of late, and I am searching for the identity of as many of them as possible.


[u]J&J Shinn Ranch[/u]:
Beautiful-Fall-Color-in-the-Carignan-400x267.jpg
"Mule Plane” Carrignane (really Carignan) – 5.25 acres (1930’s)

“As the story goes, when John’s grandfather (Grandpa Jack) was a child he remembered seeing his uncle planning this field with a mule before planting it to the Carignan vines that are still there now. Given this story, we estimate the vineyards planting to be sometime in the late 1920’s to early 1930’s making it one of the oldest in the Lodi area. These vines look every bit of their 80+ years being large and gnarly. However, they are still going super strong producing 7 to 8 tons consistently every year. We are very proud of this vineyard and it is finally getting some recognition. The M2 winery in Lodi and Holman Cellars in Napa have started sourcing fruit from here, and it is continuing to draw attention from other winemakers for quality and character. A majority of the fruit from this block is packed and shipped, by S&L Vineyards, back east for smaller winemakers and wineries to enjoy.”

Nathan Kandler also has purchased fruit from the “Mule Plain Vineyard” for his upcoming Precedent Lodi Carignan:

“The 2017 Carignan from John Shinn’s vineyard is beautifully aromatic, zesty, rich and intense in red cherry, even at just 12.1% alcohol… When you compare that wine to the Carignan from the old vines at ‘Jessie’s Grove’ (planted in 1900), you find a contrast of deeper, rounder, more layered fruit, with a richer strawberry character – distinct qualities from two vineyards that are not too far from each other…”


Besides the Lodi Wine Commission Blog, a valuable resource in locating Carignan vineyards of Lodi is the Lodi Growers directory search results for “Carignane”:

Gill Creek Ranch:
Borra/Markus Vineyards
1301 E Armstrong Rd, Lodi, CA 95242
Clements Hills AVA

Graffigna Fruit Company
PO Box 388, Lodi, CA 95241
Jahant AVA

J & J Shinn Ranch
PO Box 1051, Woodbridge, CA 95258
Mokelumne River AVA

Lock L Ranches, Lauchland Vineyards & Lauchland Ranch
5271 W Turner Rd, Lodi, CA 95242

Manna Ranch
775 E. Acampo Rd, Acampo, CA 95220

Mark Mayer

Rauser Ranch
19102 N Bruella Rd, Lodi, CA 95240
RauserVineyardtrunks.jpg

Steven Shinn
21700 N Davis Rd, Lodi, CA 95242

Villinger Ranch
4926 W Turner Rd, Lodi, CA 95242


The Lodi Growers directory makes no mention of a couple of old-vine Carignan sites, including the oldest operating vineyard in the area:

Jessie’s Grove
1973 West Turner Road, Lodi, CA 95242
CarignanJessiesGrove.jpg
Bishofberger Vineyard

Vino Farms

If you know of any other Carignan vineyards in Lodi that I have failed to identify, please point them out!!!

Guild Somm
“Cariñena: Guild of Sommeliers Report 2014”


"The Guild of Sommeliers sent six members to Cariñena DO/DOP in the spring of 2014 to discover this unexplored region in northeastern Spain, and report back on its wines, culture, and potential. Following is their story:
IMG_0335.JPG
"… Miranda Elliot:

"…Our next day took us up a long, winding road high up into the Sistema Ibérico mountains, where we arrived at Bodegas Paniza, and where we began our love affair with Cariñena. While Bodegas Paniza, like most of the producers in Cariñena, is a co-op (essentially groups of locals selling their grapes to the central winery), we were struck by the high quality of fruit—something we might not ordinarily associate with a co-op. This was, for most of us, our first intimate experience with the Cariñena grape from the Cariñena region. As a grape, Cariñena tended to show more red fruit along with an underlying—but not overpowering—gaminess. In fact, my favorite food-and-wine pairing of the trip was grilled Ternasco lamb (it’s actually a PGI itself, for lamb with a certain weight and age from this region) with Cariñena: The gaminess of each complemented each other while the bright red fruit offset the meat’s richness.

"Most wineries here have turned their attention toward Garnacha, as Cariñena is much more difficult to grow. But many of us agreed that Cariñena has more depth of flavor here, especially when it’s from old vines. As we were told more about the area, about how almost everyone there grows grapes for money, and about how the region has become pretty impoverished, it became clear that the switch from Cariñena to Garnacha is economically driven. Asking them to switch back to Cariñena is asking them to grow something that may taste better (to us) but that produces less quantity and therefore less income. It’s a tricky equation—and a sensitive topic—but we discussed the possibility of charging more for Cariñena: The quality is high coming from old vines, and it could be marketed as a unique grape from its ancestral home… It will be interesting to see where this region goes in the coming years as it undergoes this renovation period, modernizes its style and tries to find a new market and its own niche.
dink.jpg-600x0.jpg
"…Jeremy Campbell:

"…As for the Cariñena grape itself, this seems like a marketing no-brainer, given that there’s almost no other single-variety examples coming from anywhere else in the world. While this grape, which is most often used as blending agent to add acidity, did have a lot of acidity, that high acid is exactly what kept me coming back for more. Up against the ripe black fruit flavors and streak of savory dried herbs with iron at the core, that acid was like a cold glass of lemonade on a summer day—so refreshing and quaffable.[/i]

I received an email from Janell Dusi, president of J Dusi Wines in Paso Robles, with answers to my Carignan-centric interview questions:
Screen-Shot-2013-08-22-at-9.28.52-AM-300x183.png
• What special factors in geology, climate, etc, do you find help make Carignan a viable grape for the Templeton area of Paso Robles County?


JD: “The old-vine Carignane we have on the ‘Dusi Vineyard’ was planted in 1945 so it has endured the heat and droughts of our warm climate and is still thriving. It is dry-farmed and I think that helps intensify the fruit because it is later to ripen than the Zinfandel.”


• Do you believe that old-vine Carignan is necessary for the production of top-quality fruit, or can younger vines also yield superior wines?


JD: “Hmmmm, not sure. I do love my old-vine Carignane more than the young vines, but I am not sold that older vines are better. But since I only have two vineyards to compare on this particular varietal, yes I like the old vines better.”
home-slide3.jpg
J.Dusi has worked with Carignan fruit from the “Dante Dusi Vineyard”. What advantages and challenges have you experienced with growing/farming Carignan in your area, compared to Zinfandel and other grape varieties?


JD: “Carignane comes off the vine much later than the Zinfandel if picking for optimal ripeness. Carignane is more susceptible to bunch rot because the clusters are so tight.”


• Why do you think Carignan commonly proves to be more challenging to farm and produce than other Rhône-style varieties?


JD: “Large vines, big berries and tight tight clusters invite problems.”


• What special considerations have you discovered in producing a Carignan-dominant wine?


JD: “How people yearn to learn more about a varietal they have not heard much about…”


• What thoughts do you have regarding the recent increase in the public’s general awareness of Carignan’s potential to create delicious varietal wines?


JD: "I think it’s great… problem is that there still is not much planted in California!


"Janell Dusi
President & Winemaker
J Dusi Wines
Winery: (805) 226-2034
Cell: (805) 451-7944
"

old vine carignan.jpg
The Wine Write
“J Dusi’s New Perspective on Family Tradition”
by Randy Smith
June 22, 2015


"Tradition is one thing. Breaking from tradition is quite another.

"‘Dusi Vineyard’ in Paso Robles has been an acclaimed producer of old vine Zinfandel fruit for decades. But until recently, four generations of the Dusi family were solely farmers, not winemakers. It took a determined, headstrong young woman named Janell Dusi to break that tradition.

"…The Wine Write: I’ve read that your grandfather showed you the ropes of winemaking. Tell me about that.

Janell: I grew up on a one hundred acre vineyard of old vine Zinfandel…it was our backyard, our playground, everything. I’m in the fourth generation of farmers of those grapes. As I got older, I began asking why we didn’t make wine. The only response I got was, ‘Because we’re farmers.’ The older I got, the more I began to question. It’s hard work farming all year long; why wouldn’t we want to take some of our finished product and make some wine from it?

"I had prodded my grandfather when I was younger to show me the basics. I told him, ‘You have to know how to do this. Show me.’ So he taught me the fundamentals of winemaking.

dusi sunset.jpg
"…The Wine Write: The Dusi name is synonymous with quality Zinfandel in Paso Robles. What is it about ‘Dusi Vineyard’ that produces such good fruit?

"Janell: They say great wine starts in the vineyard, and that’s right. 80%-90% of the quality of the wine is in the fruit. For us, it’s the soil, the terroir, the location, the sun exposure, spacing, and drainage. The ‘Dusi Vineyard’ was planted to Zinfandel in 1925, and is still producing great fruit today. That’s a testament to my great-grandfather, and shows that the vineyard is just a perfect combination of all those factors.

"The Wine Write: The J Dusi label expands the lineup well past Zinfandel to include Rhones, Pinot Grigio, Carignan, Petite Sirah, and even even Port. Is that a market driven decision, something you just wanted to do, or what?

Janell: I’m passionate about Zinfandel, so I started there. But as a winemaker, I was always wanting to play with other varietals. Kinda like a kid in a candy store, you know? It’s sort of addicting, trying new things. It’s fun for me.'…"[/i]



Paso Robles Daily News
“J Dusi Tasting Room Now Open”
by Scott Brennan
August 30th, 2013


"…The tasting room is located on Highway 46 West at the former Edward Sellers Vineyards and Wines property, which closed recently.

“‘Finally, I am opening up a tasting room with my own production facility in Paso Robles,’ says Dusi. She is a local farmer and winemaker with deep family roots in the local wine region. Her specialty is Zinfandel. Previously Dusi had offered tastings at events around Paso Robles.

"…The new J Dusi Wines tasting room is located at 1401 Hwy 46 West, Paso Robles, CA 93446.

"…About Janell Dusi

"Janell Dusi was born and raised on the ‘Dusi Vineyard’ where her grandfather Dante taught her the old world Italian style of winemaking.

Dusi’s family’s heritage dates back to the early 1920’s, where grape growing has been a craft that has deep roots in the Dusi family. The farming practices that were implemented by her great-grandparents eighty-years-ago, are still the standard that they follow today. The unique, hand crafted quality of J Dusi Wines results from her intimate involvement in every step of the process: working in the vineyard, driving the tractor, hand picking my own fruit, crushing the grapes and fermenting the juice from the bins to the barrels to the bottle.

“‘One thing that I know for sure; winemaking is part science, part art and 100% passion,’ Dusi says.'…”

I had a rather tired bottle of 2007 Terre d’Ardoise Carignan VV [VdP Cotes Catalanes] over the weekend. It was faded at the edges, and rather leathery/sweaty/saddley on the nose. Pruney notes too. Should have been consumed younger, but was still sort of interesting. I remember having some raspy Corbieres in the 90’s that were like this. I’d give this a C+ or so.