California’s great old vine Zinfandel vineyards

Drew_Goin · January 29, 2022, 11:55pm

Has anyone heard of the “Sanchietti Vyd” in the Russian River Valley? Is this an old-vine planting?

from Wine Exchange retail site:

"Carlisle Zinfandel ‘Sonoma County’ 2019

"Once again, our Sonoma County Zinfandel rocks and delivers far more enjoyment and complexity than one would expect in a wine at this price point. For the base, we blended one of my favorite sections of Rossi Ranch, Schumacher Hill, with the 100-plus-year-old Zinfandel and mixed blacks of Sanchietti Vineyard in the Russian River Valley. Next, we found that blending in some of our Piner-Olivet Ranches Zinfandel really kicked things up a notch. Did we stop there? No way!

“A bit of our Pagani Alicante Bouschet and Mounts Petite Sirah elevated the wine even higher. How could the result be anything but delicious? Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 53% Sonoma Valley Zinfandel (Rossi Ranch), 42% Russian River Valley Zinfandel (Sanchietti), 3% Dry Creek Valley Petite Sirah (Mounts), 2% Sonoma Valley Alicante Bouschet (Pagani).”

The Sanchietti family owns different sites across Western Sonoma County. I recall the name being associated with Pinot Noir.

Prince of Pinot
Vineyard Profile: “Sanchietti Vyd”

Wine Industry Advisor
“Sonoma County Winegrowers Present Sanchietti Farming with Viticulture Award of Excellence for 2020”
July 20, 2020

“…The Sanchietti Ranch has been in the family for over 100 years and currently is being farmed by its 4th generation. When Luigi and Filomina Sanchietti settled on the land after immigrating from Italy, it was planted with Zinfandel grapes which were eventually replaced with fruit and nut trees, and a robust poultry business. In the late 1960s, demand for these crops declined, and premium wine grapes became the high-value crop that could provide the financial return needed to adapt to a changing market. Today the Sanchietti family tends 60 acres of Pinot Noir grapes on their home ranch and farms about 400 acres across the Russian River Valley…”.

Russian River Valley Winegrowers
Vineyard Profile: “Sanchietti Ranch”
1115 Irwin Ln, Santa Rosa

Sanchietti Farming website:
http://www.sanchiettifarming.com

ClydeUnderwood · January 31, 2022, 9:18am

The 1998 SCGGA RRV map shows the only Sanchietti vineyard as the vines adjacent to and southeast of the house at 4990 Occidental Rd. This is about 1000’ north of that Irwin Lane street address. The 2007 map shows the same plot plus additional vineyards going down to the Irwin Lane location. All these vineyards appear to be trellised at this time so they must be the pinot. The “100 plus” yo OV vineyards must be elsewhere “in the Russian River Valley”.

1998:

2007:

current google maps:

The Sonoma County veg map, which allows you to compare the current google map to 1942 aerial imagery, shows those vineyard locations as orchards in 1942:

Drew_Goin · February 8, 2022, 3:21am

I wanted to share this chapter from celebrated wine author Gerald Asher.

Google Books
Vineyard Tales: Reflections on Wine (1996)
by Gerald Asher
Published by Chronicle Books

“Zinfandel: California’s Own”

The following blog entry includes a short interview with Gerald Asher:

Vinography Blog
“Gerald Asher on Wine Writing”
by Alder Yarrow
February, 2011

Drew_Goin · February 24, 2022, 7:59am

About five months ago, Mr Joel Peterson posted the following on the Instagram account for Once & Future Wine Co.:

“In 1976, my first commercial wine at Ravenswood was Vogensen Vineyard. (Once) . This year, I crushed the last remaining fragment of that old vine vineyard again for the first time since 1981. (Future) . Thanks to Morgan, Lou Preston, and Katie who converted the Punchon to a fermenter for me (third photo, with Cody at Bedrock).”

Once & Future Wine Instagram post

Dry Creek Vineyards produces a single-vineyard Zinfandel from the “Vogensen Ranch”.
Dry Creek Vyds 2019 “Vogensen Ranch” Zinfandel

“Rising more than 800 feet off the valley floor, ‘Vogensen Ranch’ is located on the back of Bradford Mountain and is one of the more extreme growing sites in all of Dry Creek Valley. We have isolated a steeply sloped, well-draining area of the vineyard called ‘Barn Block’ to create this bottling for our single vineyard series. The undulating nature of the terrain and east-facing sun exposure provide grapes that are beautifully ripened and lead to a wine that is silky, textured and well-balanced…”.
Does anyone know the specific location of the “Vogensen Vineyard”?

What quantity of the site’s acreage is made up of the original planting?

Once & Future Wine Co. website:

Once & Future Wine Co. Instagram account:

S_Rash · February 24, 2022, 5:47pm

I picked up the book Vineyard Tales by Gerald Asher on Amazon two weeks ago! I haven’t started reading it though.

Drew_Goin · February 24, 2022, 7:54pm

Happy reading!

I have enjoyed several of Gerald Asher’s articles.

Only after having perused Vineyard Tales’ Zinfandel chapter did I realize it was Asher who first compared winemaking styles of the three R’s of Zin with classical music composers:

Ridge Vineyards = Bach
Ravenswood = Brahms
Rosenblum = Strauss

Drew_Goin · February 24, 2022, 8:52pm

I found a ZAP! Instagram post featuring “Winberrie Vyd” grapes from the 2020 vintage destined for Gamba Vineyards:

“This just in! The first Zinfandel fruit comes in from the ‘Winberrie Knolls Vineyard’ in Russian River Valley.”

ZAP! Instagram post:

Considering the size of this old-vine site, I wouldn’t have believed that “Winberrie” yielded enough fruit to serve more than a single producer. Then again, smaller plantings have provided grapes for more wineries.

Hartford Winery also bottles a single-vineyard “Winberrie Knolls Vyd” Zinfandel. According to one website, “Winberrie” was planted in 1906 on Piner Rd.

Historic Vineyard Society Profile: “Winberrie”

Zinfandel Advocates and Producers (ZAP!) website:
https://zinfandel.org/

ZAP! Instagram page:

Gamba Vineyards & Winery website:
https://www.gambawinery.com/

Hartford Family Winery website:
https://www.hartfordwines.com/

bddehn · February 24, 2022, 11:18pm

Deaver (1863), GrandPere-Terri Harvey (1869) but thought to be a little earlier. Both Amador County.

ClydeUnderwood · February 25, 2022, 9:09am

Drew,

The Vogensen vineyard is west of West Dry Creek Rd, south of Preston winery.

Comparing that 2007 SCGGA map with google maps, all the vineyards in that “Vogensen” location appear to be trellised in the google maps view. The only ones that appear to be head pruned are north of there just to the west of the old house at 9101 W Dry Creek Rd. The 1998 SCGGA map shows the Vogensen vineyard in the same location as the 2007 map above.

Regarding the Winberrie vineyard, I suspect (but don’t know for sure) that Hartford didn’t make any Winberrie in 2020. I’m picking up my bottle of 2019 Winberrie there in a couple of weeks. I’ll ask them about the status of their 2020s. If I remember correctly, they said they didn’t make much 2020 wine.

Drew_Goin · February 25, 2022, 11:51am

Thank you once again Clyde!

All current info - aside from Joel Peterson’s Instagram post - led me to believe that “Vogensen Vyd” had been replanted.

ClydeUnderwood · February 26, 2022, 9:11am

A closer inspection of the google maps view of the vineyards adjacent to the house at 9101 West Dry Creek Rd as well as the street view of them reveals they are indeed very old looking head pruned vines. There are some right next to the west side of the road.

At least they were there as of April 2019 when the street view cam car drove by.

The 2007 map I attached in my prior post shows this area with the old head pruned vines as the Everest vineyard, just to the north of the Vogensen vineyard. In the 1998 map they appear to be called out as the Scharf vineyard instead of Everest.

Drew_Goin · February 26, 2022, 2:45pm

Thanks for chiming in!

There was some conflict a few years ago over ownership of the “Grand Pere” name. It presumably has been resolved, but I couldn’t tell you about the details.

Here is an article which includes several of the oldest vineyards in the Sierra Foothills:

The Free Library
Wines & Vines
“Sierra Foothills Zins: Clones vs Terroir in Heritage Vineyard”
by Kenneth Young
January 1, 2006

“…Sierra Foothill Heritage Vineyards”
"Aparicio: On Sutter Ridge six miles east of Sutter Creek, Aparicio Vineyards was planted in 1934. Joe and Iris Aparicio still farm the family vineyard.

"Deaver: Planted in the early 1880s, the 14 acres of gnarly old vines continue to produce 3-4 tons of grapes per acre. Cuttings from Deaver vines were used to propagate many of the older vineyards in the Shenandoah Valley. Deaver Clone bud wood is available from several commercial nurseries in northern California. Deaver Clone on St. George or 110R rootstock is known as a sturdy, warm climate, drought-resistant Zinfandel vine, ideal for foothills vineyards.

"Dal Porto: In the heart of Amador’s Shenandoah Valley, off Shenandoah School Road, the vineyard was planted in the 1920s by the Dal Porto family. About 8 acres of the original vineyards still provide excellent fruit for foothill wineries.

"Eschen: Over the ridge from the Shenandoah Valley is the tiny community of Fiddletown and its unique Zinfandel vineyards. Started as the Esola vineyard in 1913, the original vineyard was lost to phylloxera. The old Eschen vines are now pushing 50 years, but are slowly being lost to the dreaded pest. Eschen fruit goes into several high-end Northern California Zinfandels.

"Ghirardelli: Five generations of Ghirardellis have tended the 100-plus-year-old, head trained, unirrigated vineyard east of Spring Valley in Calaveras County. This vineyard is the lowest in elevation of the heritage vineyards, and is in a hot region (Region 4). Ghirardelli grapes are sold primarily to Calaveras County wineries.

"Higgins: The lone El Dorado County contribution to the heritage selection is the 1-acre Higgins vineyard near Fair Play. The Higgins family planted vines among their fruit trees in 1908, and provided grapes to home winemakers in the foothills. In recent years, Granite Springs was the primary beneficiary of Higgins fruit. Even though the vineyard was pulled out a few years ago, cuttings from Higgins live on in the Oakstone vineyard.

"Lubenko: Across the street from Eschen, the Lubenko vineyard was planted around 1910, and provided cuttings for the original Esola vineyard. The Fiddletown AVA is a bit higher in elevation (1,700 feet) than Shenandoah Valley, and has two different soils. Lubenko is on Sites Series soil derived from schist and brownish in color. Eschen is on Shenandoah sandy loam from decomposed granite with a reddish color. Sobon Estate now owns Lubenko vineyard, which provides grapes for its Fiddletown Zinfandel.

"Steiner: The 2-acre vineyard was originally planted in the early 1970s from cuttings taken from the famous original Grandpere vineyard, just across Steiner Road. Located in northeastern Shenandoah Valley, original Grandpere is thought to be the oldest surviving Zinfandel vineyard in Amador County. Probably planted in the late 1860s or early 1870s, the former 9-acre Downing Vineyard continues to produce 3 tons per acre, as does the offshoot Steiner Vineyard now owned by the Deaver family.

“Upton: Sadie Upton’s 6-acre Zinfandel vineyard was planted in 1922. Located on the north side of Shenandoah Valley, Upton fruit goes into several Amador County Zinfandels including Karly Sadie Upton Zin. Sadie has passed on, but the family still owns and carefully farms the precious old vines…”.

Drew_Goin · March 2, 2022, 10:49pm

Do any of the old-growth vines at Livermore Valley’s Ruby Hill Winery survive?

In Charles Sullivan’s Companion to California Wine, Ruby Hill Vineyards is said to have had around 220 acres of productive grapevines by the 1880s. Much of the property was replanted in the 1920s under the ownership of Ernest Ferrario.

However, according to Sullivan, some vines dating back to between 1896 and 1913 remained in the ground until the 1960s. The fruit from many of the older plots contributed high quality producers from 1974 to 1983. The historic winery burned down in 1989. Afterwards, much of the land was converted into a residential/country club development.

Today, there exists a Ruby Hill Winery on the site of the original structure. I do not know whether any of the estate vines date back to pre-Prohibition days.

Ruby Hill Winery
“About Us”
"In 1885, John Crellin planted vineyards into a red clay knoll and named it Ruby Hill after the rich red soils found throughout the property. Construction of Crelin’s Winery Building was completed in 1887, with a capacity to produce 125,000 gallons of wine. By 1889, Ruby Hill Winery was one of the largest and most revered producers of wine in the Livermore Valley.

“Today our 150 acre vineyard is planted with eleven varietals including: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel, Sangiovese and Petite Sirah.”
eLivermore
Livermore History - Wineries: Ruby Hill

Photos: Ruby Hill Winery

"The original three-story Ruby Hill Winery was built in 1887 by John Crellin. His son Charles Crellin took over when he died, and sold the vineyard to Ernest Ferrario in 1921.

“In the 1970s the winery was sold to the Southern Pacific Railroad. In 1975 Stony Ridge Winery was established at Ruby Hill by Harry & Leonard Rosingana, leasing the winery from Southern Pacific. Lanny Replogle, now owner of Fenestra Winery, was the winemaker. The winery was sold to Computerland in 1982 with plans to build a training campus. Friends of the Vineyards was formed to prevent this and other land from being lost from viticulture.”

"On November 8, 1989, the winery burned, leaving only the front and back walls. It sat until May 18, 2002, when it was demolished. The bricks from the original winery have been used to cover the front and sides of the new winery.

“The west side of the new winery is home to the Mitchell Katz Winery. The east side of the new winery is used by Wente for storage of barrels of aging wine.”

California Digital Newspaper Collection
Santa Cruz Sentinel, Vol 127, # 273
"Mead on Wine: Ready for Goliath "
by Gerry Mead
November 21, 1982

Also, whatever became of Randall Grahm’s mid-90’s plan to move Bonny Doon Vineyards to Ruby Hill?

California Digital Newspaper Collection
Santa Cruz Sentinel, Vol 139, # 181
"Rhone Ranger’ Moving On: Bonny Doon Vintner Moving to New Site"
by Erin K Quirk
June 30, 1996

“…‘The soil in the Livermore Valley,’ [Randall Grahm] said, is ‘gravelly and interesting,’ much like the soil in Graves an area in the Bordeaux region of France. ‘Gravelly soils seem to be very special for grapes,’ he said. After serious renovations, Bonny Doon will move into the former Ruby Hill Winery in Pleasanton. The winery itself was built in the 1880s but burned down several years ago. ‘We’re talking major rubble. It needs to be built from scratch,’ he said…”.

Sean_Devaney · March 3, 2022, 8:55pm

Randall pulled out of the purchase from Wente after having a feng shui consultant look at the property if I remember correctly.

Drew_Goin · March 7, 2022, 1:03am

I would laugh at your response if it concerned anyone other than Randall Grahm!

I seem to recall that he also had a series of small “test blocks” in the Lodi area. Various grape varieties were explored for their potential inclusion in Bonny Doon Vineyards’ program…?

I will try to find a source to confirm this.

Drew_Goin · March 7, 2022, 1:12am

While reading a book this evening, I found a fascinating bit of information.

Trivia Question:

Who owns the largest contiguous planting of old, own-rooted, head-trained Zinfandel vines in California?

Sean_Devaney · March 7, 2022, 2:00am

I don’t remember any test plots in Lodi owned by BD but it wouldn’t surprise me if he convinced some growers to plant or graft over a vineyard or two. I believe he started buying grapes in Lodi in 1984 with purchase of Cinsault from the Bectel vineyard for Le Cigare Volant. Randal did plant the Ca’ Del Solo (maybe also known as bee’s wax for Rhone varieties) as I am sure you know

Sean_Devaney · March 7, 2022, 3:03am

I don’t remember any test plots in Lodi owned by BD but it wouldn’t surprise me if he convinced some growers to plant or graft over a vineyard or two. I believe he started buying grapes in Lodi in 1984 with purchase of Cinsault from the Bectel vineyard. Randal did plant the Ca’ Del Solo (maybe also known as bee’s wax for Rhone varieties) as I am sure you know
Edit to the first Cigare didn’t have any Cinsault so 1984 date is too early.

ClydeUnderwood · March 7, 2022, 9:25am

Regarding Winberrie, I picked up my bottle of 2019 Winberrie at Hartford today and they said they only made a total of three 2020 red wines and I don’t think any of those were from Sonoma county. So that would explain why the Winberrie fruit went to Gamba.

Don said all the estate owned fruit in Sonoma county was bulked out. It ran the gamut from immediately and obviously smoke tainted (surprisingly Seascape, way out on the coast) to more subtle. They did testing and micro ferments and all, but ultimately decided not to risk it and are only releasing SRH and Anderson Valley pinots and one other that escapes me. The Chardonnay was fine since there was minimal skin contact.

Drew_Goin · March 9, 2022, 11:08pm

Hartford is bottling only three reds from the 2020 vintage?!?

2017’s fires certainly had a negative impact on Sonoma County - bordering on biblical in scope. Nevertheless, Hartford released its single-vineyard Zin line-up from RRV’s Wood Road area. On the other hand, I read that upwards of 95% of Sonoma County grapes were harvested before the fires of October, 2017.

The 2020 fires were earlier in the season, of course. As climatic conditions increase the probability of droughts and fires, I suppose wine lovers will determine which producers are doing their due diligence concerning QC…if they have not done so already.!

I often worry about you West Coast folks, that is, when my mind isn’t preoccupied with the ongoing plague.

Resources on California’s Fires:

NASA Earth Observatory
“Assessing California Fire Scars”
by Michael Carlowicz
October 14, 2020

NASA Earth Observatory
CA Fires, Part 1: “What’s Behind California’s Surge of Large Fires?”
by Adam Voiland
September 13, 2021

NASA Earth Observatory
CA Fires, Part 2: “A Multi-Dimensional Fire Challenge”
by Adam Voiland
September 21, 2021