It’s always a surprise when there’s a new Calera newsletter released, because it happens pretty rarely. The last one was in 2007. But it’s a treat too, because Josh Jensen has crafted some great and provocative essays for them over the years. Much better reading than your average rundown on the new vintage and bottlings.
This particular essay (available here) discusses the difficulty of dealing with the 3-tier system from a winery owner’s point of view. Some particular insight into the frustration of selling wine to the “communist” States and Canadian provinces that have government run wine shops. According to Jensen, it’s significantly more of a pain in the ass to sell wine in some States than it is to sell it overseas. The result is that 45% of Calera’s production gets sold out of the US. That’s a staggering figure. I wonder if there are many (any?) other wineries that can claim the same. I know it’s a very popular brand in Japan. Didn’t someone dig up a Japanese wine comic a few years back that features Calera wines? Anyone remember?
Edit: Anyone who hasn’t read one of Jensen’s newsletters before should also take a few minutes to read the one titled “Attack of the Perfume/Cologne Wearers”. It’s an absolute gem. Even if you have read it before, read it again. It’s hilarious.
Excellent read, Jamie. Thanks for the link. The bureaucracy that surrounds the sale of alcohol in many states is staggering. Texas, the bastion of deregulation, has some of the most cumbersome regulations concerning the sale and consumption of alcoholic beverages. Come on, people, it’s just food.
Josh is quickly becoming my new American-born, winemaking hero. His dedication to planting Pinot in limestone soils and maintaining quality over production numbers has my interest peaked, and the ageworthiness of his wines is staggering (even if off years!).
I think Parker calling Calera the DRC of California has sparked a ton of international interest, particularly in Asian markets. Whenever Parker bangs one of his wines with a big number, the same guys who call me for Petrus, Lafite, Duhart, etc, start calling for Calera.
I’m a huge Calera fan and still have about 6 bottles of the 87 Jensen in my cellar. Had one last year and it was ethereal. Had an 85 in May that was also in excellent form.