Pulling out old wines is often a crapshoot, but the gods smiled on us this evening, as I am sure Bruno did as well. A stunning line-up of wines provided thrills throughout the evening as we moved from one great wine to another. Six of us were at the table, which allowed us to revisit wines as the evening progressed and a random call for wines resulted in a lineup for the evening that certainly rewarded and warranted revisiting.
We ended up with a comparison of two important vintages, 1978 which can certainly be regarded as a milestone vintage, and 1990, which, while irregular, has produced some stunning wines. If asked in abstract i would generally regard 1978 as both more classic as well as more consistently great than 1990, but on this evening, with this group of wines the 1990s edged out the 1978s on my scorecard. The sheer joy of the fruit the 1990s continue to possess paired with the skills of Bruno have resulted in wines that can thrill both the hedonist and the intellectual in me. There is no doubt that the 1978s were more complex, nuanced wines, but at the same time they retain some of the hard tannins that are emblematic of the vintage.
Of course provenance plays some role here, and while all the wines showed exceedingly well, the provenance of the 1990 Asili was both known, and known to be exceptional. The 1990 Barolo Collina Rionda came from my cellar and was purchased on release. Both wines offered superb showings this evening. In fact we did not have a loser all night long, though the 1989 Villero was perhaps slightly less than a perfect bottle, which can also be said for the 1990 Santo Stefano Barbaresco as well.
Besides having had a near perfect evening with close friends, what else can one say about this event. As I have lead off with, it shows any who passed over the wines that they made a mistake. It reaffirms Bruno Giacosa’s place at the very top of any winemaker hierarchy, and it make a strong argument for Nebbiolo’s supremacy in the wine world. Other than that, this was all just a little bit of fun.
Now on to the wines; they were served in horizontal flights, with the 1989 Villero serving as an aperitif. We served the 1978 flight first, and I believe all the wines were double decanted about 10-12 hours before service.
1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Villero
A bit advanced nose, which shows early aromas of bouillon and rosewood. Air helps as rose petal notes emerge with time along with slightly roasted black cherry fruit. Ripe and weighty early in the mouth then packed with dry extract and tannins are slightly dry. There’s real depth to the black cherry fruit and licorice fruit on the palate. At peak. I would like a slightly fresher nose but this sweetens up nicely on the palate and shows real persistence on the finish with hints of bitter almond and mint adding detail, though the dry tannins peak out on the finish. 92pts
**1978 flight
1978 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva **
This still needs some air. Aromas of anise seed, dried rose petals and crushed rock grace the nose followed by perfumed white floral notes. Gorgeous in the mouth. Dusty tannins lay under lovely tart red fruit that gains a slightly jammy strawberry edge with air. The aromatics here are off the charts, slightly smoky toned then turning spicy and intensity with air. The palate picks up a nice mineral edge, slightly metallic perhaps, that adds real verve through the the moderately long finish which ends with a slight celery seed finale. This might continue to improve but I think the tannins will outlive the fruit. Drink this over the coming decade. 97pts
1978 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Villero Riserva
Low on the nose. Rather medicinal with mint, worn leather, and sweet violet pastille aromas. Resolved on the palate with a core of earthy, clay driven, fine cranberry and cherry flavors. A bit matte and slightly vegetal in the mouth. Smooth and rich in the mouth, and improving markedly over the course of the evening. This lacks a touch of energy through the palate, a bit matte in the mouth with more weight than the Rionda, but it’s slightly rustic in comparison, lacking the sheer elegance and exquisite balance of that wine. Still, there is a great core of fruit here, framed by note of leather, white pepper, and clay. After hours of air this opens up with huge spice seed and dried herbal, peppery aromatics. Gorgeous mineral laden bitter black cherry fruit shows freshness and transparency after all. 97pts
1978 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Collina Rionda Riserva
Shit. Not as in this smells of, but rather one is immediately blown away by, and cool, coiled black cherry, mint and white soil aromas that this so willing gives up. So elegant and complete, with tension in the mouth and near perfect balance. The tannins remain firm here but superbly integrated into rich bitter cherry fruit that shows off notes of bay leaf, licorice, and fennel. Long and sinewy through the fruit laden finish. This is just stunning with both fruit on the palate and intense retro-nasal aromatics. 99pts
1990 Flight
1990 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili Riserva
Very floral and intense on the nose with green fennel seed and tart red fruit aromas that gain complexity from nuanced dusty rose petal and white chocolate notes that are the only indiction of the sheer ripeness to come. Wow, this is seamless, complete, rich, complex, and nuanced. What a texture. There’s no sign of 1990’s heat here except for the remarkably silky yet deep mouthfeel. Deftly marrying intensity, transparency, and delicacy, there is nothing but joy here right through the long finish, inflected with mineral, brazil nut, and blood orange accents that linger with striking intensity on the finale. The wine of the vintage. 100pts
1990 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Collina Rionda Riserva
A bit tight. On the nose with early aromas of leather and spice that are joined by freshly tilled earth with air. This is a bit of a surprising wine, for years it showed a slightly oxidized character but about five years the nose magically cleaned up. This is not only my observation but has been corroborated but at least two other palates well versed with the wine. On the palate this offers great freshness and acidity. So much cherry fruit tinged with gauzy licorice and stone notes, yet so elegant for the vintage; nuanced and long with this gentle intensity that comes and recedes over the finish. This remains youthful, and should offer enjoyment at this level for another two decades. It is very likely the Barolo of the vintage. 98pts
**1990 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva **
A touch sweetly oxidized on the nose with early aromas of sweet gum. In the mouth too this shows oxidative character, there’s great length but a little raisin and prune character that detracts from the overall experience and in this company it does not compete. A very good wine, but lacks freshness has a bit of a back-palate drop off. Not perfectly sound. 90pts
2007 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili Riserva
This was a gift at the end of a long evening out of 3 liter. The nose was sweet, woody, and off-putting. In the mouth there is a more attractive palate, rich with fruit and generally well balanced, but this lacks any sense of finesse or elegance and is sweet and a touch clumsy. One can argue that this will improve but it’s starting from a rather disadvantageous position and, Bruno’s abilities not withstanding, I would not expect miracles. 89pts on a good day.
Additional commentary on the evening can be found here:Celebrating Bruno Giacosa's Life and Work - Simply Better Wines