BRUNCH AT FORMENTO’S - Chicago, IL (9/6/2015)
Formento’s is definitely one of my favourite places in Chicago for quality comfort food.
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2012 Domaine Guiberteau Saumur Clos de Guichaux - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur
Initially, I was a lot less gung-ho about this wine than what all the email lists would suggest. There was a very primary quality about this – all white grape juice. A bit of lemon and crushed rock to round things out; but with air, and time, this started strutting more of its stuff. More exotic notes (Asian pear?) started to show. I love the acidity on this, and the oak usage here, like Rougeard’s chenin blanc, is extremely judicious. Our discussion came around to a final point about this: since these are new releases, they get put in the front of the cellar, and pulled for drinking prematurely. This would be a mistake. Our suggested solution is to just buy so much you never run out. (93 pts.) -
1993 Vietti Barolo Lazzarito - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Well, isn’t this just an archetypal Barolo. Earth, florals, and red fruit abound. Yes, we popped and poured it, but this didn’t suffer very much for that treatment. This was ready to go from the start. The palate was very light, with juicy acidity and softer tannins. Definitely ready to go now, though well-kept bottles are in no danger of decline. (93 pts.) -
2002 Domaine Michel Gaunoux Corton-Renardes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
I had some pretty high expectations for this, given the high praise for this from a certain person who was present when I bought the case. On the nose, there’s definitely a sappy quality about it – the ripe sappy fruit of 2002. Fortunately, this is all held in check by a pretty big frame (runs in the Corton family, I guess). I think this is in need of more time in the cellar, and I suspect that this will turn out to be a very nice 2002 red Burgundy in the end (say, a decade from now). If anything, the value of this wine cannot be understated… basically, this was a bottle where all the raw bits are there, but they haven’t yet been put together yet. (88 pts.) -
1990 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
#16-91, 8% abv. This had a slightly advanced colour (you’d think, by now, I’d get used to seeing that in older riesling), but the tinge of green in the gold was promising. The nose initially was all gasoline (or whatever that old riesling smell is), giving way to cooked pineapple and green herbs. The palate is definitely Spaetlese in sweetness, and not overwrought at all. It’s simultaneously powerful and elegant – absolutely graceful and silky. Racy green-apple acidity to drive everything home. What a Spaetlese… (95 pts.)
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