Blind TNs: 1994 Colin-Deleger Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot, 1995 Colin-Deleger Chassagne Montracher Les Vergers (and Amoureuses, Clos Saint Jacques and more)

Had some of the guys over last night for a blind burgundy night. For once, we played by the rules and stayed on theme! No wildcards. It can be done. Blind tasting is always so humbling and edifying.

Highlighting here two of the wines as a nice coincidence happened as without previous discussion, @Mike_Evans and I both brought mid- '90s Colin-Delegers. The '94 remarkably still has some room to unwind and the '95 is giving what it’s got. Both wines over-performed expectations.

There was a lot more very good wine (see below). I was too busy playing host and chef and almost burning down my kitchen- so not a lot of notes/pics from me this time. @Steve_McL @rob_klafter @RKatz can chime in. Thanks, guys - another good one!

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Amoureuses always so silky- this needs much time- as does the Esmonin CSJ - both so much potential


Sorry, not sorry, probably my WOTN: Thanks Hans-Gunther Schwarz

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Looks like you had a fun night, Dennis. Understand that a well-performing M-C can steal the show. Toddlercide to open the Amoureuses, but glad it showed its potential :slight_smile:

All my best to the Atlanta crew.

Mike

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Thanks, Mike! Hope you are well.

Thanks again for hosting and feeding us! These nights never disappoint and this was no exception.

I’ll throw out brief impressions on a few of the other wines. The 2002 P. Matrot Meursault-Perrieres seemed a little blah at first but came out nicely with air. The 2018 Marc Morey Chassagne Caillerets was one of the better 2018 white Burgs I’ve had and validated my long appreciation for the producer.

I liked the 2018 Drouhin Chambolle 1er Cru despite it being a little candied but the quality difference with the Amoureuses was readily apparent blind. I was generally pleased with the 1998 Geantet-Pansiot Chambolle 1er Cru but will revisit it tonight for a final TCA check. The dueling 2005 Leclercs (2005 P. Leclerc Gevrey Champeaux and 2005 R. Leclerc Griotte-Chambertin) were surprisingly approachable for both 2005s and Leclercs, but I think I preferred the Champeaux.

For a final note, Dennis’s braised short ribs with roasted vegetables provided a terrific match to the reds.

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Thanks for filling in the gaps, Mike! Some great wines last night. Forgot about the 18 Marc Morey.

Memory lane …. I used to love those mid 1990s Colin Delegers. First white Burgs I ever bought. Gulped as I paid $40 for a bottle of WHITE wine! :joy:

Whatever happened to the domaine? I never see bottles anymore.

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Good question! A little bit of info: Domaine Colin-Deléger | Our Wines | Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant

Wonderful as always. Don’t forget the pizza! Dinner and a show.

The drouhin amoureuses was VERY. Impressive. Particularly instructive blind with the 1er next to
It. It has a velveteen mouthfeel that really spoke to me. It reminded me of a 2003 roumier amoureuses I once tried. Same structure. Speaks well for where it will end up but totally singing now. Thanks all

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Nice to read about healthy Colin-Deleger–seems almost like an oxymoron. My first introduction to the premox scourge was a batch of 1995 Colin-Delegers.

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Veronique Drouhin’s wines are all about texture. Her wines have some of the best mouthfeel in all of Burgundy IMO.

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Truly. It’s a sensation of structure and density in the mouth but when toungue presses against palate the wine explodes and dissolves. Remarkable

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Thanks to @Dennis_Atick for hosting another bodacious gathering.

I was struck once again that for me, the best tasting experiences involve the ingredients of:
-Good food (Flintstonian short ribs, on a puree of cauliflower)
-Generous fellow travelers on the wine road (not too many)
-A clear theme and some attention to interesting/meaningful comparisons (ie: Same producer-different years or vineyards, Young vs: Old)
And…dare I say it? Blinding some/all of the wines.

Blinding was instructional, helping us to pay closer attention and inviting genteel discourse, or in our group, raucous good-natured joshing. It had us thinking about ballpark vintage, and whether or not something was premoxed versus simply old. It was a small amount of fun rigor that kept the night interesting.

I am a Chambolle guy, so the Amoureuses vs. 1er blend comparison was my idea. Did Amoureuses live up to the hype? For me it did, though its clear the real potential for complexity and development is years away.
Was the 1er blend lousy? By no means- just overshadowed.

  • 2018 Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (11/19/2023)
    Dense rich-fruited nose
    Similar palate: Savory, dense, rich ripe black cherry fruit, reduction/graphite a bit at first, silky smooth. Low-mod tannins and acid. 13% Alc.
    Delicious. All about the fruit right now and great potential for positive development.

    Double-decanted 2 hours before tasting- It did not fade at all.

    In the name of science, we tasted this blind against the Drouhin’s 18’ 1er Chambolle blend. The 1er blend was good, but the Amoureuses just had another gear, even at this young stage. (95 points)
  • 2018 Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (11/19/2023)
    Bright black cherry fruit with a touch of oak/vanilla, salty wood notes, med. tannic grip and low-med acid. 13% Alc.

    This 1er blend is a perennial favorite in our house, but needs time at this stage for the oak to integrate I think. According to the Drouhin website, “Since they are too small, these Premier Cru vineyards (Noirots, Hauts Doix, Borniques, Plantes, Combottes) are harvested and vinified together.”
    (92 points)

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Drouhin website notes, 2018 Chambolle Musigny 1er

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Nice recap @Steve_McL Thanks for the Amoureuses tease! your Chambolle is always welcome.

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I think Veronique Drouhin-Boss handled the ripe 18’ vintage well with these two.

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Nice showing!

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