Blind Tasting of some CF and One Blend: '24 Dakota Shy, '23 Bevan, '22 Detert East Block, '23 Dorsey, '16 Realm Falstaff, '19 Olga Raffault Les Picasses

First of all a shout out to Otto (a great contributor to this board in my opinion) and his post on why (specifically New World) CF sucks.

A couple of salient quotes:

“Big, ripe and impactful wines with lots of oak.” Yep check that one off!

“In such massive fruit bombs, you really can’t see any varietal typicity - just generic, anonymous big wine flavors.” Not so quick to come to this conclusion.

I think he makes a great point that CF does well in cooler climates and questions why basically force something where CS would suffice and probably outperform. I think it is a great take and worthy of challenging with one’s taste buds.

All the wines were double decanted a few hours before the tasting and brown bagged. I tasted them all and as usual it didn’t really help me that much. My tasting group is not super sophisticated but they are not neophytes either. One has a strong love of Italian wines including Brunellos which means if anyone really found the Chinon better than the rest he would be the one. Didn’t happen. In fact the Chinon was last place for all seven of us. Does that just mean we all love the baby taste? I didn’t find the CFs spineless, they remained fresh but certainly not brisk like the Chinon. Another surprising point was no one really liked the Realm either - also close to last place. And it certainly had a bit of tannin in it, that gave it a stronger finish than the others and seemed more typical of a New World Cab.

But the four new world CFs did share a lot of similarities - they were kind of soft and plush, very rounded but with nice velvety finishes. There was a bit of restrained flowers and herbs to them but certainly not any MOPs to be found. I would argue that there remained a bit of typicity although in deference to Otto certainly muted.

If you wanted to bash them certainly you could say the four were a bit generic. I called the Realm and the Chinon blind (although I had tasted them earlier in the day.) I thought the Bevan was the Dakota Shy, the Dakota Shy was the Dorsey, the Dorsey was the Detert, and the Detert was the Bevan.

Unanimous winner was the Dorsey. Probably the Detert was second place but we didn’t do a formal score and there were fans of all of the four. Just no fans for the Chinon nor Realm.

TRB never seems to fail me as a winemaker. His worst efforts I like, and his best are sublime. The Dorsey was the only wine that was finished at the table. Perhaps we all just have crappy new world palates but I can tell you the Dorsey CF is hitting on all cylinders. I hope Tom Garrett keeps selling him some fruit. I will continue to buy.

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Nice tasting. Was it blind? I haven’t had the 19 Raffault, but I often find them to be a bit on the thin and weedy side in weaker years although that shouldn’t apply to 19, and also that they require a lot of time to shine. I think the 05 is only now starting to peak. The 16 was a big disappointment at first, although a recent bottle finally started to show better (I think others like Brian G had the same impression as well)

After falling in love with a 2013 realm Dr Crane a few years back, every single time I’ve tried a realm including the Falstaff it has failed to impress or worse. They’ve been overextracted with harsh wood / seed tannins at best, and muddy at worst. At a trade tasting I politely inquired if a muddy sample might be off, and the pourer tasted and said no, that’s the way it’s supposed to be. Ok!

Yes - brown bagged (with blue tape on the top.) A third party labeled them so I had no idea what was what even though I had tasted them earlier in the day to make sure they were all good - although the Chinon could have been discoverable because the bottle was a bit different. Dr Crane Realm is usually pretty special.

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FWIW, I think Olga has kind of lost the proverbial plot, starting from 2018.

All of '18, '19, and '20 just did not do it for me, did not feel like Chinon. Warmer, riper, headed toward “anonymous” albeit not all the way there. Not bad wine, but not the Les Picasses I first grew to love.

Some of it may be the vintages, but, comparatively, I love the Baudry '19s and '20s, love Chevalerie’s '18s.

And, then, from Olga, I found something to dig in and enjoy about all of '14 through '17.

I think it’s fascinating discussing this variety - especially with those whose ‘benchmark’ for the variety is either Napa or Bordeaux. If your benchmark is the Loire, it’s literally like talking ‘apples to oranges’ . . .

Glad to see the variety getting more play here and elsewhere - just interesting to see the prices it is fetching in Napa these days . . .

Cheers