Opened a Tablas Creek Tannat a few nights ago or so. Absolutely loved it. As I understand it, the grape originates from the Basque region. So, went over to Kermit Lynch and picked up a bottle from there. Its too rustic and lean for what I was looking for (could be because it was blended with Cab Franc).
In any event, are there and producers to look for?
THere are lots of interesting but rustic wines being made there, some of which tend to the lean side (admittedly, the style I do prefer). Two years ago we did an Irouleguy tasting in NYC, where the Domaine Etxegaraya Cuvée Lehengoa came out as the WOTN. Here are the TNs: Random Ramblings on Food and Wine: The Great Irouléguy Tasting & a Guest Blogger!" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
The wines, as I said, can be rustic and structured, with very dark profiles, but also very good. Explore away, the price points lend themselves to tasting around.
Cheers!
Tim = go visit Mulan at K&L in SF. We did a Basque themed dinner with her a couple of years ago that was awesome. She is a pretty good resource for Basque wines.
BTW - the dinner was awesome. I think I put notes up on the Parker board, but since I am banned cannot search
A number of producers in Argentina and Uruguay are making tannat-based wines. The ones I’ve had (can’t recall any specific producers) were definitely rustic, but I wouldn’t characterize them as lean by any means.
Definitely more plentiful, relatively speaking. So many of the Basque producers are so small, it’s hard to get even their more recognized whites with much consistency. While there aren’t oodles of Madiran available, I can at least count the number of wines I can get using two hands, instead of just one for Basque.
If you’re interested in Basque wine from Spain, probably the most famous is the white wine, Txakoli, made from the grape variety Hondarribi Zuri. (There are also less famous reds there made from the grape Hondarribi Beltza). There are a number of very good producers of it, but it’s nothing like Tannat. More of a lean, crisp wine for drinking with fish and shellfish, often just slightly pétillant.
The Irouléguy domaines that are most easy to find in the U.S. are Ilarria, Brana, Arretxea, and Etxegaraya. That accounts for about half of all the independent producers in Irouléguy. (Kermit Lynch brings in Arretxea and Etxegaraya.)
If you’re after Tannat, the wines from Madiran are generally riper and fuller, and in many cases rely on new oak barriques in their élevage. That is one nice thing about Irouléguy; few producers use new oak, giving a purer representation of both the Tannat grape and the hilly Irouléguy terroir. I just had a bottle of the 2006 Etxegaraya Cuvée Lehengoa the other night and it blew me away with its purity (once again; I’ve enjoyed the wine many times since release).
Irouléguy whites are pretty interesting and usually so acidic that they stand up to richer foods pretty well, rather like Jurançon Sec, the wines of which themselves aren’t shy with their acidity.
If you’re interested in wines from the area, I strongly recommend Paul Strang’s new book, South-West France: The Wines and Winemakers (2009). It’s an awesome reference book on the area.
It was a 2006 Domaine Etxegaraya Irouleguy. For me, it was a bit on the leaner, harder side. Was looking for something that would be a bit more in the other direction. It was blended with Cab Franc.
Thanks Tony! I never thought to check K&L…just assumed that Kermit Lynch would be the only local to import them.
Zachary and Richard - Thanks for the suggestion on Madiran…that does sound more in the direction I am looking for. But, will give some others a try too. Thank you.
FWIW, Kermit Lynch does not bring in any wines from Madiran. He used to import Chateau de Perron, but when the owners of the winery sold their property, that relationship was ended.
K&L often carries Domaine Berthoumieu’s Cuvée Charles de Batz Madiran, which is an excellent example of the genre. Another great source for these wines in San Francisco is San Francisco Wine Trading Company:
visited Domaine Brana in September w/Jerry Hey and had a great tasting. They’re doing some interesting things, low yields, no chaptalization or acidification, no filtering, very artisanal winemaking. Had a Brana 96 white that was quite good w/dinner. Enjoyed the 08 and 09 reds and will be seeking them out, the mostly Cab Franc versions . . .
alan