So first the purpose. I’ve been buying Barolo/Barbaresco for less than a decade and only doing anything remotely called ‘studying’ for the past few years. Like the Burgundy path, I’m sure this will take me a decade of reading / tasting / visiting before I’m sure that I know very little!
I’m reading Kerin O’Keefe’s book, very interesting stuff. She mentions many producers I’ve never really heard of, gives them glowing write-ups. So I’m interested, if you feel that you have some ‘game’ in this region, who are your top 5 favorites. Not top 5 holdings, but the 5 you think make the best wine.
And to make this interesting, I’m going to knock out some of the easy ones (on both traditionalist and modernist side, and in-between).
No Picking:
Giacosa
G. Conterno
A. Conterno (I like the Granbussia a lot already)
Gaja
Sandrone (yeah, I know, some love, some hate)
Bartolo Mascarello
Giuseppe Mascarello
Giuseppe Rinaldi
Cappellano
Obviously subjective and hard to rank even for myself. For example, does Burlotto belong in this group? I’m not sure, but I think the Monvigliero is awesome and unique, so I’m including it. By holdings, I have more Produttori del Barbaresco than most of these, but I don’t think they are as good.
In no particular order, I thought I’d be on the lookout for particular Barolo producers around the towns of Barolo and La Morra, thought I’d start there.
Thoughts on Brezza? Scarzello? Congo? Cavallotto? Gigi Rosso?
Burlotto, Cavallotto, G. Fenocchio, Brovia, and a 3-way tie – Oddero/Massolino/Pelissero. When considering the entire range of wines from all of the aforementioned, I would be content to drink (exclusively) those wines for the rest of my life.
I’ve not tasted widely enough, especially at the upper echelons, to even attempt to say ‘best’ or anything near it.
Thankfully there are plenty of ‘really good’ wines that have given enjoyment, but for me to put them forward as ‘best’ would be a bit silly.
Ian. The ‘best’ after I eliminated 9 producers that people would consider (I think) among the best. Really trying to get rid of names that are more common, and get to more interesting and lesser known producers with interesting holdings.
Looking at CellarTracker, and eliminating the modernists that no one here is really going to recommend (Scavino, Clerico, Voerzio, Spinetta), I own some of the following.
G. Mascarello
G. Rinaldi
Vietti
Brezza
Cappellano
Cavellotto
Grasso.
Produttori del Barbaresco
What am I missing, what do I have to seek out in the good years ('01, '04, '06, '10)
From the above, seems like I should look for:
Bartolo Mascarello (been looking, hard to find)
Brovia
Vajra
Fenocchio
Oddero
Massolino
Pelissero
Peter, I think Cavallotto is really good and highly underrated. I’m not sure why it doesn’t get more hype around here or in market – although that’s probably good for prices, so I don’t mind. For some context, a 1978 Bricco Boschis San Giuseppe Riserva brought the single greatest wine-drinking experience of my (short) life. I’ve had lots from more recent vintages, and while it’s different (a little denser usually), I think it usually compares favorably with G. Mascarello’s Monprivato and Villero. A great wine.
The 2010 Bricco Boschis also shapes up to be a great wine at a good price.
Peter, have you tried the Burlotto Monvigliero? My own exploration of Barolo is largely about exploring the different expressions that come from the different communes. Along those lines, the Monvigliero is a truly unique wine and really delicious. Plus you can still find it for around $60, which is a bargain these days.
Jay. Thanks. That’s exactly what I want to do, same as I did in Burgundy. Village by village, vineyard by vineyard, cool years, hot years, see the variation. Thanks…
Peter
Sorry for being a bit touchy. I think I mis-read your listing of those producers as some kind of ‘beyond these, what’s best?’, whereas your request is not about best, but interesting. I guess I’ve just seen too many threads over the years where people want to establish a definitive pecking order of wines.
Some producers I like:
Schiavenza in Serralunga d’Alba were the discovery of the trip in October this year. I didn’t particularly enjoy their Langhe nebbiolo or Barbera, but every Barolo was really impressive (and their own restaurant is a fine bargain for dining)
Mauro Molino in Annunziata sits near Altare physically and stylistically, but we’ve really enjoyed their wines which don’t push the modernist ideal too far. It helps they (like so many in the region) are charming hosts. Just up the road is (Lo)Renzo Accomasso - very traditional and a true wine farmer, with some lovely wines.
Albino Rocca in walking distance of the village of Barbaresco has a wonderfully impressive range, with very fine Barbarescos, but also some surprises such as excellent Cortese (and a very good Moscato). Burlotto mentioned above is another with a wonderfully broad range of wines - something to interest everyone there. Not many producers in Verduno, but well worth exploring there.
Finally, a cheat. Antoniolo in Gattinara, despite Lorella asserting that the wines are lighter and leaner compared to Barolo/Barbaresco, make some wonderfully shaped wines that would delight a traditionalist-leaning nebbiolo fan.
Seeing your note about exploring the terroir, the Produttori del Barbaresco earn special mention iro their policy of releasing all single vineyard plots as riservas, or none at all. Throw in Aldo Vacca’s tireless work touring the world doing horizontal tastings, and they are the perfect wine geek’s producer.
Ian. Thanks very much for the advice/thoughts. And you’re right. I’m not looking for any ‘ranking’ as that’s impossible. Just looking for interesting (and, of course good/great!) producers outside of the list of the commonly accepted ‘great’ ones. In Burg, it would be like eliminating DRC, Leroy, Dujac, Meo, Roumier, Rousseau, Rouget, Mugnier and working your way towards Bachelet and Esmonin and Clavelier. I’ll seek some of your suggestions out as I work through the villages…
Michael. 3 out of the 5 don’t count! See OP. I like Vietti, esp the Rocche (I seem to like the more ‘Burgundian’ Piedmont producers). I’m surprised to see Clerico on your list! Thought all the modernists were banned from WineBerserker conversations! I own some and like it, though I haven’t had a really aged one…
Despite my research into the region, I’d still characterize myself as in the early learning stages. Based on my own tasting and experience, I’d offer the following as some of my favorites not on your list:
Brovia
Cavallotto
Vajra
Vietti
Voerzio (More controversial than Sandrone, but I’d urge you to taste one. Try the Brunate)
Perhaps a bit more under the radar:
Fratelli Alessandria
Paitin
Outside of Barolo/Barbaresco, I’d throw out Antonio Vallana.
Why ask for our top 5, then eliminate all of them (in my case)? Then you’re not asking for my top 5. My top 6 are all on your list:
Giacosa
Cappellano
Giuseppe Rinaldi
G. Conterno
Bartolo Mascarello
Giuseppe Mascarello
After those:
Produttori
Vietti
Altare
Brovia
Burlotto
Gaja
Cogno
Roagna
Cavallotto