We had an absolutely stunning meal here last week. New restaurant in the old Compose space on Worth Street. Matt Lightner is the chef and even though it has only been open for a few weeks, I found every aspect of the meal perfectly polished.
Very straightforward format - fixed price meal consisting of perhaps 10 courses filled out by at least another dozen snack-sized dishes. The restaurant called me 2 days in advance to ask about any dietary restrictions, etc. There’s one counter that seats about a dozen diners and faces the open kitchen and then one separate table to the side that can fit 4-6.
The Very modern style - some molecular gastro stuff, but not as much as you might expect. Many dishes focused on textural and temperature contrasts - freeze-dried fruits, ices, flowers, grains, etc. Not everything worked, but several dishes were among the best I’ve ever had anywhere.
Just a few highlights:
Slow roasted beet with fish roe and crustacean sauce
Charred ramps with peanut glaze
Pickled quail eggs
Squab with dried pear skins and pickled wild onion
Skate in chicken broth with beef tendon
And almost a week later, I’m still thinking about several of them - to me, the greatest compliment I can bestow. Ingredients are focused on local, seasonal, and foraged. Many dishes are made to evoke their natural habitat - which to me is an artistic flair and usually doesn’t get in the way of how the dish tastes.
The wine list is extremely impressive with many gems at reasonable prices.
I absolutely loved it, but it’s probably not for everyone. That said, to me, it’s a must visit and is one of the most interesting and new openings in NYC in quite some time. This place will either blow up into the most important new NYC restaurant or fail miserably. I hope it’s the former because it really adds a lot to the dining scene here.