I enjoy Bons Batons young, but I’ve had very few 1er cru Barthods that I’ve ever thought were “ready.” This note is for a 1996, a famously acidic vintage, so it’s not really fair to make generalizations, but it did nothing to change my mind.
What say you? And if it’s true of older vintages, have things changed in recent years?
1996 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Véroilles - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (12/12/2021)
Bought from Domaine. Popped and poured.
Dark ruby colored, with a bit of rust. The edge is still water-colored, so quite youthful.
This bottle started young and tight, good but not revealing. So we put it aside and came back a couple of hours later.
Nose is great, dark cherry but more forest floor, with a dose of licorice, and a slight smoky character. Seriously tertiary, to the point that some might miss the fruit.
On the palate, it shows more of that cherry fruit, but good complexity. But here the acidity makes its presence known, though less shrill than earlier bottles. Still, I think I might have guessed the vintage blind. Similar to 2008, but more advanced.
I’ve often joked that Barthod is never ready, though truly the 93’s are. Combine her style with the famously shrill 96 character, and I wasn’t super-optimistic, despite its 25 year age. But I’d say this wine is ready to drink now, though true to its origins. I suspect the acidity won’t fade, but the fruit might.
This was really enjoyable, but more for the interesting experience than hedonistic joy. Far better than a science experiment, but maybe not a top burgundy experience.
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