1870 Blandy Madeira Verdelho Solera- Portugal, Madeira (6/2/2013)
Lively high expressive aromas of citrus, apricots and tea. On the palate medium sweetness and lively acids, with apricots, ripe peaches, crème brûlée, and orange peel. Ending with a slightly warm finish. An awesome wine!
1976 Blandy Madeira Terrantez- Portugal, Madeira (6/2/2013)
An interesting orange-amber-gold-reddish color. Expressive nose of sweet caramel, apricots and delicious almonds. Very concentrated, lush and punchy, with excellent balancing acidity. Sweet and riche in texture! Amazing length! Wow, a true privilege to taste!
Been opening a few bottles.
Lately a NV Miguel Jardim Reserva Boal Velho (from Henriques & Henriques and probably 19th C) and a Blandys 1880 Verdelho Solera.
Roy Hersh’s website, www.ftlop.com, has a Madeira section on the forum as well as lots of tasting notes.
1922 D’Oliveiras Madeira Boal Reserva- Portugal, Madeira (6/2/2012)
My second foray with this wine. We had a bottle of it in 2007 for my mother’s 85th birthday, and we had another one for her 90th. Last time, I decanted based upon the recommendation of the D’Oliveiras family and gave it only about 2 hours of air. I decided it was not enough, so this time I followed Roy Hersh’s recommendation from 2007 and decanted it at about 5 hours in advance, poured it back into the bottle from the decanter about 2 hours before we drank it, and then poured 28 glasses of it for all the adults at the party and drank it as the opening taste for the Havdalah service we conducted at the restaurant before dinner. This is definitely a wine that should be savored carefully, and thus belongs either on its own or at the beginning rather than the end of the meal. The nose is explosively nutty and sweet with some vanilla. Although there is acid present, this one - probably because of the longer decant - was less sharp on the palate with no bitterness from the acidity. Sweet without being sugary or syrupy, with lots of roasted nuts, orange peel and lemon. Color was translucent but dark brown. Superb balance. My wife is not a sweet wine drinker, but she really enjoyed this, as did many others, who begged me for more. Alas, there were no “seconds” since I saved only the last ounce for myself to bring home and try in a few days. I have one ounce left from the bottle I opened in 2007, and I will drink them side by side to see what 5 years of air will do to a Madeira. With luck, I will need, and be able to find, another bottle of this in 10 years. (95 pts.)
1850 Companhia Vinicola da Madeira Madeira Verdelho- Portugal, Madeira (12/9/2010)
At Bern’s in Tampa, in the Harry Waugh desert room after dinner. My first Verdelho madeira. Nose of hazelnuts and caramel. Bone dry and very highly in acidity, to the point that it was bitter on the rear palate. Color was very light yellow gold. Extremely nutty with hazelnuts, pecans and cashews. Some sharp citrus and a tiny bit of fruit flavor as in herry - gee, that’s why they must call it “maderized.” The acidity in this wine was so sharp that it was not to my liking, but how often do you get to try a wine made from grapes that first flowered when Zachary Tyler was President, and were picked when Millard Fillmore was President? Pre-oidium and pre-phylloxera. For that alone it was worth it.
1922 D’Oliveiras Madeira Boal Reserva- Portugal, Madeira (6/2/2007)
After sorting through recommendations as to how to prepare from Roy Hersh, Francois Audouze, Francois Mauss and Louis D’Oliveira directly from the winery, we settled on a decant two hours prior to drinking. In retrospect, I think those who suggested longer decaqnts were probably right - the alcohol level was a bot too high and more time to blow off might have been nbetter.
Aroma - The sommelier poured 13 glasses in a room next to the private room in the basement of Bottega del Vino. The aroma was so strong that I could easily smell the intense sweet nutty nose in the next room within 30 seconds after he started pouring. I am not a Madeira expert - far from it having had maybe one good glass of madeira in my life, so I can’t give you comments on a relative basis, but the aroma was clearly on of the mroe intense wine experience I have ever had. I agreed, with the sommerlier, however, that the ethyl alcohol aroma was very strong. HIs comment was that he was sure that the 19-21% on the bottle was too low, and I woudl not be surprised. The obvious alcohol was the only drawback tot he entire experience.
On the palate - Sugared pecans, walnuts, chocolate and some totally unexpected citrus acid bite. I do not know if the citrus is normal, but I could taste something like it on the sides of my tongue. The wine was medium sweet - nothing like a vintage port in sweetness. No need for insulin but the sugar was there in the background without taking over the wine with cloyness. Very very long finish. I could still taste it minutes after swallowing. This is a wine to savor very slowly. My mother really liked it. (94 pts.)
I also got three bottles of the 1875 Barbeito Malvasia at auction a few years ago. I opened the first at my 60th birthday dinner. No formal note It was a very nice bottle, perhaps not quite as good as the 1922, but still quite outstanding. Roy warned me that the 1875 Barbeito was not as good as the 1875 D’Oliveras, but the D’Oliveras was not at the auction. In reviewing my notes of the 1922s, I think I underrated them. Yesterday was my mother’s 91st Birthday and when my nephew asked me what was the most I ever spent on a bottle of wine and I said it was the 1922 Madeira, he said it was great, and was worth it.
Is Solera now considered vintage Madeira? I’ve always considered them a multi-vintage blend myself, as the year on the bottle is only indicative of the year the solera started. Has this practice changed?
I really enjoy the Verdelho and Terrantez more than the Malvazia. The Malvazia, to my taste, is lacking enough acidity to carry the body. While it is good (and I do like other Malvazias I have tried) the other two are just fantastic. Plenty of nutty caramel flavors with a nice tang of citrus like acidity to focus the finish.
Is Solera now considered vintage Madeira? I’ve always considered them a multi-vintage blend myself, as the year on the bottle is only indicative of the year the solera started. Has this practice changed?
No. Soleras are still Soleras. The date is the year started. There are no longer any new Soleras being marketed, however, since the new IVBAM laws almost prohibit them from being marketed. A shame in a way since I’m told there are some wonderful old Soleras on the island which cannot be sold.
The Rare Wine Company is far and away the best source in the US.
I am almost sure Soleras are not produced anymore, I had the 1811 at Blandy’s Bicentenial Tasting back in 2011 and ‘smuggled’ the empty bottle of the Island, the 1870 was a ‘left-over’ from a big Madeira tasting here in Holland. I know there is small stocks of old Soleras on the Island but not for commercial sale. d’Oliveira’s might have one or two late 19th century on sale. They have a ‘large’ selection of older Vintage Madeira on sale in Funchal. If you want to know more about Madeira you might want to visit my friend Niklas Jorgesen’s blog madaboutmadeira.org
I’m amazed to see you post here! For people not in the know, you deserve a large part of the credit for facilitating some awesome tastings! Please stay thirsty!
