Winex has an interesting email today for a Spanish white, and my experience thus far with Spanish whites makes it even more interesting. I’d love a few to have around for the summertime, but this is not one I’ve heard of before (just like I had not previously heard of Vijiriega when I had Veleta’s)
"1,2,3, GO-dello
This is an opportune time for this wine as it provides not only a snappy, delicious white for warmer weather, as well as a delectable deal, but a great chance to show how far Spain has come with white wines over the last few years. Godello is the varietal, a grape that was nearly extinct in its native northwestern Spain until, about 15 years ago, some vintners undertook the mission to revive it. Typically grown on steep hillsides, with relatively low yields, it isn’t always the best ‘commercial’ proposition as farming is laborious and yields are low. But its bright fruit, subtle minerality, and fresh acidity makes for great drinking and that is the point.
The trick is to get these wines at a great price, particularly given the commercial disadvantages we mentioned. We thought it was a pretty good value at its former price. But here, the wholesaler for Alma de Blanco (‘soul of white’ in Spanish) decided they weren’t moving through this one quite fast enough for their liking. So they dropped the price.
We were selling it for $13. But we couldn’t resist the opportunity to talk about one of our favorite white varieties with you and deliver a great value. So we dropped the price to $9.99! Delicious, refined Godello for the price of some ‘critter wine’ in a grocery store? Count us in! The Wine Advocate 89 is just a bonus. Good hunting. "
not much, really, but I certainly enjoyed this example:
2007 A Coroa Godello Valdeorras (Spain, Galicia, Valdeorras) [Click to view 1 label image] 10/8/2009 SteveG 87
My first Godello, a tasty wine! Very pale lime juice in color and light citrus nose, quite zesty initially on the palate, distinctly grapefruit and kiwi, subsiding to an almost sweet finish. All of this is done very lightly, an interesting wine in that it stood up to jalapeno/soy chicken and garlic cauliflower but seems rather shy on its own. Not a great wine but clean, fresh and vibrant, certainly well worth the price of admission.
Godello wines from Galicia tend to be great summer wines, particularly with seafood. I’ve drunk a lot of them, but haven’t tried that particular producer.
Earlier in the week I had the priviledge of tasting the Jose Pastor wines. Some great Godellos in the mix. Look for: Guimaro, Mengoba & Benaza. Guimaro’s Godello was my favorite of the bunch. Lot’s of other great whites from Spain & Canary Islands using Macabeo, Malvasia & Listan Blanco. Also the most unusual Gual & Vijariega varieties.
Funny, I’ve had the opposite experience. But there’s something richer in the Godellos that I really liked. Maybe this is the Spanish white that pleases everyone
I also love the Godeval. Agree with Brian that godello wines seem to be richer, yet they maintain their freshness. Some of the wines are aged on their lees for a while, adding some interesting character. I tend to like Galician wines, including the reds (mostly Mencia), for the freshness and ability to match with a variety of foods.
Jose Pastor has a great collection. I think the Guimaro godello-based wine (BGB) is new to his collection, I look forward to trying it.
There are a few different wines from Val de Sil FWIW. I also like the Palacios As Sortes, Telmo Rodriguez Gaba Do Xil (despite not liking him) and Godeval.
Haven’t had a ton of experience here but travelling through Espana my wife and I loved the whites with most meals/tapas. The whites that I can remember drinking here are verdejos, albarinos, grenache blancs, and a few godellos -Bodegas Valdesil (Montenovo), Ladera Sagrada.
Definetely not big, in your face styles, but more of a thirst quencher with food. Nice way to start before you start in on the rojas!
Sorry Tom, didn’t mean to imply that I thought you were somehow wrong - just saying we found an overlap in preferences that we agreed upon. And that maybe people who, like me, hadn’t has as great an experience with Spanish whites should give a Godello a try!
I’ve heard someone describe Godello as having the advantages of chardonnay without the disadvantages. Obviously that’s somewhat subjective and probably mostly accurate on the food-pairing issue, but I have had a number and the best do seem to combine zesty acidity and good minerality with a subtle underlying richness. As indicated above they tend to go very well with multiple foods. I’ve found the one Todd has asked about to be a good example, and that’s a great price.
I’ve had 2 or 3 of the different Val De Sils and all have been fantastic; clean and crisp with a great purity of fruit and some mineral qualities. Certainly no one would mistake it for a Gruner Veltliner, but that’s the best comparison I can think of.
Recently had a bottle of A Coroa which I liked less. Despite aging in only stainless, it exhibited a deeper gold color and less crisp acidity. Maybe just a slightly off bottle.
If my mental atlas is correct, Godello is from the same region that produces Mencia (Bierzo), which is an equally interesting red that I’d suggest trying too.
Hmm, I know someone who can tell you guys about Godello now. . .
Anyway, the grape was almost extinct and was likely to go extinct until relatively recently. There still isn’t really all that much acreage and it’s pretty much all up in the northwest of Spain where we get our albarino and other good stuff. It’s a pretty old grape because there’s evidence that the Romans knew it. If it’s picked a little late, it isn’t nearly as good as when picked earlier with the acidity really high and the sugar not making the wine too soft. Sometimes it’s even mixed with other grapes like Treixadura or something, but it does quite nicely on its own. When they get it right, it’s really a nice wine, even has a hint of a floral note with citrus and lemon and I like it quite a bit. Unlike chardonnay, it actually has its own personality, which is nice. But most Spanish whites do, which I suppose is one reason I like them.
The Godeval is all over - it’s got great distribution but it’s not really the best version around.
todd - that alma de blanco is delicious enough for me to purchase a case for summer drinking. matt’s recommendation for the palacios is spot on but it is pricey. the alma comes close to palacios for a lot less money.