Another great Montreal Lunch

Well, I’m back in Montreal. I will miss Switzerland and France but will be back a few times a year for business and pleasure.

One thing i was looking forward to, coming back here, were my lunches with @Peter_Chiu.

This was a special lunch. We were celebrating Peter’s retirement and it was the first time I was bringing my wife and uncle along. It was wonderful.


Larmandier-Bernier Vieille Vigne du Levant 2011
I brought this to show what a good vineyard and producer could do in a bad vintage. Great wine. Time on lees and good oak bring a very serious profile to this: spices, roasted nuts but also pear, citrus and chalk to balance it out. One of the few 2011 standouts.

We didn’t open the PYCM because I had brought a double-blind for Peter’s new 2N club!

Vincent Dancer Chassagne-Montrachet Tête du Clos 2007
Peter brought this because it’s the oldest Dancer he had in the cellar. Bright, clean golden color. The nose exhibits mature Burgundy markers (nuts, slight caramel) but also fresh fruits and crushed stones. Beautiful wine that only got better with air and time. The palate was that perfect balance of evolved fruit and bright Chassagne minerality. Lovely. Drink now.

The companion was:
Albert Grivault Bourgogne Blanc 2017
Many preferred this generic to the Dancer initially. This was reduced when poured but gained weight and depth quickly. Ripe citrus, pear, vanilla and cardamom on the nose and palate. Good acidity with bright flavors on the palate but where time got the Dancer to improve, this didn’t really evolve with time and the finish lacked a little. That being said, this punches above its “generic” classification. Drink now.


Fun head to head on Marsannay 2022.

Trapet Marsannay 2022
My favorite by a mile. This is a wonderful effort on Northern Côte-de-Nuits! Red-berried, spicy stemminess, bright acidity but wonderful balance. Very decent finish on crunchy red-berries and fine tannins. I really liked this and could see upside to cellaring this for 5 to 7 years. Good wine.

Château de Marsannay 2022
Not bad but a little easy… it’s that good looking woman (person) that just wears a little too much perfume: dark-berried, exuberant nose full of spices, smooth with already integrated tanins, decent finish. Pretty good effort considering the price but I’m not a buyer.

And then, Peter threw us a curveball (double-blind):

Dugat-Py Pommard La Levrière TVV 2020
Wow. I guessed Dugat-Py because of the insane spices and florals but I thought this was a Gevrey! No Pommard structure and attitude here. This is a crazy pirate for Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru. The nose is an insane bouquet of florals, cool herbal tones and ripe cherries. I couldn’t get my nose out of it. The palate isn’t lacking either with the texture handling the nose: concentrated with the tannins adding volume, plenty of acidity and fruity goodness. Wonderful wine.

Catherine et Claude Maréchal Pommard La Chanière 2019
Not a bad effort at all but it suffered from being served alongside the Dugat–Py. This was more red-berried and the tannins were more Pommard (coarser). A fine wine but outclassed today.

Peter and I exchanged a few bottles and my wife made sure we had takeout from Tian Fu.

We also discussed the next lunch where we identified bottles we wanted to explore (I’m looking at you Dujac Malconsorts!).

A wonderful time of friendship, wines and food. This does the soul right.

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All lunches in Mtl are special. I have to wait another few months before I get my next fix.

You’ve also pushed me to try a Dancer wine.

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Nice bottles! I love the Clos du Tete and the Dugat-Py sounds fun. Controversial producer, but the one time I drank his Gevrey VV, it was quite enjoyable, though not at the level you describe.

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Interesting and cool lineup. Thanks for the notes. Trapet sounds great. Many ‘22s so tasty right now.

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Do ping me if you can/want/have nothing better to do while in Mtl!

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Will do! We usually have a lot of family commitments but it would be great to meet up!

Hi Phil…thanks for the TNs and indeed it was fun.

Here are some back-grounds for the burgundy markets situation in Quebec Canada.

Sadly SAQ ( a provincial agency ) controls the wine markets here and the sales tax is 15%.

Wines by Claude Dugat and Dugat-Py are very hard to have as they have always been the favorite sons ( of twin sons ) of most of the Burgundy lovers in Quebec, Canada.

Yes their styles are quite difference - for example :

Claude Dugat ( especially since his son took over Bernard ) does not include any stems, very small berries, early picking and no pumping over…so we are talking about gracefulness. Grace Kelly comes to my mind. Do not get it wrong, it ages well and for sure as it has no over-extraction.

Dugat-Py owns a total 10 ha of vines in Gevrey, He employs 5 full-time workers to care for them so the raw materials from his holdings would always form and would also achieve the majestically highest height of his 4 red grand-cru. For his style, I would call it : the middle-road approach. He keeps part of his stem, and one pumping over and one punch-down per day.

So in conclusion : which producer’s style do you prefer ?

That being said. i would like to report that their prices have remained steady for the last 12 to 10 year,

For example Claude Dugat Bourgongne was at $79 and his Gevrey rvey was at $ 157 for vintage 2013. Trapet’s Gevrey Ostrea 2013 was at $99 and Chambertin 2013 was at $387.

Nowadays Claude’s Bourgogne 2022 is his Chambertin 2022 is at $1382.

There are also important facts for one to buy wines in Quebec, Canada : (1) price and (2) availability.

If money is not much concerned for you then the availability becomes more important for you as the availability is limited.

Could you imagine if you like to drink Claude Dugat’s Bourgogne, you need to buy them in the Lottery system. It is often limited to a few bottles per customer.

The situation for Dugat-Py’s wines are about the same as Claude Dugat.

Here are the price his Pommard for the last few years :

Dugat-Py - Pommard La Levriere 20 - -$229.75
Dugat-Py - Pommard La Levriere 17 - -$218.00
Dugat-Py - Pommard La Levriere 16 - -$222.50
Dugat-Py - Pommard La Levriere 15 - -$211.00

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Thanks Dennis - Hard time in Quebec, Canada for Burgundy lover ( like me ).

To-nite at 12.01 a.m. SAQ will release the following Trapet’s wines :

Trapet - Chambertin 2022 ( 1542-1229 $1382.50)
Trapet - Latriciere 2022 ( 1542-1334 $979.25)
Trapet - Chapelle 2022 ( 1542-1326 $979.25)
Trapet - Petite-Chapelles 2022 ( 1542-1300 $351.25)
Trapet - Gevrey 1859 2022 ( 1542-1342 $205.75)

There is a good possibility that total number of each wines are quite limited and also 1 to 2 bottles of each wine per customer.the

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Joshua - thanks for posting.

Dugat-Py makes quite a few Gevrey AC ( village ) - most of them are v.v. or t.v.v.

From my limited experienced, they all need bottle-aging. Unlike his Pommard which is clearly his entry’s level wine in entire Portfolio.

BTW…I would like to add the following explanation : what was the main purpose of the Theme for the lunch.

I informed Phil that for the last many, many years I am the president of the2 Ms club in Montreal. The 2 Ms mean : Mercurey and Marsannay ( and not : Musigny and Montrachet ).

We named our club like that as our Club’s house wines are mainly from Mercury and Mansannay with the main purpose to explored and enjoy the wines from these 2 village - bearing in mind of what Madam Becky Wasserman once said : she felt sorry for any burgundy wine-lover who does not enjoy the village wines.

As the prices for Mercurey and Marsannay are getting higher and higher in Quebec, so our Club had decided to switch the name to : The 2 Ns Club ( for Non-cru and Generic Bourgogne ) with the main goal to explor and to enjoy …bourgogne wines and so on.

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