An Evening Celebrating Evan (Mostly Burgundy TNs)

WINE TALK
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8 of us gathered to celebrate @EvanLodes at Le Pavillon. It was a wonderful evening spent toasting to a wonderful person. I feel lucky to be included in such evenings. We spent a good amount of time discussing the wines at the table and, overall, everyone was extremely happy with the showing. My notes are brief, but I hope you find them helpful. There are lots of pictures on the 'gram :slight_smile:

EL BIRTHDAY DINNER - The Garden Table at Le Pavillon (10/12/2022)

Champagne

Began with some golden ostera caviar and the chef's canape

  • 1996 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil - France, Champagne
    This was a freakin' frozen rope. It came out with a bang and didn't stop delivering. Great energy. Great salinity, creating just that touch of salt on a perfect piece of bread. This wine did not have bread notes - there was no fat or flab here, just a little nuttiness to make you swoon. I have been underwhelmed by many 96 champagnes, but this did not disappoint. (96 points)
  • 1983 MoĂ«t & Chandon Champagne CuvĂ©e Dom PĂ©rignon - France, Champagne
    I am a sucker for 80s Dom. Came out of the bottle a little awkward, but once it settled in the glass it revealed my favorite, honey-roasted almond flavors. Good effervescence for almost 40 years in the bottle. And this was just a p1! Next to the 96 Krug Mesnil it didn't have the energy, but really delicious. (95 points)
  • 1983 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne RosĂ© Brut - France, Champagne
    Good character. Felt a little in between stages of development. The nose was muted, not giving much of an experience. On the palate it was much better. Drank more like a still wine. (91 points)

White Round 1

Here we had the yellowfin Tuna dish as well as the Bucatini dish. The pasta was the highlight, combining the guanciale with the squid ink sauce.

  • 1983 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
    Effing amazing. 2nd time drinking this wine in less than a month and it consistently delivers. Deep. Floral. Delicious. (97 points)
  • 1982 Coche-Dury Meursault - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Beaune, Meursault
    At first, I thought this was just past its prime. A fine wine where all the good bits have faded leaving a simple wine behind. Evan mentioned this vintage is maybe a little Sauterne-like? I could see it; it has some botrytis to it so maybe that is what took over? Z said the advice she received was to let it open in the glass. That was good advice. The wine expanded a lot over a couple of hours and show greater dimensionality. I think its best years have past, but it showed quality. (91 points)
  • 1990 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
    Served blind next to the 83 Leflaive BM and the 82 Coche Dury Meursault. Obviously Chablis. Obviously Raveneau. Many questions on age.

    Looks young in the glass. Drinks young but doesn't have the intensity that is off-putting for me with most Chablis. The flavors had room to show and they were a good mix of citrus and honey. The length was amazing.

    I guessed late 90s. No one guessed early 90s or 90. Impressive bottle (94 points)

White Round 2

Another round of caviar, this time the kaluga, with roasted arctic char. Also a roasted dover sole with perfectly browned skin.

  • 1999 Domaine de la RomanĂ©e-Conti Montrachet - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
    This was a little disappointing. It had a one-note vanilla profile that wasn't very interesting. It wasn't bad but wasn't the vaunted experience I am used to. The weakest DRC Monty I've ever had. (89 points)
  • 2001 Coche-Dury Meursault - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Beaune, Meursault
    Very good, basically textbook Coche Meursault. Had the requisite matchstick on the nose, good Meursault roundness and that magic Coche weight to it. Didn't offer more than that though so I put it below the 1995 Coche MP. (93 points)
  • 1995 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
    Holy moly. This was cracking. Served next to 99 DRC Monty and 01 Coche Dury Meursault. The color was a pale green-yellow next to glasses of gold. It felt perfect. The finish was impossibly long. It was both generous with flavor and deliciousness will not losing crispness. Acidity still strong. Didn't fade. (97 points)

Red

Dry aged black angus with the duo of braised beef cheek and strip loin.

  • 1983 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin-Clos de Bèze - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
    A good bottle with a solid amount of life. Found the nose somewhat muted but the fruit on the palate was nice. It had earthiness but didn't give up on quality of the texture. Very easy to drink but wasn't the most compelling wine in front of me. (91 points)
  • 1982 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
    A cut about the 83 Beze. Everything was dialed up relative to the Beze: the nose much more inviting and calming, the fruit had a strong core of aged cherry with a little smokiness that was haunting. Really delicious. (95 points)
  • 1983 Domaine de la RomanĂ©e-Conti Grands-Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru
    The nose was so DRC. It jumped out of the glass with a high pitch and strong attitude. You couldn't miss it. This needs much more time. Unlike the other bottles that were somewhere towards the middle/end of their window, I felt like we are at the very beginning here. Noticeable structure and tannins. Roundness just starting. Give this time. (93 points)
  • 1988 Domaine Dujac Clos St. Denis - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru
    WOTN? A really complete wine. Great balance. Endless finish. People at the table, who've had this wine recently, noted how great this particular bottle showed. They weren't kidding. The wine is so soft and light but without lightness in color or thinness on the palate. The benefits of whole cluster on full display here. Really delicious. (96 points)

Sweet

Chocolate, chocolate cake, and raisin whole wheat bread (I think I ate the whole loaf)

  • 1983 Château d'Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
    Great end to the night (drank out of 750). The color is golden and pure. Not too sweet. Not too viscous. Really elegant. (93 points)

There were a few wines I didn't take notes on, but for completeness:
3 blinds
- 83 Angerville Clos Des Ducs
- 83 Pousse D'Or
- 80 Mugneret Clos Vougeot

Madeira
- 1907 D'Oliviera

My rank order (very hard to do with so many great wines)

  1. 95 Coche MP
  2. 88 Dujac CSD
  3. 83 Leflaive BM
  4. 82 Rousseau Chambertin
  5. 96 Krug Mesnil
  6. 83 DRC GE
  7. 83 DP
  8. 01 Coche Meursault
  9. 83 Rousseau CdB
  10. 83 Yquem
  11. 90 Raveneau
  12. 99 DRC Monty
  13. 82 Coche Meursault
  14. 83 CdC Ross
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WOW great wines…thanks for the write up!

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