I once joked that is was a law that every grower in Burgundy was required to have at least two rows of Aligote. Until recently, a curiosity and/or a kir base, if not a joke.
For two hundred years the downside was acidity.
For twenty years now, the upside is acidity.
I recently purchased my first full case of an Aligote, from a producer I’ve represented since 1981 (what was it Conrad said: “The horror, the horror”?).
I went to enter it on Cellar-Tracker. Had to create a new wine! I’m thinking that’s kinda rare.
So I guess ampelography sez it’s a cross between Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc, so really a first cousin of Chardonnay, if not step-sibling?
I ordered this last spring when I visited the Domaine and tasted it. My ex-company now brings it in in modest quantities; usual retail would be low $20s.
Soon after that visit, I was at a tasting in California and was highly impressed by
NV Jean-Marc Vincent SolerA Mise No 1, a multi-vintage solera-style blend. At the same tasting, we had an Aligote from Walter Scott; it was good wine, but did not make an impact.
I know there are thousands of ampelographers on this board… please chime in.
I know there are millions of wine lovers on this board… please chime in with recommendations and notes.
I own a lot of it. A retailer oversold to me in an error and I still took it versus jam them. I think it’s great. People who drink it blind think it’s great. When I tried to sell some, many respected folks on this board say “I’m not paying more than $40 for Aligote!” with a bit of condescension. I think the wine was simila rin quality to a bottle of 2018 Arnoux Aligote I had a few years ago (a bit dated, so cannot be entirely sure), which auctions for $500+!
I expect the bias on Aligote (ex Arnoux/WK) to continue and look forward trying other top examples over time at reasonable prices, especially in restaurants when the fleecing is less bad in magnitude. But I’m still drinking through my Aligote stash, I don’t think JM Vincent intends this wine to age 30 years despite using DIAM 30. I gifted a couple bottles for upcoming weddings (alongside Glasvin Universals) and I think it will be well received (I gave instructions to have it chilled, as it does lose a bit of raciness at warmer temps).
I also own a bottle of 2021 Jérôme Galeyrand Bourgogne-Aligoté Le Chaumont, but haven’t had a chance to get to it. CT notes are OK but not the most encouraging at this stage. Very hyped producer, so I snagged a bottle out of curiosity.
I also opened another aligote just before opening the Vincent - from Pierre Olivier Garcia (formerly Moron Garcia). Good wine - very floral and no bitterness. but not at the level of the Vincent. I believe our host also opened a Ramonet Bouzeron. So lots of aligote poured that night.
Jolie Laide make a really good one from the Las Cimas Vineyard in Sonoma County. Very fresh with layered flavors.
An aside, the Las Cimas Vineyard is turning out some of the very best aroma-flavor Italian and French wines in California. A unique site.
Not deep on aligote - but more and more bottles finds its way to the cellar. Most recent purchase is Cathiard 2023 - delivers great value for the price ~27 euro. I purchased more bottles after tasting.
Recently had the Domaine Leroy 2014 - this is drinking really nice right now. Restaurant purchase at 160 euro was fair, however, I would not pay market price…
Aligote and Chardonnay are full siblings (not step siblings or cousins) because they both have the same 2 parents. Pinot noir is the father of both and Gouais Blanc is the mother of both. But, just like human full siblings, having the same 2 parents doesn’t make them identical to each other.
They did! Pinot noir and Gouais Blanc had at least 20 children (that we know of). Chardonnay seems to be the favorite. (Besides Aligote, other offspring of those 2 parents include Gamay, Melon, Auxerrois, Romorantin, and other increasingly obscure varieties.)
I should have written “from a bit of bottle age,” but apart from that, I stand by it. Good enough for any night of the week, good enough for a nicely-done roast chicken.
