I recently got together with some others at Peking Duck House, NYC to compare blind some aged Bordeaux and Cabs. We had three flights all blind and I did my best to pair the French wine with the American.
Flight One
1983 Diamond Creek Cabernet: Candied fruit and very much still alive
1985 Cos D’Estournel: Rather bland and muted in flavor, mustiness and then smoke arose. Took a bit of time to open up but it really just seemed tired
Flight two
1997 Heitz martha’s: Great fruit and chocholate flavors. My favorite of the flight
1991 Heitz Martha’s: decent fruit but then fell a little, not impressed
1990 Ch LaGrange: good fruit and nice balance with the tannins, decent but needed more time to open up
flight three
1998 Andrew Will Ciel Du Cheval: Great fruit and very nice when poopped and poured
1996 Pavie Macquin: Another great balance, took some to time to come around. Needed to decant and has plenty of life ahead of it.
1999 Renaissance Cabernet: Not impressed
Two additional wines that we poured were the 2005 Ch Greysac and a 1997 DeLille. The Greysac was downright bad, perhaps an off bottle, the DeLille was much better.
I was more impressed with the 1983 Diamond Creek and Martha’s. The Bordeaux with the exception of the Cos needed more time to come around while the Cali Cabs were great upon popping and pouring
I’d wish you had just slightly more controls like vintage (age), types (left bank, right bank), or contrasts (blends vs. pure cabs), but a good job nonetheless.
My take over the years is that I prefer Cali Cabs in the 5-15 year window and Bord in the 15> window. I find the aromatic complexity of aged Bords hard to beat, but I have no data points for Cali Cabs over 20 years so my experience has a hole. I do not think that Cali Cabs change as much as Bords do during the aging process, but my data is incomplete.
Now, if someone wants to educate me with some older Cabs…I am all for it