Advice Sought: Wineries to Visit in Champagne, Burgundy, and N. Rhone (+ general advice)

My wife and I are going to France for the first time in early April for a little wine and food road trip and would really appreciate any recommendations and/or advice you may have. We’re thinking of doing 3 nights in Champagne (Reims + Avize), 2 nights in Burgundy (Beaune), and 3 nights in N. Rhone (Vienne/Tain L’Hermitage).

We’ll have a car, but probably want a driver for most tastings. Are Ubers/taxis reliable in any of these places or do we need to hire a driver for the day?

How far in advance can/should we book tastings/visits?

I would also really appreciate any recommendations for great tastings/visits, especially as I know producers of great wine don’t always offer great tastings. Ideally, we’d visit smaller producers who make great wine, with a bonus if the wine is hard to get in the USA (because of actual availability and/or price).

We’re not spending much time in Burgundy since I hear it’s hard to arrange good tastings there, but if anyone has any tips or suggestions, I’m all ears.

Also, our favorite N. Rhone AOC is Cornas, but it looks like all the producers we like don’t have any websites or emails listed, just phone numbers. What’s the best way, if any, for an English speaker to try to arrange visits with these growers/producers?

Thank you!

I think bill nanson still does producer tours in burgundy and he has quite a lot of access.

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J, in the past couple years my wife (or as I call her, “my ex-girlfriend”) and I have done a day trip to Champagne and a day-plus-a-little trip in southern and northern Rhone. Here’s a post I did about the Rhone stops from September of this year that may (or may not) be helpful: Chateauneuf du Pape and Hermitage - pit stops during my recent vacation

I would HIGHLY recommend going to the top of Hermitage hill and visiting the chapel, maybe walk through a row of vines or two. Such a highlight that we both still talk about and unlikely to repeat. If you want to get a view of the hill itself, then obviously go across the way like I mention in that above post.

As for Champagne we did a day trip from Paris so we took the fast train over and back, and we booked a driver for the day. Here’s their website: Sparkling Tour - Half or Full Day Champagne Tours - Oenotourisme Reims
Normally they take you to producers that they have lined up (no big houses, usually) and maybe a lunch stop or whatever. We booked a full day private tour, and Valentin was incredibly easy to talk to and alter plans. For example we had already booked a visit to Taittinger as we wanted to see both big and small producers, and we also had booked a nice lunch in Epernay, so I asked him to accommodate those bookings and to fill in with what he suggested around them, and he did a great job.

I don’t know if this much detail is helpful or overkill but here’s the (sort of) brief version of our day: they picked us up at the train station in Reims, took us straight to Taittinger. After that they had arranged a visit for us with Champagne Devavry in Champillon. Small producer (the owner was walking around and said hello to us) and we got to try almost the whole line up. Next he drove us to Epernay for lunch at La Grillade Gourmande, and I HIGHLY recommend this place. They have a wood fired grill and it was booked full with locals; solid wine list; just incredibly cozy on a cold day when we were there. After lunch he run us by Mercier to just view some of their wares we could easily see and talk about, no tasting. Then he took us to Voirin-Jumel, another small producer in Cotes des Blancs in Cramant. Tasted a bunch, got to walk their vines a little bit, again one of the family owners was there to chat us up a bit. After that we went by Hautvillers to see Dom Perignon’s grave and talk a bit about the history. After that we had a little more time before we needed to catch our train so he asked us what we wanted to do, and I suggested another tasting, he made a quick call, and soon we pulled up to Michel Fagot where we had a nice run through of their offerings, including a mini vertical of vintages. We liked all three of the small producers they took us to and still drink them to this day. Everybody’s tastes are different but it was well worth the money to book a private tour for the whole day with Sparkling Tour. The car was a small van and our guide Christophe was incredibly charming, helpful, flexible, knowledgeable, everything we wanted in a guide.

As for ubers generally, I would say they are not terribly reliable in lots of these places. If you stayed in Reims then you’d be fine; Epernay I would be hesitant about; and the smaller villages just assume you can’t do it. As for the Rhone, I think again it depends: if you stay in the big cities like Avignon then sure, but Tain or wherever, I wouldn’t rely on it.

Hard to give you a really experienced guideline, but I’d say you want to have your bookings (tours, visits, restaurants) at least 30 days out. Again that’s just my feeling and not based on a huge sample size.

I would have loved going even deeper, staying longer, and so on, but we both still really loved these trips even as brief as they were. Feel free to follow up with any questions, I’m happy to try to help. Bon voyage!

Thanks, this looks promising.

Thank you very much fornthe detailed response!

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Sure thing. If you haven’t read this thread from some number of years back, I would recommend it: Northern Rhone Tour: Clusel-Roch, Jamet, Perret, Gonon, Sorrel, Cave de Tain, Clape, Allemand

I’m sure a lot of the particulars are outdated by now but could give you some ideas and maybe a peak into places that folks like you and I can’t get into. It’s where I got the idea to stop by the Tain coop, and that paid off for us. As for places with just a phone number, I’m told many of producers like that are happy to arrange visits…if you call but will in fact need to be able to speak French. Now maybe if you hire a local guide for a day, they could arrange it on your behalf? But that’s just a guess. Best of luck and let us know how the trip goes once you get back

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Thanks. I hadn’t seen that trip report, but it’s fantastic.

Happy Thanksgiving. I’m headed to the Rhone next summer and was wondering if you may have an email contact address for Jamet, Clape, and/or Allemand. I’d love to try and make appointments. Thank you in advance!

Check out my trip report here April 2024 France (Champagne, Burgundy, N. Rhone) Trip Report - WINE TALK - WineBerserkers . The third paragraph in the 1st post says how I found email addresses.

Reims is a nice place to base yourself, and has the deep Crayeres as a draw. Took the TGV directly from the airport and started our trip here. You’ll notice very narrow streets, so realize the town was not driver friendly - we saw three accidents in two days. We stayed at La Caserne Chanzy Hôtel, across the street from the Notre Dame Cathedral. Very nice place to stay - affiliated with Marriott though you’d be hard pressed to realize it, with a super breakfast buffet. The town is quite walkable and you’ll find very simple, good places to eat. Two that we enjoyed were Le Tablier and Le Chamois. You can take your pick of several major champagne house to visit/taste in town, and all of them offer the underground Crayeres tours. We had a great tour at Vueve Cliquot.

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I don’t have any contact info for them, sorry. However if/when you do, I have found a lot of wineries in France to be welcoming if you reach out to make an appointment. Some may require French language skills, FYI. Good luck and safe travels