A Visit to Emidio Pepe in Abruzzo

As promised, I put together a little report on our vist to Emidio Pepe as part of our trip to Italy a couple weeks back. It wasn’t a wine trip- after a couple of years of dropping hints, my family agreed to do a Pepe visit on a Rome-Venice-Lake Garda-trip. And now they all can’t wait to go back to Pepe. The visit exceeded expectations. Like, it didn’t just go to 11, but all the way to 12.

The agriturismo is one of the three main structures along with the aging cellar and vinification/concrete tank room. Wish I had more pics of the rooms and lobby/terraces- it’s a really lovely bed and breakfast with modern amenities. I have a ton of pics, here’s a few- my daughter is working on a vlog of the trip-I’ll post that at some point.

We arrived around 2:30- After checking in I walked out on the patio and was able to chat with the man himself for a minute after Elisa brought him down to the gardens (he’s declined a good bit the past year, unfortunately, but not bad for 92!). We shook hands-exchanged buona sera and I proceeded to tell him how much his wines meant to me. He understood half of what I was saying, but he smiled and nodded, and then I let him enjoy his view.

I had reached out prior to our visit to arrange a tour of the vineyards earlier in the day. There is a separate cellar tour given to all hospitality and dinner guests that begins at 7:30 prior to dinner. We were fortunate to arrive and find that Elisa had cleared a couple hours to spend with us in the afternoon. We toured around various hillsides in the area to visit their 17 hectares of vines - in the “farm truck” as Elisa called it after numerous apologies for how dirty it was inside. “Remember, we’re farmers first,” she would say. Loved that.

I have a series of short videos- here’s Elisa describing the low density planting and pergola. This is in Branella vineyard- first vines Emidio harvested in 1964. Starting in 2020, the Branella and Casa Pepe vineyard designations are added to the MdA labels.

Branella




This is a new pergola-type system they are using to train some new Pecorino vines. Another five years or so they’ll know how it turned out.


The views from the agriturismo are just stunning. It’s a sleepy area- definitely farm country.
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Pro tip- it’s an easy 2.5 hour drive from Rome, but we figured, why not take a break for lunch on the beach along the way? We stopped in Guilianova (just pick a beach town) for lunch, and then it’s an easy 30 minutes up the hill from the beach to Pepe. Lunch at Novavita Beach Club. It was fine. They had Pepe on the list for $40, but considering that’s where we were headed- we had this little local number that was quite good with squid ink pasta and other seafood stuffs.


More to come…from cellar tour and dinner…

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After a brief respite of relaxing on the terraces- Elisa lead a cellar tour for the twelve or so guests and diners for the evening. You may have seen some pics of their smaller cellar pictured below. They produce 80,000 bottles per year and hold back 40,000 for ex-cellar releases in time. So, what’s pictured below is a fraction.


All the ex-cellar releases are decanted into new bottles and labeled (by grandmother! and others) prior to release.



Vinification Room




By hand, foot, and concrete. That’s it.

Dinner is a six course tasting menu with wines paired with each course. For $120 all-in. Crazy deal. And it’s not a glass of wine per course - it’s 2009 and 2005 Trebbiano are open now with this course- and your glasses get filled when they are empty- and so on…The wine flows freely and it becomes a bit of a party. According to Elisa, all the family members and staff in the agriturismo are under the age of 30- there is a fun, youthful, hipster vibe- like a crew that I would see working at restaurant in ATL. Even the 90s hiphop soundtrack.
Guiseppe Err manages the restaurant and is a big reason it becomes a bit of a party. Cool guy.

The food was excellent. I’m not going to go through every course. There was a beef tartare with mussles and a saffrom cream that was outstanding and cacio pepe with truffles and compressed lamb shoulder that was killer with the 2001 MdA.






The cellar tour and dinner was a pretty epic experience that started at 7:30 and didn’t end until after midnight.

What to say? It was an outstanding visit. I cannot wait to go back.
I’ll post some more odds and ends as time allows.
Cheers.

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incredible visit and posts!

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Also, I won’t put the family’s business out there with specifics, but you can buy direct from their cellars (which I did) at 40-50% off current US pricing-even the aged stuff (back to 2001). Crazy. Made me Wish I had rented a bigger car.

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This is incredible. It’s definitely been in my list but even more so now. Your IG posts have been killing me!

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I’m so glad the visit lived up to, and it sounds like, exceeded your expectations. Your posts were an absolute pleasure to read. :cheers:

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Being fortunate enough to be able to drink with you with some frequency, I’ll selfishly add that I wish you’d rented a bigger car as well. :grin:

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Great post. Great people. Great wine.

Do you know if Chiara and Elisa are sisters or cousins? They look a lot alike.

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:smiley: :stuck_out_tongue: :raised_hands:

Thanks, Ken. They are sisters. Daniela’s daughters. It’s all women in charge of winemaking and operations. Sofia, Daniela, Chiara and Elisa. The younger brother just graduated high school and is working in the kitchen this summer before starting university in the fall. It is truly a family operation.

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crazy to see the abv on the 91 and 84 trebbiano at 11.5 and 11.6 degrees!

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Great read. Thanks, looks awesome!

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Awesome post Dennis! Wonderful visit to a singular winery!

Tom

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Just digging through some photos from the evening. I post this pic with hesitation as the Burgundy guys will flame me for not capitalizing :stuck_out_tongue:.

Chiara recently expanded the dining room wine offerings beyond just Pepe wines, so wine geeks will be more inclined to hang out, order wines, etc. Makes sense. See below- Guiseppe shared this with me around midnight and we needed no more wine- and he would NOT sell me bottles to go. I tried.

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I like Beru but there is no way I am drinking Beru over Raveneau at basically the same price!

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mmm! Lardo :slightly_smiling_face:

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Awesome!

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@Dennis_Atick thank you for taking the time to write this! I’m now going to try and convince my wife to come to EP next year.

BTW, what is you IG account where we can follow along on your adventures?

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Added to the must visits! Great write up.

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Fantastic journalism!!

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