We visited Walla Walla again for the first time in 2 years this past weekend. Nothing comprehensive in terms of tasting, but we focused on new and different things, and found some new approaches that were fun and intriguing.
Dossier is a new effort funded by former Seahawks receiver Sidney Rice and a fellow named Tim Linehan. The wines are made by Billo Naravane of Rasa (he currently has 6 consulting projects going, though, and until this year made Delmas’ wines as well). We tasted through the wines out at the old Rasa space with GM Brandon Kubrock, who we’ve known since his days in the L’Ecole tasting room. We were somewhat expecting the usual oaky, fruit forward wines that tend to come out of the athlete/celebrity sponsored projects, especially when we learned how much oak they were using, but were almost shocked at how good the wines are. They are interestingly aiming to make wines that taste like Washington wines, not French copies. The winner for me was the Columbia Valley Syrah (the majority from red mountain, but a minority from the Rocks, which was whole clustered.) I prefer Northern Rhone style Syrahs in general, but this was nothing close to that, with a freshness and energy that were remarkable, and quite different from most of what you would find in WW. I thought the freshness might be from the whole cluster, but Brandon said it was from the oak. (These wines have seen a lot of oak–70% for the Syrah, 100% for the yet to be released Cab and the Bordeaux blend. But the oak is 4 year air dried, narrow grain, and I would have been challenged to call it blind). A winery to pay attention to, but beware, the wines aren’t cheap.
Our other two visits were not so much about the wine, but rather about their approach to tasting.
The first was Alton Wines, in a beautiful airy structure out south of town with gorgeous territorial views. When we arrived for our reservation we were met almost in the parking lot by co-owner Ashley Woodworth carrying four glasses of the starter wine. You get your own tasting space, a personalized tasting sheet, and basically your own personal owner or winemaker to hang out with for the duration. The staff pouring basically consists of the two owners, the winemaker, and one other person. The wines were perhaps not to die for but still very good. The whole thing has a bit of a fancy feel, a bit atypical for Walla Walla perhaps, but also perhaps the way things may be headed there. I enjoyed it a lot. Cost was $30 a head, refunded with purchase, well worth it.
The other stop was south of town as well at Caprio cellars. The interesting thing here is that every wine poured is matched with an accompanying chef prepared food. Apparently someones grandmother was from Italy, and this is a throwback to how things would have been done there. Portions are very small, but the food is excellent. Wines are made by a nearby winemaker, who’s identity is a not very well kept secret. Overall, a very interesting concept. Tasting is free.
Lastly, through our local friends, we were able to get a coveted reservation at Bar Bacetto in Waitsburg, 20 miles north of WW. This is an experience not to be missed. The food is just awesome, and it’s a really fun atmosphere. You do need a designated driver though, as it’s a long dark road on the way back.