A Jurançon, then Belle-Vue and Branaire 2016

Firstly a nice surprise:

Domaine Cauhapé - Tourbillon - Jurançon Sec 2022

Arresting nose of mangoes, white peaches and pineapple, with hay and sharp lemon at the end. In the mouth, quite similar - very bright, piercingly crisp fruit: pineapple and peaches at first, then a little lime and quince, before a bone dry finish that lingers on the palate. Refreshingly different. Incredible value at 7€. 91 pts?

One of my WOTY in 2024 was a more trendy Jurançon (at least in France): Camin Larredya. This is about four times cheaper, not quite so good, but really impressive at the price. The ABV is high - 14.5%, but the crispness and acidity make it completely unobtrusive. This address was trendy back in the 1980s but subsequent bottles were rather rustic and disappointing, so a great return to form.

Two for @Robert.A.Jr :smile: :

Château Belle-Vue - Haut-Médoc 2016

Dark cherries on the nose, with some smoky, spicy notes, then a typical 2016 mouthful of quite creamy dark cherries and blackcurrant, lithe and silky, the richness of the fruit neatly offset by the crisp acidity. The 20% Petit Verdot gives it some smoky plum and light blueberry midpalate - all very cool stuff, before a long, elegant finish. Quite high octane but the acidity steers it neatly away from any sense of lushness. Good stuff indeed. Probably the best Belle-Vue I’ve had. 92 pts

Château Branaire Ducru - St.Julien 2016

Very enticing blackberry notes at first, cigar box and something like peat smoke, a little Asian spice too, before a ripe, rich mouthful of the same, great texture and mouthfeel, silky and elegant, yet packing a punch midpalate, before a wonderfully long finish where the 2016 acidity keeps the richness effortlessly in check. Like the Belle-Vue, I’d say this is the best Branaire I’ve had. 94 pts and potential for more.

Tasting the two together made clear the difference in status, even if the Belle-Vue fared well. Obviously it cost four times less but that didn’t make the Branaire poor value - you get what you pay for. What I found impressive about both wines, and by the 2016 vintage in general, is how silky the tannins are. I think that this vintage showcases like no other before the progress that winemakers have made in Bordeaux. Tannins used to be obtrusive and harsh when the wines were young - or else you got gloopy muck like in 2009. In 2016, the wines have seamless tannins which hold the wines together but which do not denote from the pleasure in their youth. 1982 was radically different in taste and the tannins were probably a happy accident, but there is that early-drinking pleasure similarity.

So yes, another vote of confidence for Bordeaux 2016. It’s one of those rare vintages where you can’t go far wrong. I’ve had quite a few and the only one I really didn’t like was Labégorce, which was still in the 2009 groove. They’re simply better made than before.

We’ve had this discussion before - what terminology to use to describe today’s wines - nobody I think liked the term “post-modern”, which is however the most appropriate I can think of, unless you simply abandon the notion that “modern” wines refer to the Parker-era stuff, and simply call them what they are now: old-fashioned, which is not the same as “classic”. If you do that, then the term “modern” fits the new style perfectly. It’s not “classic”, it’s something new.

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Why not a “modern classic”?

Love that 2016 Branaire! Excellent notes, Julian!

Thanks - but, you did tell me it was good - and you were right! Yes, “modern classic”, why not? It’s not as if it actually matters - we know what we mean.

For its station Belle-Vue is pretty distinctive. Nice notes and thanks for posting.

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I generally think of myself as too old to buy Cru Classé Bordeaux, but I made an exception for the 2016 Branaire Ducru. What you say about the vintage helps me understand my reaction:

3/7/2020. Tasted at store. Lovely fruit, impeccable balance and above all suave. Could drink now; certainly will benefit from a few years, but not an unreasonable purchase for a 71 year-old.

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@Julian_Marshall, great to see a nice TN on a Jurancon Sec! What an incredible combination of fruit concentration, power, and electric acidity. Hoping to see more Gros and Petit Manseng planted in warming regions around the world! And a reference to Larredya… I’ve been buying a case or so of Jean-Marc’s “Part Davant” (as well as smaller amounts of the La Virada, and later Costa Blanca) since 2016, and think of it as the reference standard for top quality wine of that category. Even if it’s the “Cadillac” of Jurancon, incredible QPR for just about all wines in the appellation. Cauhape has lacked a little bit of that power and concentration in my handful of experiences with their wines in the past, but overall they’re tough to beat for QPR alone given their prices. I’ll keep an eye out for their Tourbillon now!

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I think Bordeaux in general is accessible a lot earlier than before. 2016 is a great example of a vintage that gives pleasure after only a few years, but there are many others, which is fun for us more mature winos! The Bordelais are not completely stupid - they know that today’s consumers simply do not have the patience - or in most cases, the cellar - to patiently wait for another 2005 to finally deliver after 20 years - and quite right they are too. Waiting that long for a wine is ridiculous.

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I discovered Jurançons when I lived in Les Landes, in SW France, many years ago. I found them a little basic and lacking in finesse, so my first Camin Larredya, 30 years later, was a Road to Damascus moment! I found it amazingly good and I immediately stocked up. Subsequently I bought some Charles Hours which I had mixed results with - only one decent bottle after five rather clumsy, slightly oxidised ones. The Cauhapé is good stuff, especially at the price, and if you’re based in France Gaston, you may still find some in your local Intermarché!

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I wonder what the quality of Larredya was like 30-35 years ago? That’d probably be right around the time Jean-Marc was taking the reins (prematurely) of the family domaine. I’m sure the quality has improved greatly since then, and like you say, it obviously has for the whole appellation. Very cool to get to live in Landes - maybe just so-so wines (imho), but I hear there’s no better place for potatoes, goose fat and garlic! I’ve never lived in France, but would very much enjoy getting to do that someday, and certainly in the southwest. If I ever make it out to Landes, do you have any restaurant recs you’d send me toward?

My experiences with Clos Uroulat echo yours. I used to sell those through Martine’s Wines, and they were likely the first Jurancons I got my hands on. Some bottles very good, others showing oxidation. Maybe an inconsistent cork and/or bottling issue? At this point, I think I’ve had the privilege of drinking a fair amount of just about every Jurancon, Pacherenc and Irouleguy producer that makes it into the US. Portland, OR (where I’m based) has a surprisingly robust selection, thanks to a handful of excellent local distributors that direct import from the area. But for all of our niche selections here, we do lack the bigger producers like Cauhape and Plaimont that offer the best values on supermarket shelves all over Europe.