Firstly a nice surprise:
Domaine Cauhapé - Tourbillon - Jurançon Sec 2022
Arresting nose of mangoes, white peaches and pineapple, with hay and sharp lemon at the end. In the mouth, quite similar - very bright, piercingly crisp fruit: pineapple and peaches at first, then a little lime and quince, before a bone dry finish that lingers on the palate. Refreshingly different. Incredible value at 7€. 91 pts?
One of my WOTY in 2024 was a more trendy Jurançon (at least in France): Camin Larredya. This is about four times cheaper, not quite so good, but really impressive at the price. The ABV is high - 14.5%, but the crispness and acidity make it completely unobtrusive. This address was trendy back in the 1980s but subsequent bottles were rather rustic and disappointing, so a great return to form.
Two for @Robert.A.Jr
:
Château Belle-Vue - Haut-Médoc 2016
Dark cherries on the nose, with some smoky, spicy notes, then a typical 2016 mouthful of quite creamy dark cherries and blackcurrant, lithe and silky, the richness of the fruit neatly offset by the crisp acidity. The 20% Petit Verdot gives it some smoky plum and light blueberry midpalate - all very cool stuff, before a long, elegant finish. Quite high octane but the acidity steers it neatly away from any sense of lushness. Good stuff indeed. Probably the best Belle-Vue I’ve had. 92 pts
Château Branaire Ducru - St.Julien 2016
Very enticing blackberry notes at first, cigar box and something like peat smoke, a little Asian spice too, before a ripe, rich mouthful of the same, great texture and mouthfeel, silky and elegant, yet packing a punch midpalate, before a wonderfully long finish where the 2016 acidity keeps the richness effortlessly in check. Like the Belle-Vue, I’d say this is the best Branaire I’ve had. 94 pts and potential for more.
Tasting the two together made clear the difference in status, even if the Belle-Vue fared well. Obviously it cost four times less but that didn’t make the Branaire poor value - you get what you pay for. What I found impressive about both wines, and by the 2016 vintage in general, is how silky the tannins are. I think that this vintage showcases like no other before the progress that winemakers have made in Bordeaux. Tannins used to be obtrusive and harsh when the wines were young - or else you got gloopy muck like in 2009. In 2016, the wines have seamless tannins which hold the wines together but which do not denote from the pleasure in their youth. 1982 was radically different in taste and the tannins were probably a happy accident, but there is that early-drinking pleasure similarity.
So yes, another vote of confidence for Bordeaux 2016. It’s one of those rare vintages where you can’t go far wrong. I’ve had quite a few and the only one I really didn’t like was Labégorce, which was still in the 2009 groove. They’re simply better made than before.
We’ve had this discussion before - what terminology to use to describe today’s wines - nobody I think liked the term “post-modern”, which is however the most appropriate I can think of, unless you simply abandon the notion that “modern” wines refer to the Parker-era stuff, and simply call them what they are now: old-fashioned, which is not the same as “classic”. If you do that, then the term “modern” fits the new style perfectly. It’s not “classic”, it’s something new.