2021 Bodega Mendel Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza, “Finca de los Andes” ($23.99, 14.5%). The black purple core stays this side of opacity, the rims a dried blood red, spotless, arguably looks a little older than it is. Nose comes off high-toned, cedar, older barrel vanillin oak, toffee, the red currant, blackberry scents brisk, lifts but doesn’t seem to go anywhere. Medium-bodied if not lighter, the level of tannin and acidity are rightsized. The fruit pared down to basics, not lacking. Tobacco to tea leaf, cedar, the herbaceousness stays low. A little minerally prickle. This is the kind of wine I keep hoping will be the diamond in the rough, punch above its weight, and fill the under $30 Cabernet itch. The pieces are there but they don’t cohere into something greater. (Composite Cork: Diam10)
2001 F.X. Pichler Riesling, Wachau, Dürnsteiner Kellerberg, Smaragd ($91.99, 13.5%). Quite dark amber orange color, on the dull side, about as fully matured visually as one might expect. The nose lays its cornerstone in oil slick smoke and damp minerals, white grapefruit to range marmalade accents, apricot paste and sage, basil, pie dough, there’s a good bit going on but really only for someone who is into a wine of this ilk with serious age on it. Full-bodied, opens nicely with time and air. The acidity is good but not in a position to carve up the flesh. Energetic pineapple and grapefruit flavors balance out the dried apricots and peaches. It’s taken steps down the road to oxidation yet, to my palate, it’s still in the “it’s a plus” place. Completely tangy and tingly through the finish. Probably peaked about 5-6 years ago.
2024 Tement Sauvignon Blanc, Südsteiermark, “Kalk & Kreide” ($21.99, 12.5%). White-yellow straw color, beautiful surface shine but otherwise unremarkable. Pungent nose if like a balloon, I guess the olfactory correlate of the “hollow mid-palate,” white citrus, minerals, pineapple, green apple, peach scents, smokiness than doesn’t push it too far, the dissolve ratchets up the citrus. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied, if, the acidity lunges holding a serrated edged knife. So right off the bat there’s a hard time adjusting. Abundant sour tropical fruit and citrus. Smoky minerality. No greenness. Then goes way dilute towards the finish. No bad, like wow, that was bad. But I was so enamored with the 2023 version that this is particularly deflating. (Glass Stopper)
2015 Sandlands Carignan, California regional blend ($28.00, 13.4%). Still some vibrancy in the purple core, the rims dulling with an incipient bricking. Nose getting plummy with hint of prune, blueberry jam, wool, lavender, thick presence, actually gets funkier with air instead of the more usual other way around. Getting close to full-bodied, the storyline same as the nose. Not tannic but clumpy enough to feel that way. Still, the berryish fruit more lively here (and sour) so there is movement. Leather, potpourri, milder smokiness. Grip weakens at the finish. Previous bottle August 2024 was head and shoulders above this one, assume on the old downward slope. Still, plenty drinkable. Grapes sourced 50% Lodi, 50% Contra Costa County.
2002 Etude Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($89.99, 14.6%). Lightly filmy, the purple core has no saturation and won’t be purple for long, heavily bricking rims. Smoky, reductive nose, flattening flatulence so keep swirling, cedar and sandalwood, the oak toasted enough to not be obtrusive, the fruit still plum rather than prune, the olfactory sense is not pleased. Medium-bodied, dry in texture although the tannin feels like a flattened piece of veal. The fruit is on the path to getting shot, falters through the mid-palate. More incense and cedar, Indian spices, graphite. It’s cleaner here, granted what is taste without the olfactory sense. Dunno, some sips I think, okay this isn’t that bad, other sips I think, is it too late to open another bottle?
2023 Extradimensional Wine Co. Yeah! Pinot Noir, Monterey County, Chalone, Brosseau Vineyard ($65.00, 12.0%). Light violet, more a dark plum flesh red, full to the rims, transparent, shiny, looks right out of the chute. The nose penetrates deeply, threw me back some, hard candy strawberry, raspberry, cola, orange pekoe tea, witch hazel, lot going on and all I can do is play ketchup. Medium-bodied, compact rather than unyielding. Seems evenly supported by tannin and acidity. The fruit very much woven in and not prominent. Tart with a minerally edge and brine. White grapefruit and clove with more air. Tapers off with intention at the end, no loose ends. Part of me wants to think a few hours in a decanter would serve it well. Temper the harder contours. (Composite Cork: Diam10)
2019 Sandlands California regional blend, “White Table Wine” ($24.00, 12.5%). Well layered gold color, loads of shine, very good glass presence. Raw dough, vanilla bean, graham cracker flow through the nose, solid orange juice note, semi-waxy, the apricot, persimmon, pear fruit attractive, not looking for attention. Full-bodied, loses quite a bit of weight nearing the finish line. Acidity average, can’t cut the flesh. Same doughy, leesy aspect that isn’t oaky per se but has the same taste impact. Honey, more sweet orange to tangerine citrus. Ginger spice. When warmer does a better job of soaking into the palate. Nice enough I guess. 63% Chenin Blanc (Lodi), 37% Sémillon (Napa Valley).
2023 Orr Wines Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Leland Vineyard ($40.00, 14.4%). Vibrant ruby-violet hue, not that saturated, unblemished and fully clear. Tight and bright raspberry, pomegranate, cherry fruit activates the nose, floral mist laid on top, feels full in the nostrils, vanilla bean, licorice, and ginger, leaves a lingering tingle behind. I’d call it full-bodied, sappy and clings well. The fruit is jammy with a hard candy aspect. Cola, licorice accompany most, minor citrus. Not getting tannin, acidity average, not of a mind to restrain the plumpness. The tarter finish and aftertaste welcome. Very good, to me it’s too big for casual sipping. (Composite Cork: Diam5)
2023 Weis Vineyards Riesling, Finger Lakes, “Estate” ($34.99, 12.0%). Brilliant shine masks the overall paleness of hue, white to green hay, layered enough to distort. The nose puts in overtime to penetrate with overall roundness allowing it just so far, lots and lots of rubber before pear, apple, peach fruit, honey, blood orange and subtler minerality hit the set. Full-bodied, broad and sweeping with muscularity to spare. The dryness does not push it too far, acidity feels mostly natural. The orchard fruit gets infused by pineapple and papaya. hard turn to slate, stone rather than citrus or anything suggesting softer flavors. Seems to strive for a “regal bearing” and there is much to admire. With this in mind I think I respect it more than like it. (Screwcap)
2023 Weis Vineyards Gewürztraminer, Finger Lakes ($22.99, 12.5%). Shine buffs up an otherwise dark golden color, solid block looking below the surface. Restrained nose of tangerine, pear, melon and rosewater, the litchee certainly there but not dominant, stays compact even nearing room temperature. Medium-bodied, has a sort of gritty texture and it starts to spread across the tongue but doesn’t get far. Not heavy, just a slow grind to a halt. Acidity seems to be where it “should” for the grape variety if not better. Same array with the citrus hogging more of the spotlight. Dry tacky sensation through the finish. The first few sips were not impressive but it did grow on me over time. I was able, however, to have it surgically removed at a later date. (Screwcap)
2024 Domaine des Cassagnoles Gros Manseng, Southwest France, Côtes de Gascogne, “Cuvée Gros Manseng Reserve Selection” ($12.99, 12.5%). Glistening straw gold, transparent, loses most of its color approaching the rims. Wiry nose of severe grapefruit as well as pineapple, green apple, and mango, dusty minerality, crushed white stone, just intense. Medium-bodied, sets itself firmly on the palate. The acidity whips around like a banshee. A pervasive sourness in the tropical fruit keeps the cheeks puckering and the tongue licking. Citrus broadens from white grapefruit into lemon and lime. Leaves you eyes wide awake (albeit I get some might find the wine “shrill”). Since I first tasted the 2004 vintage it has been a screaming value. (Screwcap)
2024 La Pépière Melon de Bourgogne, Loire, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie, “La Pépie” ($13.99, 11.0%). Semi-dull, imbued with a darker yellow hue, rims don’t tilt empty nor full, pools more than shines. Nice saline to sea salt breeze aspect to the nose, crushed chalk and minerals, plenty of punch in the lemon citrus, quiet leesy quality, pinepple to peach scents sort of wander off. Close to full-bodied, very good acidity, puckeringly sour profile. That salty air and especially the grapefruit, lemon citrus benefit most. Smokier than minerally. The zestiness tilts the fruit to pineapple, nectarine, papaya, tropical tang. Very long. Comparable to the 2023, more biting and sour to my palate. Remains an excellent value. (Composite Cork: Diam2)
2024 La Pépière Melon de Bourgogne, Loire, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie, Briords, “Cuvée Vieilles Vignes” ($19.99, 11.5%). Dark gold, surface shines well enough, layers to distort vision below, visually does not tip any hand. At first a vague powdered sugar note appears in the nose, contoured but soft in spite, lemon curd, star fruit, pineapple, persimmon scents, seashells and oily smoke, overall it feels blunt thus not much lift. Full-bodied, the acidity lifts it up before its weight makes the acidity’s arms give way. Sufficient bite that the “plop” isn’t like a congealing jello. Licorice, white grapefruit, floral water. Same general array of fruit, doesn’t come across as all that ripe. But not underripe. Second year in a row I prefer the basic bottling (these served head-to-head). (Composite Cork: Diam5)
2024 Von Winning Sauvignon Blanc, Pflaz, II Trocken QbA AP #11 ($16.99, 12.0%). Lighter white straw color, pools into the glass and along with the shone very attractive. Broad pink grapefruit, lemon, lime citrus captures most of the nose, herbaceous, kumquat, pineapple, star fruit scents, semi-dusty nostril texture, smells a lot like New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Medium-bodied, firm palate traction, the acidity is strong but kind of clumpy and does not help things flow naturally. Can’t imagine more zest in the citrus unless it burnt your tongue. With that in mind there’s jalapeño notes and a good deal of general smokiness. I don’t mind a lot of the things here that sound unattractive to many others. I can say once I take this upstairs to my wife she will hate it (she hates NZ SB but loves Sancerre). (Screwcap: Stelvin)
2020 Praesidium Montepulciano, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, “Riserva” ($29.99, 14.0%). Inky, opaque purple core, reminds me of a glass of black coffee, super thin crimson rims. The nose definitely needs air to release the reductive funk, damp saddle leather, molten tar, charcoal, grilled meat gristle combine for an in-your-face experience, shifts slowly into licorice, rose petals, marjoram notes, the fruit maraschino cherry and plum/prune, it’s BIG. Medium-bodied, surprised by how slim (mer) it is based off the nose. Tannin enlivens rather than deadens. Blueberry, blackberry mixed in with that plum, thick not necessarily heavy. More tar and asphalt, lick that brownstone roof buddy. White grapefruit brightens the finish. Maybe not quite the 2019 but — if you like this style — it’s well worth the reasonable price. Me likey.
2022 Gabriëlskloof Syrah, South Africa, Coastal Region ($16.99, 14.0%). Lightly saturated purple to red magenta, not an unearthly glow, dark with flushed rims, average plus surface shine. The nose has the usual South African profile, minerally, volcanic, smoky, red dirt, whatever, the fruit is proportionate and a mix of red and black, decisive lift, more herbaceous over time, dovetails with expectations. Medium-bodied, pleasingly compact, not a lot of wasted movement. Fruit shades blacker, ripe not sugary. Smokiness gains and that colors the rest. I read the descriptor “pumice” recently and looked it up. I still have no idea what it means. But I think it might be tangentially related here. So, pumice. I dare you to say no. Strong finish. For the price no complaints here. (Composite Cork: Diam (no number))
2019 Dominio del Águila Ribera del Duero, “Reserva” ($82.99, 14.0%). Heavily saturated and opaque purple core, plum red rims. Dense nose of cherry, blackberry fruit, gingerbread, floral musk, candied orange peel, nothing I can see to hint at place of origin. Full-bodied and heavy with minimal movement. Definitely on the dry side, the fruit is ripe yet grinds to a halt by the mid-palate. Same spice and flowers, nothing different showing up on the palate except clumpy tannin. Drank enough to finish the note. Majority Tempranillo, remainder Garnacha, Bobal, Albillo.