2016 Halcón Syrah, Mendocino County, Yorkville Highlands, “Alturas” ($32.00, 13.5%). Flat blackish purple to clay and rust red, clear and while the hue is flat surface has shine, looks about its age. I hesitate to call the nose “high-toned,” but it is close, plenty of white grapefruit, salt chunks, iodine, and crisp herbaceousness on display, fruit on the blue to black side, not a scene stealer, digs in stronger with air time. Medium-bodied and lean in being so, admirable directness. Acidity where it needs to be, not getting much tannin. Fruit still shading blue, trails off noticeably at the end. Otherwise, beef jerky, more iodine, cut grass, leather, tar, grapefruit, the array one seeks in any Syrah (extrapolating my tastes universally). Borderline sauvage. aught this at the right time, particularly considering the status of the fruit. 97% Syrah, 3% co-fermented Viognier. (Composite Cork)
2017 Harrington Syrah, Marin County, McEvoy Ranch ($35.00, 13.2%). While more or less blackish, the clarity is also on display, fades into very broad crimson rims, has visual vigor and arguably looks younger than its age. The nose is lean and focused, asphalt and tar, pressed flowers, grapefruit zest, cherry, red berry paste, there’s a sinewy tingle to it in the nostrils, crackles. Approaching full-bodied, certainly layered, a real palate stainer. The fruit toothsome and in danger of trailing off. That noted, the tar element is far and away the dominant factor. Almost to the exclusion of all else. Which in turn makes it super smoky. The grapefruit muscles in now and then. Black olives. More than enough acidity to get by. Pungent inner mouth perfume. This is the real deal. If you grow Syrah in California the question is why don’t you source grapes from here.
2018 Harrington Pinot Noir, Monterey County, Chock Rock Vineyard. Clean and transparent, starting to show some age, purple washing out of the core, decent amount of garnet brightness further out, shiny. Accessible nose of raspberry, strawberry hard candy, lavender and witch hazel, solid scrubbing sensations yet not as openly knit as on release, more floral than citrusy, air teases out some cola notes. Medium to full-bodied, weight consistent start to finish and pacing steady. The cherry red and blue berry fruit have settled back into an “enjoy the ride” place, sappy at moments. Orange peel, anise and garden herbs. Acidity is mild mannered. Loved this as “mmm, mmm, good” experience on release and this more or less duplicates that. More or less validating that it was what it was (and is) and take it at face value. (Composite Cork)
2008 Morlet Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Oakville, Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard, “Couer de Vallée” ($175.00, 15.2%). Impenetrably black purple, very thin crimson, rust rims, can’t say it looks old nor young, just impenetrable. Nose of blackberry jam and cassis, toasted coconut and crème brûlée, and menthol, although a major component the oak isn’t oppressive, outside of a little cigar wrapper not discerning any tertiary development. Full-bodied yet with a noticeable loss of heft in the mid-palate. No acidity, minimal tannin at best and that wood. The fruit is more sweet than juicy, stops short of prune. More caramel popcorn than toastiness. Minty finish. Consistent from first glass to last. I’ve only had a small sample of Morlet wines and this tracks. Impressively smooth and polished without any marker of place of origin. 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Cabernet Franc.
1997 Seavey Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($64.00, table wine no ABV). The core is close to an opaque black-purple, clarity found at the heavily bricking rims, definitely looks its age. There’s balsamic and camphor notes to the nose, makes you think more savory than sweet, mentholated lift, the fruit now plum and cherry compote yet without a dried fruit quality, air didn’t change anything. Medium-bodied and feels like it lost weight, needs a belt to keep the pants up. Echoes of tannin but to me the acidity is an eyebrow raiser and brings a tartness to the whole show. Black fruits fresher here but short. Still has the balsamic pucker thing. However, leather and old cedar takes the lead. Pretty much pushing this to the breaking point. Good for conjuring up memories.
2018 Bedrock Cabernet Pfeffer, San Benito County, Lime Kiln Valley, Enz Vineyard ($48.00, 14.5%). Clarity is fine, purple core washing out, broad brick rims, looks fairly advanced. Nose of cherry liqueur, violet pastilles, and cocoa powder, an initial herbaceous streak fades quickly, to me marked by the lack of pepper presence, thick nostril feel overall. More or less full-bodied and sappy, a real palate clinger. Residual tannin just that. Somewhat tarry. Sweet cherry, red berry fruit, lasts fully through the finish. Sort of wishing a peppery kick into being at the end too. Lack of complexity disappointing and suspect a couple of years past peak. Very limited sample set with Cabernet Pfeffer suggests early consumption to take full advantage of youthful energy.
2023 Domaine des Aubuisières Chenin Blanc, Loire, Vouvray, “Cuvée de Silex” ($19.99, 11.5%). Bright gold yet with a mild gauziness, looks “happy” in the glass. Pleasing focus to the nose, lemon zest and chalk, subtler minerality, green apple, pineapple, melon fruit scents, now and then get some oily notes, really like the brisk pacing. Medium to full-bodied, holds its weight fully through the finish. Acidity offers a broad sweeping cut so it is never too fleshy. Fruit much more tropical here, the lemon and white grapefruit citrus takes another step up. That oiliness more consistent, smoky. I’d consider this demi-sec level. I pounded this like nobody’s business and going back for more. (Composite Cork: Diam3)
2024 Fabrice Gasnier Cabernet Franc, Loire, Chinon, “Le Clos de la Cure” ($19.99, 12.0%). While the golden hue is faint it supplements this with a warm glow, more solid than shiny. The nose shows muscle, smoke and wet gravel, taut apricot, apple, pear fruit alongside a quieter white grapefruit touch, more floral as it warms and the whole package benefits from warming. Pushing full-bodied, acidity pulls it back from the edge. Getting more pineapple, passion fruit than peach, plenty of tangerine to lime citrus. Stone smoke falls a few steps back. Sufficient juiciness in the fruit that the overall effect is not drying. Mild herbaceous twist. Nicely square shouldered finish, persists. Not going to melt your mind with complexity but I’d buy again without hesitation.
2022 Lamé Delisle Boucard Cabernet Franc, Loire, Bourgueil, “Vieilles Vignes” ($15.99, 13.5%). Purple core has depth while displaying clarity, broad garnet rims, happily vibrant. The nose is majority bell pepper so be forewarned, this is that kind of Cabernet Franc, minerally earth, pressed flowers, generally reddish fruit scents, stretches much more than soaks. Light-bodied plus, tannin works away in the background while the acidity does the grunt work. Sappy fruit, particularly through the attack, tapers off to a cruise altitude. Air does moderate the bell pepper, err, moderately. Air makes the texture drier and more chewy. Tough little sucker, easy to bucket it as a bistro vin de garde. Something I don’t stumble upon very often these days. But don’t confront me with my failures. (Synthetic Cork: Nomacorc Reserva)
2023 Henri Bourgeois Sauvignon Blanc, Loire, Pouilly-Fumé ($23.99, 13.0%). Trim, pure yellow gold with a fine shine to it, mild distortion otherwise transparent. Plenty smoky nose with a solid haymaker of white grapefruit, not much fruit getting through and what does is lean, edgy, and tropical, wiry presence with very good lift and staying power. Light to medium-bodied, here it has an unexpected wateriness to it. Acidity is respectable enough, nothing special. Pineapple, apricot, nectarine fruit, starts off well then trails off. Pink grapefruit to lime, sweeter than suggested by the nose. Kind of “tale of two cities,” nose and palate. In the end it’s alright, just.
2011 Bernhard Huber Spätburgunder, Germany, Baden, Schlossberg Hecklinger, “R” [Reserve] AP #23 (13.0%). While transparent the general coloration is dark, crimson to rust red, core slightly darker, clean. Pronounced smokiness to the nose, tarry, rubber like a peel out on asphalt, the cherry fruit liqueur like intensity, real slugger. Full-bodied and bottom-heavy, not discerning much, if any, acidity for structure, any tannin shaved away by time. The cherry, red berry fruit starts off juicy before losing grip through the mid-palate, thus even drier finish. The tar and rubber still in the driver’s seat. Much more white grapefruit presence. Spicy aftertaste. Not familiar enough with the producer to make any real pronouncement. Probably better when the fruit had more bounce to it, the wine lighter on its feet.
2023 Bruna Grimaldi Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Nebbiolo d’Alba, “Bonurei” ($26.99, 14.5%). Bright and vibrant ruby-magenta color, decent strength at the rims, perfectly transparent. The nose is wound tightly but not in a closed way, has an oddly herbaceous streak, twiggy, the candied cherry scents not really tugging it back into balance, tea leaf, air does help, this suggests a backward wine. Light to medium-bodied, here there’s ample tannin but it is soft enough to be easily approachable. Cherry takes on a strong berryish cast. Tar and more tea leaf. Truncated, dry finish. Like the general chewiness, however, would appreciate more give around the middle. Possesses appeal among its closest cohort.(Synthetic Cork: Nomacorc Reserva)
2023 Oltretorrente Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi ($12.99, 14.0%). Effulgently glowing violet to ruby, plenty of youthful bounce and shine, could be a barrel sample. Initial flatulence to the nose gives up ground to tilled black earth, tar, and a modicum of mixed red and black fruit, nothing clearly distinguishable, never fully shakes the funk. Medium-bodied, acidity creates turbulence and it never feels settled down on the palate. Tar, merde, minerally black earth, it’s not natty but by the same token it’s not clean. Sour cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit, twists and turns. Energetic and if you don’t mind things rough around the edges a very good value. Approximately 90% Barbera, 10% Dolcetto, small amounts of Croatina, Freisa, Slarina, Brachetto, and Aleatico interplanted. (Composite cork with FOR 51 designation)
2024 Tiberio Trebbiano, Abruzzi, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo ($17.99, 12.5%). Moderately dark worn gold hue, modest shine, color persists into the rim, looks “sturdy.” The nose is more tight than coiled, orange pith, sauna smoke, angular pineapple, passion fruit, feels like there’s a lot more going on than what I can find in terms of distinct scents. Close to full-bodied, dulling sensation across the palate. Acidity shows good cut and powers through to the finish. Quite citrusy. About even mix of orchard and sour tropical fruit, both ripe and not all that sweet. Any more terroir driven aspects taking a back seat. Loses flavor intensity at the end. After the superb 2022 the 2023 and this seem lacking.
2021 Luis Seabra Castelão, Douro Valley, “Mono C” ($81.99, 13.0%). Flat purple to garnet, bit lifeless, spotless though, visually ehh. Lively, spicy nose, barnyard underpinning, tangy, crisp red berry scents, white citrus, pleasing focus, more floral as it opens, red berry fruit, all this enough to cloak the funk. Light to medium-bodied, angular in a good way, vibrant attack and then it just echoes nearing the finish. Acidity kicks some butt, moves from fresh to rugged. Fruit goes red but then more bluish. Much more snap then flavor. Kind of gravel, clay, twiggy underpinning. At the end of the day on the fence about it. Enjoy it well enough. But the price, uhh, the price only makes sense if you took a looooot more ecstasy than you should have.
